These are Volvo instructions.
Remove
The oil dipstick and its pipe.
The splashguard under the engine.

Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Release the oil cooler from the sump.Hang up at the rear.
Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.


Removing the oil sump(oil pan)

Slacken off all screwsholding the oil sump.
Remove all screws except fro four.
It is reccommended that four screws in the corners of the sump are left in place
Carefully tap the sump with a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.
Remove the remaining screws.
Remove the sump.

Cleaning

Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil sump and cylinder block.
Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent P/N 1161440

Warning Use a fume hood or extractor when using gasket solvent.(Fan if inside a garage)

Installing the oil pan

Apply liquid gasket P/N 1161 059-9 to the sump use roller P/N 951 2767 (Or mini roller from hardware store)

Install new o-rings
The oil sump.
Secure it loosely with a few screws.
Then the remaining screws.


Press the pump against the transmission
Tighten the screws (1),(2),(3) and (4) to 3Nm.

First tighten the screws (5) to 25Nm.
Then tighten to 48 Nm.
Tighten all screws in the sump joint to 17 Nm.
Start at the transmisson and continue fowards in pairs.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.
Connect the oil cooler to the sump.
Use new o-rings.
Reinstall the pipe to the subframe.

Install
A new oil filter
The oil drain plug with a new o-ring
The dipstick and its pipe also use a new o-ring.


Note: check that all the o-rings are positions are correctly.

Fill the engine oil.
Run the engine to operating temp.
Check for oil leaks from the sump or the oil cooler.
Install the splash sheild under the engine.
Check the oil level.Top it off if needed.

Some more notes:
You may have to support the Right side of the engine and drop the subframe a little to get the pan out.

Have someone help you when installing the pan and watch the o-rings to make sure they do not fall while installing the pan.

Make sure when the pan is off you remove the pipe in the oil pan and replace those o-rings at the same time when you have it apart.

Also make sure you remove the oil pick up tube and replace that o-ring.

I think that is about all.
If there is anymore quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry I don't have the Part # fro the o-ring kit but the dealer sells it as a kit.

local://upfiles/853/968D4FEB84524FED86B912C3C79EDDA4.jpg

local://upfiles/853/B54D1B149AA249319A67F09256FDDED6.jpg

local://upfiles/853/ABE08D2052604477BFC77FA838E16FFE.jpg

How do I know if these need to be replaced? Do I just end up with a puddle of oil under my car or is there some other internal problem that I do no know about?

The oil presure will drop and the low oil pressure light will come on.

Hi,
Does anyone know what the Volvo stated time estimate is for these instructions? Don't they quote that in their service manuals? The dealer just tried to tell me it's a 10 hour job to pull the oil pan/replace the o-rings and the cost would be about $1,100. There is now way it could take 10 hours to follow the above instructions. Right? Also, I was told that about half of the time the oil pan itself has to be replaced (~$300) because of sludge build up in the baffles. Does this sound right?

I have a feeling that Volvo quoted time is in the neighborhood of 3 maybe 4 hours. I plan on having it out with the service manager over this. I could go somewhere else but the dealer is much more convienient.

I guess I could do this myself. How hard would this be if you only had two jack stands? I didn't really see a list of required tools so I'm guessing I have every thing I need accept oil filter, set of o-rings/gaskets, gasket solvent and of course oil.

Thanks, for any advice.

Does this oil-pan o-ring problem eventually happen to all 99 S80s or is it some kind of manufacturing problem on some S80s. Or does it happen at a perticular millege. My 99 S80 2.9 has 94K miles on it and just by reading that it cost over a $1,000 to fix it is starting to get me a little uneasy.

Well, it seems to me from reading this and other forums that 99 and 2000 S80s are particularly prone to this problem. It seems to boil down to just normal wear on the rings. For what's it worth, I called an independent Volvo only shop since my above post and they said they would do it for $416 plus parts (oil, filter, o-rings,) unless the oil pan needed to be replaced then that would be another $389. Still not sure what classifies the oil pan as needing to be replaced.

