Hey all,
Have a 98 2 ltr 10v V70.
She runs beautifully - however noticed a little stutter from the engine when driving - hardly anything and it seemed to pass. However changed the plugs and air filter and all seemed good for 240 miles. Then one day after a 50 mile drive it refused to start. Would crank happily, but not start. It stuttered for a second or two then stopped. Eventually local rescue called and embassingly it started after the third try and ran as normal until home. Would not restart after we stopped. Suspect heat related problem. Has anyone any idea what? Could the fuel pump relay be at fault? Do not think it is maf sensor because it runs well when it starts.
Any help would be appreciated,
Thanks.

 

Possible it is the relay.

 

Thankyou for the comment, I have suggested to the garage lads that the relay is the first thing to change as it is relatively cheap. I will post back as soon as this is done.
( forgot to mention earlier that no codes were dropped when tested )

 

Not all bad news because I think,... and here would welcome other opinions,..that we now turn our attention to the MAF sensor. Suggested to the garage that we try to clean it first - they are going to have a go with carb cleaner. Will report back soon.

MAF SENSOR CLEANED BUT AS CAR RUNS WELL from cold do not think this is the problem

 

Suspect the spark - tested for a spark and found none. Therefore am thinking the problem could be with the coil. Has anyone any thoughts?
Actually could be the coil as I changed the plugs and air filter due to a slight stuttering which was just perceptible when motoring normally.

 

It could also be a bad cam sensor as well.

 

Thanks Tech for the suggestion - will address coil first and come back to report - regarding the camshaft sensor I can see that this is near the engine and can get warm - yet it does not seem to effect the running of the car from cold to normal temp, only when trying to restart.

 

Got the car home from my local garage who had run out of ideas - a very tricky drive had to fight to keep it running. Called in recovery finally to take it to the volvo dealer. Recovery checked for spark and it was not sparking as I said previously after a run. Needed to jump engine but checked master lead from the coil - it was ok - good spark. Attention turned to distributor. Took it off examined it and found an almost invisible crack ( felt like an idiot for not doing this earlier. ) No spares available ( Sunday ) so bridged gap with nail varnish. Ran engine - got it hot,,, and stopped it. AND SHE RESTARTED, wow looked like it was solved. Anyway got a distributor cap and rotor next day fitted them myself ran beautifully. Would not start again but checked the flattish battery, only 9.3 volts. Got new battery, Starts and runs well. Fitted camshaft sensor also as a precaution yet I think iy may have just been a bad connection, but hey ho. Seems okay but time will tell. I had got too obsessed earlier with all the sensors and forgotten to do what I would have done years ago, ie look for the obvious.

 

Glad it is better now.

 

Hi all, okay thought I might have solved the problem. But after about 270 miles of perfect starting and running the car would not start again after a 40 minute rest. The recently fitted camshaft sensor connection was unplugged and then re-connected and it started straight away. I am suspecting the connector. Is it possible that the old side of the connector is slightly corroded / worn? Has anyone come across this before?
Recapping - new plugs, air filter, fuel pump relay, distributor ( old one found to have hairline crack ) rotor arm, camshaft sensor and new battery.

August 21 2010
All seems okay now after 1500 miles without problem. The real background culprit was the camshaft sensor. Brother had exactley same problem with a MG ZR,

 

I had an intermittent start issue that was caused by the thermostat sensor on my C70. It would start up, run all day and then NOT start back up. I was told it was a bad MAF sensor (i cleaned it and swapped it out, same issue) by the Volvo shop. 2nd time around they diagnosed the water temperature sensor. I ordered a sensor and thermostat from FCP Groton, swapped them and it worked. GL.

 

Hi all,
Checked all connections - separated and reconnected temp sensor, ( temp rises okay - it is new - but thanksfor the tip )then spotted the white vacuum pipe was not connected to the air filter housing. Reconnected it ( it had dropped down into the engine previously when someone else had looked at it - honestly ) and started engine all okay except engine warning light now stays on. Reset the service light thinking the engine warning light might also go but it has not. What should I do now? Do I try and get the codes read? Could the disconnected vacuum pipe cause poor starting after a run?

 

Disconnected the battery again - this time for about an hour. When reconnected and started the warning light had gone. Eureka !! I am hesitantly optimistic now that we have probably, maybe, sort of, praying, fingers crossed solved the problems with the car.