Passenger side front strut broken
#1
Passenger side front strut broken
Driving today I heard a lot of suspension thudding about half way back home. This was after driving over our cratered roads of metro Detroit and then being in stop go traffic for 40-45 mins. I didnt realize the problem until I managed to hit an open road and going at 45 mph over bumps the steering felt vague and there was a lot of thudding. Pulled over and found that the front passenger side strut just broke itself away from its mounts and shot into the hood. I was only 2 miles away from home and drove home at 10 mph all way avoiding most pot holes.
1998 C70 2.3L coupe.
Attached picture shows what happened (its not my car - just a picture from goggle but shows what mine looks like).
The car 300045 miles on it. I dont want to spend a bunch of money on it. Already spent a decent bit so far.
Its got new fuel pump & filter; new front tires; new vacuum lines; new battery; new alternator; new brake pads & resurfaced rotors; new MAF, new plugs, rotor, wires, distributor; new radiator, hoses, t-stat; new steering rack; new heater core; new cabin filter and engine air filter. The headlight wipers still work. Changed all the dash lights.
The radio has a mind of its own (the CD & cassette players work fine), AC is a bit wonky needing recharge every 5-6 months, dash rattles & squeaks (havent gotten around to tearing it apart and fixing those tabs). Other than that everything is good. Engine & transmission are good so far and I still get a smile every time I drive it. Body has very minimal rust on it.
Question is - how much cost am I looking at? Is it even worth spending money keeping this car any longer?
I would appreciate everyone's advice & thoughts.
Thanks!
1998 C70 2.3L coupe.
Attached picture shows what happened (its not my car - just a picture from goggle but shows what mine looks like).
The car 300045 miles on it. I dont want to spend a bunch of money on it. Already spent a decent bit so far.
Its got new fuel pump & filter; new front tires; new vacuum lines; new battery; new alternator; new brake pads & resurfaced rotors; new MAF, new plugs, rotor, wires, distributor; new radiator, hoses, t-stat; new steering rack; new heater core; new cabin filter and engine air filter. The headlight wipers still work. Changed all the dash lights.
The radio has a mind of its own (the CD & cassette players work fine), AC is a bit wonky needing recharge every 5-6 months, dash rattles & squeaks (havent gotten around to tearing it apart and fixing those tabs). Other than that everything is good. Engine & transmission are good so far and I still get a smile every time I drive it. Body has very minimal rust on it.
Question is - how much cost am I looking at? Is it even worth spending money keeping this car any longer?
I would appreciate everyone's advice & thoughts.
Thanks!
Last edited by 240-FAN; 07-28-2014 at 07:14 PM. Reason: Forgot to mention vehicle year.
#5
If you've done all those jobs you listed by yourself it isn't that bad of a repair. I did mine on both sides using IPDs heavy duty mounts, $40 each.
Volvo ipd Heavy Duty Front Upper Spring Seat 112831 8646713, 3546238, 9173203, 9461728, 30683637, 30647763 30683637HD
Here's also a good video to watch to see how it all goes together.
Volvo ipd Heavy Duty Front Upper Spring Seat 112831 8646713, 3546238, 9173203, 9461728, 30683637, 30647763 30683637HD
Here's also a good video to watch to see how it all goes together.
#6
I have never actually ever worked on the suspension. I know of someone in college who had the coil spring release on him. What a mess he was for more than year.
The coil spring coming off at me is what always puts me off from doing the job myself. Plus I do most of my work in the alley way (the joys of being a college student sigh...).
The spring seats are completely gone. The struts themselves dont show any fluid seepage. I might just give it to a shop and have them give me a "complimentary" quote.
Question is: do I need to replace struts & springs also? I am hoping to get away with just the spring seats and bearing.
The coil spring coming off at me is what always puts me off from doing the job myself. Plus I do most of my work in the alley way (the joys of being a college student sigh...).
The spring seats are completely gone. The struts themselves dont show any fluid seepage. I might just give it to a shop and have them give me a "complimentary" quote.
Question is: do I need to replace struts & springs also? I am hoping to get away with just the spring seats and bearing.
#7
I assume you've been ignoring the crunching noise over bumps for a while?
If someone got injured by a spring, they were most likely not using the spring compressor correctly or were using a crappy one.
Labor to do both mounts and bearings would be 2.5 hours plus alignment. But the bearings don't usually go bad. However, this is a bit of a different circumstance so the one on the side that broke through may need replacement.
If someone got injured by a spring, they were most likely not using the spring compressor correctly or were using a crappy one.
Labor to do both mounts and bearings would be 2.5 hours plus alignment. But the bearings don't usually go bad. However, this is a bit of a different circumstance so the one on the side that broke through may need replacement.
#8
Yes and no. My brother was driving after his Focus got totaled this past winter. I guess by the time I drove it last week, the bushings had probably already fallen apart.
Yikes 3 hours labor will add up. I am just going to get a quote done to see what they say and then do all the work myself.
Now if the struts and springs look ok, is there any need to replace them? The PO had said that he changed them about 50K miles ago
Yikes 3 hours labor will add up. I am just going to get a quote done to see what they say and then do all the work myself.
Now if the struts and springs look ok, is there any need to replace them? The PO had said that he changed them about 50K miles ago
#9
#11
I was quoted between $430 & $590 by different shops for that one side. No thanks - I am going to do it myself. I intend to "rent" those compressors from autozone. The one's at Hb looked real flimsy. Also, I am going to get cheaper Monroe struts for now and genuine spring seats from the dealer - then save some money and do the other side within the next couple of months.
Is this going to be an issue - having only 1 side struts/seat new? I know the Monroe's wont ride as good but I cant be picky at the moment.
Is this going to be an issue - having only 1 side struts/seat new? I know the Monroe's wont ride as good but I cant be picky at the moment.
#14
#18
So I got it fixed today. Found a shop that would take my parts. Charged me $200 labor and they did not mess with my alignment. So got it done a lot cheaper.
Was also told that the other side is "worn out" and the sway bar end links need replacement and that the upper engine mount is going bad.
I did hear the drivers side "thunk" over bumps and there's also a rattle while going over the bumpy roads.
Edit: Just checked sway bar end links - they seem firm. No rattle. I thought if they clunked meant that they were going out. Correct?
Question is: how do I check the other side spring seat? I tried to look at it without jacking the car and it's almost impossible to look at it.
Was also told that the other side is "worn out" and the sway bar end links need replacement and that the upper engine mount is going bad.
I did hear the drivers side "thunk" over bumps and there's also a rattle while going over the bumpy roads.
Edit: Just checked sway bar end links - they seem firm. No rattle. I thought if they clunked meant that they were going out. Correct?
Question is: how do I check the other side spring seat? I tried to look at it without jacking the car and it's almost impossible to look at it.
Last edited by 240-FAN; 07-31-2014 at 07:03 PM. Reason: Just checked sway bar links
#20
I grabbed them one at a time and gave them a hard tug. No movement and no clunk/rattle or any sound. They were very firmly in place. I had changed them about 25K miles ago - which is why I am more confident that they should not have worn out (granted that they were cheaper replacements).
I just checked the invoice - $50 out of the total was for 2 front wheel alignment. My bad.
I will check the top nut tomorrow after class.
I just checked the invoice - $50 out of the total was for 2 front wheel alignment. My bad.
I will check the top nut tomorrow after class.