I have a 2010 XC60. Many times I will insert the key fob and push start and nothing happens. I will remove the key fob and reinsert and sometimes I have to do this several to many many times before it will start. I have tried cleaning the fob with no better results. Sometimes it fires on the first try. Any similar situations? Any suggestions?

 

I have this same problem on my 2010 XC60. Stick the key fob in - nothing. The problem began intermittently (once a month) at around 140k miles. It now does it every day and I have 190k on it. Typically it would eventually start after 5 min. The last two months - it is consistently a 30-45 minute wait and then it starts. I have spent years dealing with this - looking at this message board - flipping the key, new batteries, shaking the key, lock/unlock 1000s of times, open doors, open trunk, activate the security system via key fob, use the valet key, and still no answers. For awhile if we didn't lock it - it would start when we got back in the car. That lasted a few months and then that trick didn't work either. Lately we have started leaving the key under the mat - car unlocked (I know, but who really wants to steal a 10 year old Volvo)- and for now this has been working (starts up every time) which based upon this message board might be an RFID communication problem? Who knows. At this point it only gets driven to the grocery store due to its unreliability. Both keys produce the same result - no start - so I can't imagine it's the RFID in BOTH keys. A few years back the Volvo dealer had it for weeks on several different occasions and finally said they couldn't do anything if it doesn't give a fault code. Took it to a local shop specializing in Volvos and they said the usual suspects (battery, immobilizer, starter) all checked out and they started down a path of diagnosing something in the security system that is making it think I'm trying to steal it. Replaced two door actuators at $400 each and that didn't help. They agreed that without a fault code they would be wasting my money if they started pulling it apart. Both these shops will hide if they see me coming so I need to find another place to tell my sob story to. Love the car - no other issues - but this one stopped my string of buying Volvos. Good luck and post if you find someone who has any suggestions.

 

You have a bad/erratic Ignition switch - the slot you put the key in. Have replaced several to solve that problemn. Had one customer who insisted there was a magnetic field or something near their house - for that's the only place it would not start. A new ignition switch fixed it. Unfortunately a software download is required after installation to make the new switch talk to the car.

 

Thanks much! Will head down that path!

 

Presently my car is a Volvo for unrelated repairs. I did ask them to check the Fob issue but they could not duplicate the issue. A local shop said to test the car battery or replace it. I put it on my Optimiser overnight and charged the main battery to 110%. The problem has not come back,...yet. Weather permitting I will make the 200 mile trip to Salt Lake City (the closest Volvo Dealer to me) tomorrow and pick up my XC60. I will let you know if the issue returns. Hopefully it is just the main battery.

 

Thanks to member "Hoonk" for helping with this intermittent 5 year old problem that the dealer couldn't figure out. Took it to another Volvo dealer and told them about this forum and had them look at ignition switch. They checked it through VIDA and while the keys would be recognized, it wouldn't always register insertion into it. Ignition switch was replaced. Software reloaded/updated. Good to go!

 

I’m having the same problem. How did this go for you? Is the the problem solved?

 

I’m having kind of the same problem and hoping you could help me.
I had “low battery” message and fob buttons wouldn’t work, but car would start find. I removed battery cables to clean the terminals (of corrosion), then fob buttons started working, now car wouldn’t start!
Towed it to the shop and they fixed starting problem, though fob buttons stopped working again.
I disconnected battery terminals to check amps draw and now, again, fob keys work but “insert the key” message pops up and car wouldn’t star! Pretty frustrating!
Could you give me some insights? Appreciate it

Ps. I read somewhere that cleaning IAU contacts might do the trick. Any idea?

 

I would listen to HoonK's advice. CC above.

I've owned many cars with advanced key FOBs that contain RFID (for immobilization) and programmed electronics (for locking and unlocking the car, opening the lift gate, etc). These little devices are great when working, but the luxury comes at an expense when problems occur.

Without shooting the parts cannon at this problem, look at the obvious....the parts that touch human hands.... ie. wear and tear. As hoonk expressed, the Volvo ignition docks over time see wear and tear from the 100s to 1000s of times shoving the keys in and out of the dock.... this will cause malfunction. The key fobs themselves will fail over time, but are very durable if they avoid damage (e.g. getting wet). Same thing goes for the immobilizer.

When something is happening with the ignition in one of my cars, I go get my brand new set of keys out of the safe to rule out the key fob. If I can't reproduce the problem with the new set, then I know that the old key fob might need to be replaced. But if the new key fob causes the same problem, then I move to the ignition dock in these cars. Of course, I use a Volvo specific scanner to see if any DTCs appear associated with the immobilizer or ignition among other things.

IMHO, screwing around with the Keyfob beyond replacing the batteries, is a road to nowhere. I've seen it many times over the years with other people on the forums. People have tried all the tricks, but the reality is these keyfobs wear out and will have to be replaced and programmed to the car at the tune of around $400 or more depending on the complexity of your car.

 

Definitely I’ll follow Hoonk’s advise.

