Buyer's guide

[axelm]

This post is "taken" from a Volvo forum from the UK. I found it interesting so I am posting it here. Axel ================================================== ================ here is a full buyers guide for t5 models.... Volvo 850 and 70 series T5, T5R, 850R and R (Up until 2002) Buyers Guide This guide is intended for use as a base reference source only, you should conduct usual car checks/inspections for general roadworthiness and perform a HPI to confirm legibility. 850 and 70 series overview A little bit about how the 854/855 came to be, and later on the updated v/s/c70 series. Models & Technical Specifications 850 T5 (1993 – 1996) 850 T5-R estate and saloon (circa 1995 - 1996) 850 R estate and saloon (circa 1996 - 1997), only model to feature an LSD S/V70 T5 (1996 - 2001) C70 T5 (1997 - 2002) S70R - FWD only (1997 – 2001) V70R - which came in FWD and AWD versions (1997 – 2001) Model, Engine code, Turbo, BHP 850 T5 1994-1995 - B5234T 225hp/B5234T5 240hp - 15G - conic outlet from turbine 850 T5 1996 - B5234T 225hp/B5234T5 240hp - 15G straight outlet from turbine 850R man - B5234T4 - 16T straight outlet from turbine - 250hp S/V/C70 T5 1997-1998 - B5234T3 - 16T straight outlet from turbine - 240hp S/V/C70 T5 1999-2000 - B5234T3 - 16T angled outlet from turbine - 240hp S/V70R man FWD/AWD 1997-1998 - B5234T4 - 18T straight outlet from turbine – 250hp V70R auto AWD 1999 - B5234RT - 18T angled outlet form turbine - 250hp V70R auto AWD 2000 - B5244RT - 19T angled outlet form turbine - 265hp Suspension Suspension design remained the same on all models except for the rear struts. As Volvos are renowned as being load luggers, Volvo introduced a ‘Self Leveling’ (Nivomats) system for the rear suspension, which aids in carrying heavy loads and/or towing. They are most commonly found on estates, but not all estates have them, they have also been found on saloons, but very rarely. The ‘R’s are lower than a stock T5 by about 30mm. Brakes There are two disc sizes available for the 850/70 series cars. Up until 1998, all front discs were 280mm, later models used a 302mm disc, members generally upgrade to the 302mm disc as it offers better braking performance. The change from the 280mm you will need larger carriers and longer brake hoses (might as well go braided), and of course the larger disc. Caliper and pads remain the same. Of course there are upgraded discs and pads available. Alloys 850 T5 - Columba 850 T5-R - Titan 850 R - Volan C70 T5 - Canisto OR BBS Split Rim OR Comet S/V70 T5 - Perfo S/V70R - Comet 850R & T5-R Specs Rs should have lower suspension, the R lip front splitter, 17inch rims and the trade mark 1/2 leather 1/2 suede interior. 850Rs (1996-97) have the suede on the inserts and leather on the bolsters of the seat. There should be electric memory seats on both driver and front passenger. 850 T5-Rs (1995-96) have it the other way around - leather inserts and suede bolsters. They should all have climate control and CD multichangers. There are a few that dont but generally they all have very high specs. 70 series ‘R’ Specs The ‘R’ spec is all about the trim, the toys and the styling tweaks (e.g alloys, internal trim, front splitter). Just as a starting point make sure the car has R wheels (comets = 5 spoke) an R front bumper which is basically a lip on the bottom of the bumper. The R seats have a slightly patterned alcantara in the middle and leather on the sides. The dash has aluminium inserts plus the dials are blue. It should have both front electric seats along with heated front & rear seats. Buyers Guide Introduction This guide shows the key points that you should be aware of when looking over a T5/R, if any of these points fail in your inspection/test drive, they are a very good bargaining point, but bare in mind that they could prove to be very expensive to fix later on in your ownership. FSH A high mileage Volvo is nothing to worry about, these engines if looked after and are well maintained can go on for 200k+ miles without any major problems. The service book should be stamped and up to date and performed every 10k miles by either a reputable Volvo Specialist or Volvo Dealers. However, do not be put off with cars that have been personally looked after by their owners, these cars are often looked after at a higher standard than with the Dealer networks, they will have folders full of receipts and spreadsheets of the parts that have been changed. Dash warning lights Check that all the warning lights that should be on when the ignition is first turned on work. It is not unknown for unscrupulous persons to remove the bulb from warning lights such as the Lambda light to mask an expensive fault. Compare with the user manual - it will tell you what to look for. Check for ABS/TRACS light coming on when driving. Probably dry joints in the ABS ECU,which can be repaired via a forum member. Aircon/Climate Control Ensure that the air conditioning is functioning as it should. If it isn't it could just be it needs re-gassing but there are other more expensive reasons why it may not get as cold as it should. Check the aircon compressor cuts in and stays in. If it short cycles gas is low. Could be a condenser (approx £100) as they are prone to holing. If it is the evaporator it is a full dash out which will cost approx £500. Heated Seats There was a recall on the heated seats effecting 1996 models. If appropriate, ask if the Heated Seats recall has been actioned, this is FOC action by Volvo dealer so it should have been. If the owner plays dumb it might be a bargaining point. Remember it won't cost you anything to get it done if it hasn't been actioned. Checking the oil When checking the oil via the dipstick, do not be alarmed if you see creamy gunk at the end of it, it is a trait of most T5 engines to have some condensation inside, this can be easily confused with a head gasket failure, they can look very similar. If the car has been used frequently for short journeys then no doubt you will see creamy gunk when you check the oil dipstick. Check the oil filler cap for signs of ‘baileys’, if you see it here then suspect either a head gasket failure or a split in the radiator/oil cooler. Make sure the oil level is correct. PCV System When the PCV system becomes blocked it leads to an increase in crankcase pressure, this can be seen when the engine is running, take the dipstick out, if you see smoke puffing out then this system will need to be replaced, if it isn’t it will eventually lead to a rear main oil seal failure. RMS, Clutch & Oil Leaks Rear main oil seal is a weakness due to the PCV system, to check if this seal is leaking get underneath the engine bay and check for oil residues between the engine and gearbox. If it is leaking then unfortunately the gearbox has to come off which has a 6.25hr labour charge. This makes it an ideal time and makes financial sense to also replace the clutch, as the gearbox will only have to come off again later down the road. If you find an oil leak further up the back of the engine then a common place for oil to leak from is the oil return line from turbo that goes into the back of the engine. Not a big worry and fairly inexpensive to fix, but always a bargaining point. Cambelt Cambelts are due every 70-80k miles or 6years, depending on year. Costs for a cambelt change are £100+. Check there aren’t any unusual noises coming from the cambelt side of the engine, also visually check the condition of the serpentine belt. If appropriate, make sure that a Cambelt change has been documented in