I don't have any time on it but I would say about 4 to 5 hours.

I have never had to replace an oil pan due to sludge.

The pick up tube Yes.

It could be done in one day at home with Jackstands.

The o-rings fail with the Age of the Car.

Thanks Tech, I appreciate the reply.

No problem let me know how you make out.

Hey Tech, one question about this.
If the car appears to leak just sitting in the garage, even a few days after being driven, would you think it most likely would be the oil sump leaking?

NO
The oil pan o-rings make a tapping noise in the engine. It doesn't leak outside.

So if its leaking there, must just be the pan gasket.
Would the turbo line, if leaking, continue to leak even for hours after the motor is off.

2 things will leak and drop from the oil pan.
Turbo return line o-ring or Vent box.

I would guess the turbo return line.
Yes it will drip hours after sitting.

Could also be a rear main seal.


Best would be to Clean the entire underneath of the engine and drive it a couple of miles Hard and then look at it again.

Ok, on the turbo seals, are these just simple o ring type seals and is there a procedure for these? Or do you just take apart what is needed until you have access.

They are easy remove the Clamp between the return pipe and the coolant pipe.
Then to 2 screws holding it to the turbo.
You might have to tweek the coolant pipe a little to get it out but very easy.

Another thing to look for is if your low oil pressure light is comeing on. Pull the dipstick out and see if it is covered with bubbles if it is then that means the oil is aireationg from leaking oil pan seals.

My S80T6 has 136K miles. Seems like this car would be a candidate for this procedure. Although no symptoms as of yet. Once I get it back from the dealer, guess what I shall be scheduling.

Thanks
mark L.n

Don't do this job! The instructions given here leaves out a bunch of things that make this job sound easy. For example, the lower brace connected underneath the pan must be removed (this is omited in instructions). The bolt holding the fuel line not only needs to come off, but so do the upper brackets as well holding the fuel line. The oil cooler cannot be just pushed back as instructed as there is NO slack for it to be pushed back (so it will sit there next to pan). Also in the instructions, it mentions you may have to support right side of engine to remove subframe. I see a frame, but no subframe. I don't need to leave four bolts in the pan before dropping because the pan isn't going anywhere! Mine is currently sitting there until i find a way to pull it out. The makers of this car made sure you cussed up a storm to pull the pan off. The way the pan is molded, there are protrusions off the pan that get in the way when you try to pull it out. There are also other lines that get in the way of you pulling it out. Also when i clicked the link to check out the kit # for the o-rings, i get a dead end. Volvo sells this kit for $17, part #30750783 and includes all the gaskets and o-rings you will need. You will need an anaroebic liquid gasket for the pan placement. Oh yeah, the oil filter uses a 3 1/4 socket type filter tool to remove. The makers of this car made sure you couldnt use anything else. Back to work i go...when the pan will come off...no one knows. I can't wait to try to put this pan back on when it's lined with pretty liquid gasket! Well worth the $400-$500 you will spend to fix this. If you have any questions before you try this job, shout it out. I can try to help make it easier for you.

Well, I called an independent volvo dealer and he said i MUST drop the subframe. In the instructions it say you MAY have to. There's no instructions as to how to drop the subframe though. So i loosened the two bolts up front and 3 in the rear. The subframed dropped some but when i try to lift the engine, the subframe goes up with it. I also detached the top motormount as well. Any suggestions would be helpful. I did a search with no luck. That pan is about 2 inches away from coming out! Heeeeeeeeeeelp!
Thanks

I got a chance to talk to tech and he gave me some excellent instructions on how to remove subframe. You will need an engine hoist to support engine while you drop subframe. You will remove bolt near front tires on left and right side underneath car. You will remove a hydraulic mount by removing bolt located in hole in front subframe. Second hydraulic mount located between steering rack and engine viewed from back of engine underneath looking up at rack. Finally, just loosen 3 rear bolts on each side of car at rear of subframe. This will allow you to swing down subframe to remove pan. Will keep you posted on project

After all the effort, the pan would not drop down between subframe, so i removed subframe. Work was much easier and accessible after that. Now, the engine purrs with no tapping noise due to air being sucked in. Thanks again tech for your quick and helpful response.

