Hey, so for the last couple of months my car has had struggles starting up. Through a few intuitive moments, I determined that slamming on the floor above the intank fuel pump would generally get it too start (sometimes holding the inline fuel pump on at the relay does it too, depends on the tank temperature). So in about a week I am looking to replace it. I wanted to know what my shopping list should have and maybe what to expect. I have done a lot of work on my own cars but never in the fuel system. Besides dirt and sparks, anything else to be weary of?

This hilariously named bung nut, is the tool to remove really rare enough that only IPD would carry it? I think the shipping on a piece of steel like that from Oregon to Canada might be a bit steep to make it worth it.

What about the hoses? Anything special there?

What are some brands to avoid for the pump? Any special bolts, mountings etc I should replace?

Thank you

 

Never done the job on a 240 but on a 740 GLE it was pretty straight forward. I needed nothing other than the pump. At the age you have, I would suggest the fuel sending unit seal. My guess would be that the removal would destroy a 23 year old seal.

 

You'll want a new sock for the bottom of the pump and a nut o-ring, and be prepared to replace the hose that connects the pump to the steel tube. Double check the correct polarity of the new pump since people have stated replacement units have been wired backwards.

The bung nut tool makes really easy, but you can also use a c-clamp or something close ... see:
http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm

 

Okay, I am fairly certain at least the intank pump needs replacing, but I am not entirely convinced that's the issue with the start, though it may contribute.

See, my car starts every time, but not every turn. It did that intermittently when I first got it (once every week or two). But there have been a bevy of problems that, once diagnosed, solved or improved it for a bit. First it was the timing belt, then the inline fuse, the fuel pump relay, etc. Anyways, somewhere in all that cranking with no fire, i think i may have screwed my starter.

Here's how it plays out: If i turn it after sitting a bit, 90% of the time i get about a second of normal sounding starter the then a intermittent grinding and recently, sometimes a high pitch almost electronic whine. If, however, I turn it over and stop just before it grinds (repeat this short start a few times), it will start sooner and smoother (sometimes after only 2 times). I think it's a mix of the additional engaging of the in line fuel pump making up for the lack pressure from the intank pump.

question is, how screwed is my starter? How would I check?

 

Is there a way to replace the starter gear on these cars?

 

I think they would call that a rebuilt starter. Starters have a core so probably something you can NOT do yourself.

 

Have you done this job yet? I was having similar starting issues with my '92 240 a few months back, and changed the primer pump right away. Ran fine for a couple days, then the problems started again. All along the culprit had been a bad crank sensor. I still haven't raplaced it, taped it up and re-secured it, bada bing.