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[JPN]

It kind of sounds like they read our threads very carefully and put their own version together.


JPN

[RedTurbo850]

This thread should be stickied...

[tech]

Done

[JimKW]

A few things to add after looking at the 850 information from above. You can tell the model by looking at the 6th and 7th position of the VIN:

58 = T5R for 95 and 850 R for 96 & 97 - 240 HP
57 = Turbo for 94 & 95, T5 for 96 & 97 - 221 HP (list above state 225)
56 = GLT model that does have a Low Pressure Turbo for 97 model only (198 HP for 97)
55 = Base NA model- no Turbo 168 HP

In 98 if the 6th and 7th position of the VIN is 53 it's a High Pressure Turbo and 56 is the Low Pressure Turbo.

[volvoguy850]

Hello I am new to the volvo forums. I have a question and hope JPN(moderator) and anyone else willoffer me some advice. I am considering purchasing a 1996 850 R sedan with 72,000 miles, apparently in excellent condition. The price is $11,000 which seems high to me. I've done some research on auto sites which indicate the suggested dealer retail price is about $11,000. Butother sources have suggested $6,000.

What price range do you think is reasonable? Any thoughts about this model in particular. Is it really that much better than the straight Turbo version? Any other thoughts on issues having to do with reliability,etc...

Also, separate from this I am wondering what are the chances of finding the Limited edition 850 sedan in Yellow in excellent condition? I know there were very few produced, but where could I look to find one? Thanks very much.

Neal

[jks2]

I don't care how good of shape a 96 is in I wouldn't pay $11K for it. Six sounds a whole lot more reasonable.

[JimKW]

For $11,000 you can have my 95 Yellow T5R that is in excellent condition.

For a 96 850 R with 72K on it, I would go about $8,000 for one in absolutely pristine condition.

By the way you really should start a new thread instead of putting this type of question in this thread which is meant to provide general help to people looking to buy a Volvo.

Good luck!