Im glad you got it done and DIDN'T give up.

BTW one Day I will get into the Post above and update it.

you guys dont post pics when you do the jobs? how hard would you say it was if you had to do it again?

Sorry I posted from doing it at work.
I can't take pics at work.

It will take you a day or 2 to do the job.

Like anything else, it would be easier to do it again, but I would have better tools such as an engine hoist. First timers beware its a good days work, lots of sweat(lil blood), and patience. Oh yeah, messy too!

My s80T6 is dropping oil from the back of the engine. It does not appear to be coming from the turbo tubes. If that oil collector was leaking, would it drain down the front or side of the engine?
Thanks

When I get under it again I'll be sure to take a few pics.

It would leak from the front of the engine.

That's interesting, thanks for the information. Hopefully I can take a pic latter this week. If I remember correctly it looked like the pics from silentBob. Never heard exactly what his problem ended up being.

Using a little clear RTV sealant works just as well as the official Volvo anerobic sealer.

I have a 2000 (NON TURBO 2.9) and I had my mechanic do this job due to the notorious Stop Car/No oil pressure light. After the job the light STILL Came on. I asked him how many o-rings he replaced and he said "all 3" I thought i read somewhere there were around 5...Did he miss some? He said he did nothing around the oil pump itself. Can anyone shed light on my problem, Please...Dan

You need to have 5 total done.

I have a 2000 (NON TURBO 2.9) and I had my mechanic do this job due to the notorious Stop Car/No oil pressure light. After the job the light STILL Came on. I asked him how many o-rings he replaced and he said "all 3" I thought i read somewhere there were around 5...Did he miss some? He said he did nothing around the oil pump itself. Can anyone shed light on my problem, Please...Dan

I have the same car. How much did it cost?

P.S Does anyone have instructions with pictures included?

thanks
nertil

there are five 2 for the tube in the pan 1 for the pick up in the block and 2 from the block to the pan on the passgr side

no detailed guide or pictures on this repair?

I was going to try this but maybe not.


Oil Sump Replacement

Replacing the oil pan

Special tools: 951 1205, 999 5460, 999 5716, 999 5717





Note!
As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Preparation
Remove the oil dipstick and pipe.

Turbocharged engines only
Remove:



the connector and hose from the crankcase ventilation terminal in the plastic intake pipe
the hose from the plastic charge air pipe
the screws for the charge air pipe in the intake pipe.[/ul]
Remove:


the hose clamps from the plastic pipe at the rear of the engine
the plastic pipes. If necessary, heat carefully using a hot air gun. Leave the pipes lying on the spark plug (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V6232295~C40039~R0~OD~N/0/70910848/78947516/78947546/110906894/34853741/100411974/34853743/58828691) cover.[/ul]
Installing the lifting fixture
Remove:



the cover over the ignition coils
the 2 screws at the engine mounting.[/ul]



















Install fixture 999 5717 .[/ul]
Installing the lifting beam and lifting hook on the engine lifting eyelet





Note!
Position the stand for lifting beam 999 5716 on the upper wheel arch members.



















Then position the lifting beam directly above the engine lifting eyes on both sides.
Connect to the hole nearest the firewall. Connect lifting hook 999 5460 .
Tighten to light contact.[/ul]
Draining the engine oil
Remove:



the lower engine cover
the front air baffle.
Drain the engine oil. Remove the oil filter (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V6232295~C40039~R0~OD~N/0/70910848/78947516/78947546/110906894/34853741/100411974/34853743/34872055).[/ul]
Removing components
Remove:




















the front wheel
the nuts for the lower ball joints
the anti-roll bar links from the anti-roll bar
the center screw for the right-hand drive shaft
the screw and nuts for the steering gear
the screw for the front engine mounting
the torque rod including the mounting in the subframe.[/ul]
Removing the spindles




















Tension the trailing arms together to release the spindles.
Use a retaining strap.
Unhook the right drive shaft from the wheel spindle.
Tension the spring strut backwards. Use a retaining strap.[/ul]
Removing components from the sub-frame




