The thing is electrical devices shouldn’t just go bad on themselves unless exposed to moisture or excessive heat or cold or getting tampered with.

I agree that almost the only logical thing to do to fobs are battery replacement (and cleaning)

Will take it in next week to see how things are.

Thanks for your note anyways

 

I wish that were entirely true, but electronics can fail right off the factory line. Depends on the quality of components and tolerances of the companies that make them. And, electronics will fail over time from normal use. My father was a military trained electronics engineer. I learned a lot from shadowing his work. He retired as the southeast service manager for Matsusita and one thing I learned from him was nothing created by humans are eternal. That may sound deep and philosophical, but he's right. Everything has a service life. These keyfob have been tested to last a certain amount of time from daily use. There are extremes, but I've owned many P3 platform Volvos as well as the newest of Volvos and the keyfobs overall are designed pretty darn well. 10+ years and counting on the original fobs on my 2011 and 2012 Volvos. Fortunately, I haven't had to replace a single one on any of my Volvos.

Tell me more about your Volvo...

What year of XC60? Trim? Original owner? Are the keys original with the car? Have backup?

Cheers!

 

This 2011 XC60 would be my first Volvo. Second owner. Original fobs (both).

I’m an industrial designer and quite tech and mechanical savvy (Have designed/built complete dashboard, HUDs, A/C,….).
For the past two decades have had mainly SUVs and for half of it had bimmers. Hands down 🙌 they are the ultimate design and engineering machines on the road.

Anyway after driving sedans for a few years now, wanted to go back to SUV adventure 🙂. Checked several makes and models and found this one more acceptable based on my standards (look, power, built quality, accessories, cargo space, design logic, ….)
At first I was excited to find that it is as good as BMW, but soon realized….. meh, not so much….😐

Don’t get me wrong it is still a great car and I can’t wait to have it on the road again, but things like this will bring frustration.

 

Problem solved!

I put the process here, but a warning, it’s not for faint hearted folks! Lol

After a few weeks that car had sat there and a few more to wait to take it to the dealer ( yes, they actually gave me an appointment in five weeks!) I decided to try things.

Starting with ignition switch. Not so quick though. To be able to take ignition switch out, you’ll need to release its cable which is where? Right, behind the CD player! How to get there? Dismantle the whole central console! 🤯

Anyhow, ignition switch is out and yep, there is a broken part in it! ( as I was sure electronic stuff don’t just go bad on themselves. It’s always mechanical parts that face wear and tear)



Manually put the fob in different positions to make sure immoblizer is working properly. Yes, all was good. Car started, stopped, everything looks normal. 👏👍


Then it was time to fix it so took it home (disconnected the battery then the switch not to interfere with CEM)



It turned out one of the notches that lock the fob was broken so the system couldn’t pull in and lock the key correctly and it wouldn’t send proper signals from immoblizer and micro switches to CEM therefore it would immediately shout down everything.

All fixed, installed and voila!!! She starts like a charm, remote keys all work, everything back to what it should be.

To make the whole thing sweeter, while I was at it, I installed a display too. 🙂




It has some cool functionalities: back up camera, front camera, GPS, PVR, lane departure warning!, warning for approaching cars too fast!!! , and much more 😀 I was really impressed.

Next project: power lift gate

 

What display is that? I like it. Looks good.

 

Do you have any knowledge/tips & tricks on replacing the sunroof motor or the on cat converter/exhaust? (specifically replacing the catalytic converter that converts to the dual exhaust that was stolen from mine sometime between when I paid for the vehicle and when it was delivered to me 2 days later.) I have a 2010 XC60 T6 and its my first volvo. Only had it about a month but I've finished the work on my old vehicle and am ready to sell it and need the Volvo up and running properly before Im left a foot.
(or maybe you know someone else I should ask or a different thread to posy on?) Any help/advice/direction is GREATLY appreciated!

 

Check it out on the link below. I’ve custom fitted quite a few HUD. But was really impressed with this one.
lane departure warning, accident warning, and decent navigation system are only a few highlights of it.

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/330223...5-d458f673de17

 

Thanks for the tread. Is saves me a lot of $$$ (around $800 was the quote for replacing and re-programing start control unit module).
Just wanted to add some things that are in my case.
Symptoms were the same (problem with inserting, some wierd noises etc)
When I open the module initially everything looked normal but then I notice the the pins that holding the plastic sprockets were not parallel. See pictures, so I use pliers and straighten those out. This way the top sprocket was doing contact with the middle one (which was the problem). At the end I put some silicone grease. Generally easy fix. The hard part was to open the module and hardest was to open the top cover of the inner box. I don't know if I did it the right way but to open it I just pop it up, Interesting to put it back I just slide it in the slot. Not sure if to open you can just slide it out. Be careful though.
p.s. I find useful this video and when putting duct back i loosen the second duct as well

THanks again @Sean.z

 

currently mine is doing this as well, just curious what you paid to replace it and the reprogramming? Does anyone think it’s ok for a regular mechanic to work on the issue or only a Volvo dealership?