I am looking to restore a couple of cars. Both need a good paint job. Since money is an issue, I was wondering if you guys think this kit is all I really need to do a decent job.


https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-13726-17047.aspx (https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-13726-17047.aspx)

Probably if you know what your doing.

It looks cheap to me...the quality, not the price. For about $400, macco will do a half ass paint job.

Devilbiss make good kit. Do you have a compressor?

Check out Eastwood. They carry a full line of restoration 'tools'. Devilbiss is as Bill states, a very good brand. However, do not forget that you are going to need an air compressor that has some power to it along with a dryer for the condensation problem that you have in the air line. There is more to this than a spray gun. You can not "cheap out" on the primer! The paint is costly and the material to sand and prep the metal is also. I am not trying to discourage you but Colegate did make a salient point with the Maco observation.

r.

Devilbliss makes great guns. And that a very good price. They are good entry level guns. Make sure you have a good dryer on your compressor. A good paint job is all in the prep. Take your time. Use a single stage urethane. Cheaper than base coat / clear coat. But still very durable paint.

do you know how to do it yourself? great!!!
how would you know if you're using the right tool? what are it's description or criteria?

;)

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Asa veteran painter , i would (not for a sale) let the pros do it...By the time you buy clear coat($100 per gal and setup) paint ($100. per set up Depending on color)
sand paper (500 grit wet paper to 600 grit wet paper) 60 bucks per pack. Electric $? Water $? Heat $? Spot do use$? .....The kit to paint the car $150.00... Thinner$30.00 per gallon...Maybe a fine in the backyard(lol)? Welll all in all by the time you spend all the money to get ready A shop could do it for a price maybe around the price you want,....I never try to discourage anyone to try something but After practice i would take it on my self....One question i have is though what size tips are on the gun and do they come with regulators? When you are done with the guns , clean them right away to prevent not being able to use them again...Spray between 30 and 40 psi depending on mettalics or flat color. and make sure you do have the water seperator on the line off the compressor...Dont stop on panels spray the whole panel from top to bottom to prevent blow up (dirt getting in paint) tack each coat between flash times. When you clear the car I spray high pressure, spray what ever you feel comfortable with. I usually start with the roof and work my way down the pillars from side to side of the car. Hold the hose so it doesnt hit the car. Do one hlf of the hood to the other half then back and forth from side to side. Do NOT LET THE CLEAR DRY WHILE SPRAYING THE CAR IN FULL>>Let it flash after the car is covered in clear then apply the next coat..only two coats of clear are required to have a nice job.Any questions hit me up via email...I would be glad to walk u through the steps....Good luck..Sorry if I was beeting your ear..

ORIGINAL: eddie740t

Asa veteran painter , i would (not for a sale) let the pros do it...By the time you buy clear coat($100 per gal and setup) paint ($100. per set up Depending on color)
sand paper (500 grit wet paper to 600 grit wet paper) 60 bucks per pack. Electric $? Water $? Heat $? Spot do use$? .....The kit to paint the car $150.00... Thinner$30.00 per gallon...Maybe a fine in the backyard(lol)? Welll all in all by the time you spend all the money to get ready A shop could do it for a price maybe around the price you want,....I never try to discourage anyone to try something but After practice i would take it on my self....One question i have is though what size tips are on the gun and do they come with regulators? When you are done with the guns , clean them right away to prevent not being able to use them again...Spray between 30 and 40 psi depending on mettalics or flat color. and make sure you do have the water seperator on the line off the compressor...Dont stop on panels spray the whole panel from top to bottom to prevent blow up (dirt getting in paint) tack each coat between flash times. When you clear the car I spray high pressure, spray what ever you feel comfortable with. I usually start with the roof and work my way down the pillars from side to side of the car. Hold the hose so it doesnt hit the car. Do one hlf of the hood to the other half then back and forth from side to side. Do NOT LET THE CLEAR DRY WHILE SPRAYING THE CAR IN FULL>>Let it flash after the car is covered in clear then apply the next coat..only two coats of clear are required to have a nice job.Any questions hit me up via email...I would be glad to walk u through the steps....Good luck..Sorry if I was beeting your ear..


I agree. Not to discourage you, but I would certainly leave it up to a pro. I am fortunate enough to have a father-in-law who owns a body shop and plan to take my Volvo 850 to his place. It can certainly be an artform and a major project. I typcially help with the prep work, but let him do all the spraying, especially the clear coat. Good luck in whatever direction you decide to go.

~ Billy