Remove the screw for the cable duct.[/ul]
Remove:


the oil pipe for the steering gear from the snap fasteners along the sub-frame
the hose for the EVAP canister in the clips on the upper side of the sub-frame
any fuel line for the engine block heater (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V6232295~C40039~R0~OD~N/0/70910848/78947516/78947546/110906894/34853741/100411974/34853743/56492367) and any engine block heater if mounted on the left hand side of the sub-frame
the air duct from the clip
the screw for the ground cable bracket
the connectors for the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) in the clips at the rear of the sub-frame.[/ul]
Lowering sub-frame




















Slacken off the subframe screws. Lower the sub-frame slightly.
Remove the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) bracket on the reverse of the sub-frame.
Unscrew the screws for the sub-frame approximately 2.5 cm on the right-hand side.
Fully remove the screws on the left-hand side.
Angle the sub-frame down on the left-hand side.
Ensure that the screws for the steering gear release from the frame.[/ul]
Disconnecting the oil cooler (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V6232295~C40039~R0~OD~N/0/70910848/78947516/78947546/110906894/34853741/100411974/34853743/56492445)


Disconnect the oil cooler from the sump. Hang the oil cooler from a suitable place.[/ul]
Removing the oil pan




















Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.
Remove the screw for the bracket for the fuel line on the auxiliaries bracket.
Slacken off all the screws holding the oil pan.
Remove all but four screws. It is recommended that the four screws in the corners of the pan are left in place.
Carefully tap the pan using a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.[/ul]
Remove:


the four remaining screws
the oil sump.[/ul]
Cleaning


















Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil pan and cylinder block. Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent 116 1440.





Warning!
Use a fume hood or extractor when using gasket solvent.[/b]

Note!
Also clean the gasket faces for the screws for the torque rod.
Installing the oil pan
Apply liquid gasket 116 1059-9 to the sump. Use roller 951 1205 .





Note!
Also apply liquid gasket around the holes for the screws for the torque rod.
Install




















new O-rings
the oil sump. Secure the oil sump loosely using a few screws
the remaining screws loosely.[/ul]
Press the oil pan against the transmission. Tighten the screws (1), (2), (3) and (4). Tighten to 3 Nm .
Tighten the screws (5). First tighten to 25 Nm . Then tighten to 48 Nm .
Tighten all screws in the oil pan joint. Tighten to 17 Nm .
Start at the transmission and continue forwards in pairs.
Connect the oil cooler (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V6232295~C40039~R0~OD~N/0/70910848/78947516/78947546/110906894/34853741/100411974/34853743/56492445) to the sump. Use new O-rings.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.

Install:




















a new oil filter (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V6232295~C40039~R0~OD~N/0/70910848/78947516/78947546/110906894/34853741/100411974/34853743/34872055)
the oil plug with a new gasket.[/ul]
Installing the sub-frame

Lift the sub-frame. Use a mobile jack.

Install:




















the bracket for the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) in the rear edge of the sub-frame
new screw in the sub-frame. Lubricate the screws
the washers at the front edge and the support plates at the rear edge of the sub-frame.
Tighten the screws for the sub-frame. Tighten to 105 Nm .
Angle-tighten 120° . Use bevel protractor 951 2050 .
Start on the left hand side of the sub-frame. Continue with the right hand side.
Tighten the screws for the brackets at the rear of the subframe.
Tighten to 50 Nm .[/ul]
Installing components on the sub-frame
Install:




















the screw for the cable and air duct
the oil pipe for the steering gear in the snap fasteners along the sub-frame
the hose for the EVAP canister in the clip on the upperside of the sub-frame
the engine block heater (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V6232295~C40039~R0~OD~N/0/70910848/78947516/78947546/110906894/34853741/100411974/34853743/56492367) and the fuel line to the engine block heater if applicable
the air duct in the clips
the screw for the ground cable bracket
the connectors for the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) in the clips at the rear of the sub-frame.[/ul]
Removing retaining straps




















