How Do I Replace Entire Headlight Assembly?
#1
06-02-2005, 05:11 PM
#2
06-02-2005, 08:23 PM
RE: How Do I Replace Entire Headlight Assembly?
You will have to remove most of the front bumper.There is rivets in the wheel well that will have to be drilled out.Then there is a screw by the rivets that you will have to loosen then push the screw in to slide the catch out of the bumper cover.Then oopen the hood and remove the plastic clips behind the grill under the hood holding the top part of the bumper cover on.Then remove the black molding in the center of the bumper cover and you will see screws.Remove the screws on the side of the light you need to remove.Then you can look around the headlight for the screws holding it in.You can also look at the new light and match up with the old one to find the screws.
#3
06-02-2005, 08:39 PM
#5
05-11-2009, 12:02 PM
S60 2003 Replacing Headlamp
S60 2003 Replacing Headlamp (North American Specification)
Begin by removing/loosening the bumper fascia
Removing the Bumper Fascia
Open the hood (bonnet). There are 6 plastic push-in fasteners attaching the tope edge of the bumper fascia to the radiator support cross member. Drill a 1/8 inch hole in each of the 6 push-in plastic fastener center pins, and part way drive in a suitable self-tapping screw. Pull up the center pins and remove the fasteners. Some of these may get damaged, so a few spares ready.
To dislodge front bumper fascia, do it on just one side at a time, ensuring though, that the others side is sufficiently loose.
Looking at the inner front of the wheel arches locate the single TORX headed screw.
Unscrew for about ¼ inch (6mm) them tap in. This will release the edge of the bumper fascia from the wheel arch. Now using some gentle hand force, lift the released edge of the bumper, and pull outwards, this will release the upper edge of the
Removing the Headlight Unit
There are two electrical connections to the headlamp unit each retained by a wire clip. It is not necessary to remove these clips, just push in past the seated position, and with its grip thus released, the plug can be pulled out of the connector.
The headlamp assembly is held by just four 10mm screws:
Two at the top that connects the unit to the radiator support cross member.
Remove these bolts.
The third screw is at the lower outer edge of the unit and it connected to the edge of the fender (wing). Note that it is hidden from view by the plastic bumper fascia bracket, which must be trimmed slightly (one may use a Dremel with a universal cutter), as it stands about ¾ inches (19mm) proud of the metal. This will allow slipping on a 10mm socket for removing the screw. To gain access to this screw, you must dislodge the front bumper fascia.
The fourth screw is down near the lower inner edge of the unit. It connects the headlight unit to the vertical member framing the radiator, and is accessible from the front. To gain access to it, the bumper fascia must be pulled out sufficiently.
If your car has headlamp wipers, the wiper motor is mounted to lugs (ears) projecting from the lower edge of the headlamp unit with 2x - 10mm screws. It is simpler to remove these screws while the headlamp is attached to the car, but by the same token, it is easier to attach the motor back on before the headlight unit is fully installed in the vehicle, but do not fully tighten the screws until the unit is mounted. Do not forget the plastic closeout strip that goes between the motor and the mounting lugs on the headlamp unit.
There are just two main retaining bolts for the bumper. They are accessed from the front of the car by unclipping the left and/or right rounded plastic strip that is at mid height of the bumper. (Do this by inserting a thin wide metal edged tool).
Remove the two retaining bolts.
With a little heaving it should be possible to drop and tilt the bumper fascia a little.
You will now find that the head of the third (outer) headlamp retaining bolt is still obscured by a plastic clip assembly. Trim away the part of the plastic as described above, with a Dremel or other suitable means and slip on the 10mm socket, then remove the screw. Make certain that you don’t damage the painted fender though. There is some space, and if needed, slip in a thin metal shield temporarily.
Now you should be able to jiggle and remove the headlamp.
Now reverse the whole procedure to fit the new headlamp. But be forewarned, it’s tedious.
Changing the Glass Lens on the Headlight Assembly.
Have patience plenty; you will be tested doing this.
The glass lens is held on to the headlight plastic housing with spring clips. Remove the clips and keep them for re-assembly. The lens is further sealed/glued on to the plastic housing with urethane sealant, and must be heated sufficiently to soften the sealant so that the two parts can be pried apart. A heat gun works well, but keep blowing hot air steadily all around to heat soak the glass, but exercise care not to crack it. Keep prying the glass away form the housing with a fine flat bladed screw driver or other similar tool, but do not force it too much so as not to damage anything. I inserted 1 inch long finishing nails to keep the parts apart, and kept working them in gradually, applying heat all the while, until they finally separated. Remove as much of the old urethane as possible, without inflicting damage to the housing. You may get some of the softened urethane sealant on to the housing’s mirror surfaces, where there should not be anyJ . Clean it off with solvent, such as Varsol, then wash to residue off with methyl hydrate, and wipe with a clean soft cloth.
Now it’s time to do a preliminary check on how the two parts mate. Make sure you have a good mental note, before proceeding to the next step.
