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Hey all,
Have a 98 2 ltr 10v V70.
She runs beautifully - however noticed a little stutter from the engine when driving - hardly anything and it seemed to pass. However changed the plugs and air filter and all seemed good for 240 miles. Then one day after a 50 mile drive it refused to start. Would crank happily, but not start. It stuttered for a second or two then stopped. Eventually local rescue called and embassingly it started after the third try and ran as normal until home. Would not restart after we stopped. Suspect heat related problem. Has anyone any idea what? Could the fuel pump relay be at fault? Do not think it is maf sensor because it runs well when it starts.
Any help would be appreciated,
Thanks.
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Thankyou for the comment, I have suggested to the garage lads that the relay is the first thing to change as it is relatively cheap. I will post back as soon as this is done.
( forgot to mention earlier that no codes were dropped when tested )
Not all bad news because I think,... and here would welcome other opinions,..that we now turn our attention to the MAF sensor. Suggested to the garage that we try to clean it first - they are going to have a go with carb cleaner. Will report back soon.
MAF SENSOR CLEANED BUT AS CAR RUNS WELL from cold do not think this is the problem
Replaced engine temperature sensor still not starting when hot
Suspect the spark - tested for a spark and found none. Therefore am thinking the problem could be with the coil. Has anyone any thoughts?
Actually could be the coil as I changed the plugs and air filter due to a slight stuttering which was just perceptible when motoring normally.
Thanks Tech for the suggestion - will address coil first and come back to report - regarding the camshaft sensor I can see that this is near the engine and can get warm - yet it does not seem to effect the running of the car from cold to normal temp, only when trying to restart.
Got the car home from my local garage who had run out of ideas - a very tricky drive had to fight to keep it running. Called in recovery finally to take it to the volvo dealer. Recovery checked for spark and it was not sparking as I said previously after a run. Needed to jump engine but checked master lead from the coil - it was ok - good spark. Attention turned to distributor. Took it off examined it and found an almost invisible crack ( felt like an idiot for not doing this earlier. ) No spares available ( Sunday ) so bridged gap with nail varnish. Ran engine - got it hot,,, and stopped it. AND SHE RESTARTED, wow looked like it was solved. Anyway got a distributor cap and rotor next day fitted them myself ran beautifully. Would not start again but checked the flattish battery, only 9.3 volts. Got new battery, Starts and runs well. Fitted camshaft sensor also as a precaution yet I think iy may have just been a bad connection, but hey ho. Seems okay but time will tell. I had got too obsessed earlier with all the sensors and forgotten to do what I would have done years ago, ie look for the obvious.
Hi all, okay thought I might have solved the problem. But after about 270 miles of perfect starting and running the car would not start again after a 40 minute rest. The recently fitted camshaft sensor connection was unplugged and then re-connected and it started straight away. I am suspecting the connector. Is it possible that the old side of the connector is slightly corroded / worn? Has anyone come across this before?
Recapping - new plugs, air filter, fuel pump relay, distributor ( old one found to have hairline crack ) rotor arm, camshaft sensor and new battery.
August 21 2010
All seems okay now after 1500 miles without problem. The real background culprit was the camshaft sensor. Brother had exactley same problem with a MG ZR,
Last edited by eikeeg; 08-22-2010 at 12:06 PM.
Reason: confirmation of fix
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