Slacken off the retaining straps for the spring strut.
Thread the drive shaft into the wheel spindle.
Carefully release the retaining strap for trailing arms. At the same time guide the lower ball joints into the trailing arms.[/ul]
Installing components



Install new nuts on the ball joints. Tighten to 80 Nm .
Counterhold using a Torx wrench so that the ball joint boot is not damaged.
Install the anti-roll bar links. Use new nuts. Tighten to 50 Nm .[/ul]



















Counterhold using a Torx wrench so that the boot is not damaged.[/ul]
Install:


the screw and nuts for the steering gear. Use new nuts and new screws. Tighten to 50 Nm
the front engine pad. Tighten to 50 Nm
the torque rod. Tighten the screws through the oil pan. Tighten to 50 Nm .
Tighten the nuts in the sub-frame. Tighten to 65 Nm
the center screw for the drive shaft. Use a new screw. Counterhold using a screwdriver in the brake disc vents. Tighten to 50 Nm
the front air baffle
the front wheel.[/ul]
Removing the lifting beam and the lifting hook
Remove:




















the lifting beam
the lifting hooks
the lifting fixture from the engine. Install the screws in the engine mounting.[/ul]
Finishing
Install:



the cover over the ignition coils
the oil dipstick and pipe. Use a new O-ring. Check that the O-ring is correctly positioned.[/ul]
Turbocharged engines only

Install:


the plastic pipes. Tighten the hose clamps
the screws for the charge air pipe in the intake pipe
the connector and hose to the crankcase ventilation terminal in the plastic intake pipe
the hose to the plastic charge air pipe.[/ul]
Filling with engine oil
Fill with 6.7 liters of new engine oil.

Check
Start the engine and check for oil leakage.
Stop the engine. Give the oil time to run down into the oil pan. Then check the oil level.
Top up if necessary but do not overfill.
Wipe the engine compartment clean.
Install the lower engine cover.

Just an interjection here....If you are talking about the o-rings inside the pan for the pickup, they will not cause any oil to leak on the exterior. Also, you might experiance a pretty noticeable engine "ticking" either when cold or all the time eventually. This might or might not be in conjunction with a low oil pressure light. As far as dropping the subframe goes, most of the time you do have to at least slacken or tacke out the right front subframe bolt as well as slacken the other front bolt and sometimes it helps if you take out the side engine mount bolts, they are pretty easy. Then pry down on the subframe and maybe stick a 2x4 in there or something out of the way. This might help you have enough room so you will have less of a chance of scraping new gasket sealant off upon the re-installation. The kit shouldnt be too far away from about $20.00 I would say. If you are leaking oil outside the vehicle, then if it is a turbo, you most likely have turbo drain seals leaking. If It isnt a turbo then it could be anything from a rear main seal, to either of the cam seals. When I have put seals in pan I never replaced the pans. You have them out and can clean them up pretty well normally. If it is in that bad of shape, then the engine is most liely doomed anyways. Hope this helps some!

I have a 2000 S80 2.0 T5 and I have the same problem when RPM drops to 650-700 ish I get the NO OIL PRESSURE STOP ENGINE - msg , I am in Bangladesh and the Volvo dealer here shut down two months ago. So any help would be great My question is

A) Where can I buy the O Rings and probably its part number for my vehicle, will the ones from the US 2.8 models work?

B) Is there any problem driving the car with this situation?

C) My engine guy did clean the Oil Pressure Switch and the Lights went away and just comes on now in the morning. Possible explanation to this?


Thanks

Saad

If my memory serves me right every automotive shop should have a book showing how many hours to do repairs on your car. Anyway we do in Missouri..the only drawback to that is..sometimes it doesn't take that long do actually do the repair, if your a mechanic and know shortcuts.

Lets say the book shows 3 hrs for a particular job you want done to your car.. well, your going to get charged 3 hrs whether it takes your mechanic 5 mins or 3 hrs, your going to be charged 3 hrs, period. Also, if it takeshim 10 hrs, he should only charge you for 3 hrs, thats his problem if he took that long to do a 3 hr job.

