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Oil pan o-ring replacement instructions!!!

  #41  
Old 05-29-2009, 05:21 PM
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Tech, I have a 99 s80 2.8 turbo and have removed the splash shield. I haven't started the job yet, however, the only thing that appears to be in the way of removal of the oil pan is a small torque mount at the rear (driver's side) of the oil pan. I can put my hand between the subframe and the front(radiator side) of the oil pan. Am I missing something?
P.S. you were correct in a previous question about multiple codes, I had the ecu repaired and now (except low oil pressure) everythings great.
 
  #42  
Old 05-30-2009, 06:21 AM
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You still have to drop the subframe some because it will not go by the engine mount on the right side due to the pickup tube for the oil. Sorry to say but it will have to be dropped some.
 
  #43  
Old 05-30-2009, 10:00 AM
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Tech, Thanks for your response. Looks are too often deceiving.
 
  #44  
Old 05-30-2009, 10:02 AM
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Yes they are.
 
  #45  
Old 07-07-2009, 10:44 AM
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So for a 1999 V70 XC is it a slam dunk or does the sub frame need to be dropped too? Labor time is 3.5 hrs. Looks like there is plenty of room. I will be doing the t-belt at the same time.

Thanks!
 
  #46  
Old 07-07-2009, 07:06 PM
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You might have to lift the motor alittle bit for the oil cooler. I have done 850's and the 98,99,00 cars without dropping the subframe.
 
  #47  
Old 07-31-2009, 05:47 PM
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So I have been busy today doing this job. Not a truly east or fun job, but hopefully will pay off. Definitely drop the sub frame a bit to get the pan out, certainly makes it easier. The power steering lines are a pain too, and other than that, it is just super time consuming. I have found a ton of sludge and some flakes in the bottom of my pan. I am concerned my motor is shot, but some help in this area would be useful. I have the o-ring kit, but need to know where all of them go besides the obvious ones. Tech, any answers yet again? I will be finishing the job tomorrow, and hopefully my motor restarts without problem. Here is a link to the source of my issue. And by the way, this forum is way more useful when it comes to maintenance such as this stuff compared to Volvospeed.

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...0916-oil-sump/

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...ut-you-should/
 
  #48  
Old 08-01-2009, 10:55 AM
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There is the 2 that go between the oil pan and block.
Then there is one that goes on the pickup tube. That is all you will need to get the pan back on the motor.
 
  #49  
Old 08-04-2009, 12:51 AM
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Default pan o-ring replacement

how about doing this job on a 2000 v40? will pan drop out or will undercarriage stuff have to be moved?

thanks
 
  #50  
Old 08-04-2009, 07:25 PM
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You will have to remove some stuff but not support the motor there is an upper engine and transmission mount that will hold the motor.
 
  #51  
Old 10-18-2009, 02:27 AM
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I'm still analyzing the procedure and will work out to this on weekend.I haven't done this change before because i honestly don't know how.I used to asked a technician doing it for me.Thanks for your help.Things are more clear.
 
  #52  
Old 12-09-2009, 12:56 AM
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The oil leak I have is coming from higher than the sump seal at the next seal. I imagine this spacer holds the crank in place meaning it would involve removing the engine to repair? I would like to think otherwise...

Initially the mechanic & myself thought it was just one of the turbo oil drain tube seals as it was the most apparent leak. After having this repaired we found the worst leak was the seal at the block. Due to the expense I would like to tackle this myself but would like to get as much info before I do.

Has anyone had this issue?
 
  #53  
Old 12-11-2009, 08:55 PM
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Yes the motor has to come out to repair that one.
But I have never seen one leak there before.
 
  #54  
Old 01-27-2010, 03:35 PM
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The pictures on page 4 would be tremendously helpful but they are gone. Can anyone help?
 
  #55  
Old 01-30-2010, 05:03 AM
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It is tooo hard would this be if you only had two jack stands? I didn't really see a list of required tools so I'm guessing I have every thing I need accept oil filter, set of o-rings/gaskets, gasket solvent and of course oil.
 
  #56  
Old 02-16-2010, 04:47 PM
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The only thing I suggest is to put sealant on the block AND the pan on the front edge of the motor because of having the get it back in over the power steering lines (just to be safe).
Otherwise, it is a snap and a gravy job I would do all day for $400 that is including oil, filter and sealer.
 
  #57  
Old 03-23-2010, 04:06 PM
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Unhappy Frustrated!

I am very frustrated trying to remove the sump from my 2000 S80. I have taken all bolts off the sump and lowered the subframe about 3 or more inches and the sump will not come out. Is there a trick to this or am I missing something.

Is it a matter of twisting and turning or do you have to pry it out with some force?

Can anybody offer any suggestions???????

Ken
 
  #58  
Old 03-23-2010, 07:37 PM
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You might not have the subframe down enough. Also the pickup tube goes into a hole in the pan. You have to work it out of there as well.
 
  #59  
Old 03-24-2010, 06:43 AM
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I wondered if the subframe was low enough but I am not sure how to lower it any further. I have removed the 3 front bolts (2 to the frame and 1 to the engine mount) I have removed the 2 bolts on the right engine mount near the tire and the 2 in the rear but won't come down any further. Are there some bolts I am missing?
 
  #60  
Old 04-07-2010, 04:24 PM
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Having the same problem here. Seems like no matter how many bolts I remove, the subframe doesn't drop. I got the pan out finally but the idea of getting it back in with a liquid gasket intact doesn't sound promising. Any suggestions on what I may be overlooking in dropping the subframe?
 

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