Embarking on A Radiator Replacement
#1
Embarking on A Radiator Replacement
All,
New to the forum. I have 2004 2.5T, about 120k on it and aside from atrocious turning radius I still love it. However,the flange where the upper radiator hose attaches is cracked and leaking at a slow/moderate rate. I think I am going to take on this replacement myself. Doesn't look too bad, but my main question to this group is do I need to order any additional parts to complete the replacement? By that I mean, seals, gaskets clips or anything like that? I'd hate to get everything out and be ready to finish up and have to potentially wait another couple of days for a small part to arrive. I'm probably going to go ahead and replace the hoses since I don't know when they were done.
New to the forum. I have 2004 2.5T, about 120k on it and aside from atrocious turning radius I still love it. However,the flange where the upper radiator hose attaches is cracked and leaking at a slow/moderate rate. I think I am going to take on this replacement myself. Doesn't look too bad, but my main question to this group is do I need to order any additional parts to complete the replacement? By that I mean, seals, gaskets clips or anything like that? I'd hate to get everything out and be ready to finish up and have to potentially wait another couple of days for a small part to arrive. I'm probably going to go ahead and replace the hoses since I don't know when they were done.
#2
Just need radiator and should do upper/lower hoses at same time. Should technically replace the clamps, I'm not a fan of reusing them. I can get mine a walk away for cheaper than online.
I'm doing the same thing hopefully this afternoon, except it seems on mine the passenger-side tank is leaking. Bought upper/lower hoses too. UPS says it's on their truck on its way here. Nice thing about FCP is UPS Ground comes next day for me. I also bought an air foil (the big ABS plastic piece under radiator) since someone had broken a clip previously, and in a tense moment I broke the other. LOL.
I'm doing the same thing hopefully this afternoon, except it seems on mine the passenger-side tank is leaking. Bought upper/lower hoses too. UPS says it's on their truck on its way here. Nice thing about FCP is UPS Ground comes next day for me. I also bought an air foil (the big ABS plastic piece under radiator) since someone had broken a clip previously, and in a tense moment I broke the other. LOL.
#4
Should also mention that Type IV (aka Type 4) transmission fluid is the standard. I have BeckArnley Type IV showing up at my local O'R.... tomorrow.
While standing and looking at the job at hand; new radiator & hoses at my side, I also decided I'm going to remove/clean the throttle body as it will be super easy to get to with fan & radiator removed.
While standing and looking at the job at hand; new radiator & hoses at my side, I also decided I'm going to remove/clean the throttle body as it will be super easy to get to with fan & radiator removed.
#6
I'm almost 1/2 way into my radiator replacement right now. Just have to remove lower transmission cooler line and drain into a container and remove the bolts. If you're doing the lower radiator hose, you'll need to remove the airbox. It's a lot of "removing this, moving that and disconnecting that" process. It's fairly simple really. Have to find the throttle body removal video so I can flush that out while I 'm here and there's nothing in the way.
#7
Don't do it at home, bring it to a Volvo or independent Volvo specialist.
The radiator/intercooler/AC condenser are sandwiched with (4) 10mm bolts about 3" long. The whole assembly is held in by the two 12mm vertical bolts that go through the radiator body on side tanks and two 10mm bolts on top on front facia nose. You take out as 1 complete unit by disconnecting the 5 radiator lines (upper/lower/tank & 2 transmission lines), disconnect the intercooler lines and remove the AC evaporator lines (after properly recovering the R132a). You have to evacuate the AC system and disconnect the lines (and thus have the AC system evacuated again and refilled).
In the middle of a **** show in my driveway with car on ramps. Don't be like me thinking it'll be as simple as a regular car. Lesson learned on this repair!
The radiator/intercooler/AC condenser are sandwiched with (4) 10mm bolts about 3" long. The whole assembly is held in by the two 12mm vertical bolts that go through the radiator body on side tanks and two 10mm bolts on top on front facia nose. You take out as 1 complete unit by disconnecting the 5 radiator lines (upper/lower/tank & 2 transmission lines), disconnect the intercooler lines and remove the AC evaporator lines (after properly recovering the R132a). You have to evacuate the AC system and disconnect the lines (and thus have the AC system evacuated again and refilled).
In the middle of a **** show in my driveway with car on ramps. Don't be like me thinking it'll be as simple as a regular car. Lesson learned on this repair!
#9
radiater replacement
You can hold the condenser and after-cooler up with zip ties, then drop the radiator out the bottom. If you unbolt the wire loom below the ac compressor it will give you a little extra room. Order the green clips that hold the trans cooler lines in. They get brittle and break.
Last edited by dsharp; 02-06-2016 at 11:14 PM.
#10
I recreated the sandwich and they went in nice. Only issue is the Behr radiator molded clips the cooling fan slides into are incorrect. Broke them clean off. I think they thought the narrow gap at the bottom was the correct one to make all the way to the top. Awaiting return decision and buying Volvo. Lesson learned, no more less expensive stuff. If the Valeo was available at my favorite online store, would have bought that (being the OEM manufacturer).
#12
- remove both intercooler pipes and upper radiator hose, remove coolant line that runs along the top to the coolant reservoir
- unplug and remove bolts for fan shroud, this can be pulled out up the top with a little finesse
- disconnect transmission lines to radiator and plug them so they dont leak (green quick connect on the driver side)
- remove lower radiator hose from radiator, if replacing, remove intake pipe from airbox to the turbo to access other end
- support radiator and intercooler from underneath so it doesn't fall down
- remove bolts for radiator and pull out the top
reverse to assemble and fill with coolant. Let the car run for a little and check transmission fluid level after and top off what is needed.
I do believe these radiators can go out the bottom or the top. It was easy enough for me to pull it out the top so that's what I did in the past. Hopefully I didn't miss any steps for you, it's not too bad of a replacement.
Last edited by Dingus1; 06-01-2022 at 06:33 AM.
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