GOOD LUCK and HAPPY MOTORING !!!;)

thank you very much Tech my problem is solved,

For those who do not know , my vehicle was giving NO OIL PRESSURE whenever RPM went below 700, So I did the following

*Ordered the O Ring Kit
* New Oil Pressure Switch
* Replaced 5 O Rings
*Cleaned the Oil Pan and whatever is down there (service guys know what they did)
* New Engine Oil Oil Filter etc

and DONE the car is smooth as anything. One thing the guy who did the job said out of 5 seals two of them were missing and it had some sort of glue blocking the way for oil passing. I didnt understand what he was saying. None the less my problem is solved. The O Rings Cost around $30 and labor about $40 worth in my currency (you gotta love the third world labor rates).

TC

Saad

Glad all is fixed now!!!!

Tech, I have a 99 s80 2.8 turbo and have removed the splash shield. I haven't started the job yet, however, the only thing that appears to be in the way of removal of the oil pan is a small torque mount at the rear (driver's side) of the oil pan. I can put my hand between the subframe and the front(radiator side) of the oil pan. Am I missing something?
P.S. you were correct in a previous question about multiple codes, I had the ecu repaired and now (except low oil pressure) everythings great.

You still have to drop the subframe some because it will not go by the engine mount on the right side due to the pickup tube for the oil. Sorry to say but it will have to be dropped some.

Tech, Thanks for your response. Looks are too often deceiving.

Yes they are.

So for a 1999 V70 XC is it a slam dunk or does the sub frame need to be dropped too? Labor time is 3.5 hrs. Looks like there is plenty of room. I will be doing the t-belt at the same time.

Thanks!

You might have to lift the motor alittle bit for the oil cooler. I have done 850's and the 98,99,00 cars without dropping the subframe.

So I have been busy today doing this job. Not a truly east or fun job, but hopefully will pay off. Definitely drop the sub frame a bit to get the pan out, certainly makes it easier. The power steering lines are a pain too, and other than that, it is just super time consuming. I have found a ton of sludge and some flakes in the bottom of my pan. I am concerned my motor is shot, but some help in this area would be useful. I have the o-ring kit, but need to know where all of them go besides the obvious ones. Tech, any answers yet again? I will be finishing the job tomorrow, and hopefully my motor restarts without problem. Here is a link to the source of my issue. And by the way, this forum is way more useful when it comes to maintenance such as this stuff compared to Volvospeed.

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/120916-oil-sump/

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/120979-check-this-out-you-should/

There is the 2 that go between the oil pan and block.
Then there is one that goes on the pickup tube. That is all you will need to get the pan back on the motor.

how about doing this job on a 2000 v40? will pan drop out or will undercarriage stuff have to be moved?

thanks

You will have to remove some stuff but not support the motor there is an upper engine and transmission mount that will hold the motor.

I'm still analyzing the procedure and will work out to this on weekend.I haven't done this change before because i honestly don't know how.I used to asked a technician doing it for me.Thanks for your help.Things are more clear.

The oil leak I have is coming from higher than the sump seal at the next seal. I imagine this spacer holds the crank in place meaning it would involve removing the engine to repair? I would like to think otherwise...

Initially the mechanic & myself thought it was just one of the turbo oil drain tube seals as it was the most apparent leak. After having this repaired we found the worst leak was the seal at the block. Due to the expense I would like to tackle this myself but would like to get as much info before I do.

Has anyone had this issue?

Yes the motor has to come out to repair that one.
But I have never seen one leak there before.

The pictures on page 4 would be tremendously helpful but they are gone. Can anyone help?

It is tooo hard would this be if you only had two jack stands? I didn't really see a list of required tools so I'm guessing I have every thing I need accept oil filter, set of o-rings/gaskets, gasket solvent and of course oil.

The only thing I suggest is to put sealant on the block AND the pan on the front edge of the motor because of having the get it back in over the power steering lines (just to be safe).
Otherwise, it is a snap and a gravy job I would do all day for $400 that is including oil, filter and sealer.