Prepare for assembling the new lens on to the housing by applying a continuous thin bead of light or medium gray urethane sealant on the mating edges of the lens and of the housing. Make certain that the glass lens is supported upside down on a flat soft surface (old carpet, or something similar) and carefully bring the housing into contact with it. Wipe off any access sealant around the outside, and install the spring clips. Now you are ready to install the unit back in the car.
Good luck with it. And have lots of patience.
Begin by removing/loosening the bumper fascia
Removing the Bumper Fascia
Open the hood (bonnet). There are 6 plastic push-in fasteners attaching the tope edge of the bumper fascia to the radiator support cross member. Drill a 1/8 inch hole in each of the 6 push-in plastic fastener center pins, and part way drive in a suitable self-tapping screw. Pull up the center pins and remove the fasteners. Some of these may get damaged, so a few spares ready.
To dislodge front bumper fascia, do it on just one side at a time, ensuring though, that the others side is sufficiently loose.
Looking at the inner front of the wheel arches locate the single TORX headed screw.
Unscrew for about ¼ inch (6mm) them tap in. This will release the edge of the bumper fascia from the wheel arch. Now using some gentle hand force, lift the released edge of the bumper, and pull outwards, this will release the upper edge of the
Removing the Headlight Unit
There are two electrical connections to the headlamp unit each retained by a wire clip. It is not necessary to remove these clips, just push in past the seated position, and with its grip thus released, the plug can be pulled out of the connector.
The headlamp assembly is held by just four 10mm screws:
Two at the top that connects the unit to the radiator support cross member.
Remove these bolts.
The third screw is at the lower outer edge of the unit and it connected to the edge of the fender (wing). Note that it is hidden from view by the plastic bumper fascia bracket, which must be trimmed slightly (one may use a Dremel with a universal cutter), as it stands about ¾ inches (19mm) proud of the metal. This will allow slipping on a 10mm socket for removing the screw. To gain access to this screw, you must dislodge the front bumper fascia.
The fourth screw is down near the lower inner edge of the unit. It connects the headlight unit to the vertical member framing the radiator, and is accessible from the front. To gain access to it, the bumper fascia must be pulled out sufficiently.
If your car has headlamp wipers, the wiper motor is mounted to lugs (ears) projecting from the lower edge of the headlamp unit with 2x - 10mm screws. It is simpler to remove these screws while the headlamp is attached to the car, but by the same token, it is easier to attach the motor back on before the headlight unit is fully installed in the vehicle, but do not fully tighten the screws until the unit is mounted. Do not forget the plastic closeout strip that goes between the motor and the mounting lugs on the headlamp unit.
There are just two main retaining bolts for the bumper. They are accessed from the front of the car by unclipping the left and/or right rounded plastic strip that is at mid height of the bumper. (Do this by inserting a thin wide metal edged tool).
Remove the two retaining bolts.
With a little heaving it should be possible to drop and tilt the bumper fascia a little.
You will now find that the head of the third (outer) headlamp retaining bolt is still obscured by a plastic clip assembly. Trim away the part of the plastic as described above, with a Dremel or other suitable means and slip on the 10mm socket, then remove the screw. Make certain that you don’t damage the painted fender though. There is some space, and if needed, slip in a thin metal shield temporarily.
Now you should be able to jiggle and remove the headlamp.
Now reverse the whole procedure to fit the new headlamp. But be forewarned, it’s tedious.
Changing the Glass Lens on the Headlight Assembly.
Have patience plenty; you will be tested doing this.
The glass lens is held on to the headlight plastic housing with spring clips. Remove the clips and keep them for re-assembly. The lens is further sealed/glued on to the plastic housing with urethane sealant, and must be heated sufficiently to soften the sealant so that the two parts can be pried apart. A heat gun works well, but keep blowing hot air steadily all around to heat soak the glass, but exercise care not to crack it. Keep prying the glass away form the housing with a fine flat bladed screw driver or other similar tool, but do not force it too much so as not to damage anything. I inserted 1 inch long finishing nails to keep the parts apart, and kept working them in gradually, applying heat all the while, until they finally separated. Remove as much of the old urethane as possible, without inflicting damage to the housing. You may get some of the softened urethane sealant on to the housing’s mirror surfaces, where there should not be anyJ . Clean it off with solvent, such as Varsol, then wash to residue off with methyl hydrate, and wipe with a clean soft cloth.
Now it’s time to do a preliminary check on how the two parts mate. Make sure you have a good mental note, before proceeding to the next step.
Prepare for assembling the new lens on to the housing by applying a continuous thin bead of light or medium gray urethane sealant on the mating edges of the lens and of the housing. Make certain that the glass lens is supported upside down on a flat soft surface (old carpet, or something similar) and carefully bring the housing into contact with it. Wipe off any access sealant around the outside, and install the spring clips. Now you are ready to install the unit back in the car.
Good luck with it. And have lots of patience.
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