I recently bought a '99 v70xc from a friend of mine who couldn't afford to have the fuel pump replaced (diagnosed by a mechanic).

I cranked the engine over a few times and found no fuel pressure at the rail, and I would like to test the fuel pump when I have it out. I have the hole cut under the rear seat and the fuel pump is exposed ready to come out.

For you people who are experienced in this repair, is this necessary (to bench test thing thing once it's out)? Or should I just go ahead and swap the pump?

I'm planning on using the HighFlowFuel replacement pump, and I'm told that the Neon SRT4 pump is a near-direct replacement.

I'm wary of buying a fuel pump I don't need. Maybe I"m being overly cautious.

 

I might have answered my own question. I jumped the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump is working, but the engine will not run. It'll sputter for half a second and die.

And when I have the relay in, the fuel pump will cut on and off as it should, but doesn't seem to be building pressure unless I have the jumper wire in.

I think this is indicative of a dying fuel pump. Can anyone confirm this?

 

I'm not sure what kind of bench test would give you a better result than jumping the relay and finding no fuel pressure. Your choice obviously.

As for the pump though, I put the SRT pump in an XC I had a couple years ago and it worked fine. As I recall, the "it's real close" part had something to do with the strainer that's shaped differently. I don't remember exactly, but it worked.

 

Okay. Just for clarification, it seems to build a small amount of pressure when I use the jumper. But if the relay is working on its own, no fuel pressure. Although you can hear the fuel pump kicking on and off (or, just staying on when using the jumper wire). Either way, there's only enough fuel for the car to sputter when I try to start it.

Will see about getting my hands on that SRT4 pump.

 

I would guess the pump is dead, which you indicated was verified by a mechanic. With the relay in place, it cycles on and off and builds no pressure. When you put the jumper wire in, it runs constantly. That might build enough pressure to make it sputter briefly.

 

Do you remember if you had to modify that pump to get it to work? I seem to recall hearing that it's slightly shorter than the factory pump.

 

I don't really remember. It's been a couple years, and lots of cars have come and gone in between then. I think the housing where it mounts had to be modified

 

I do have one more question.

Multiple forums have said to cut the wiring so as to leave as much of the wiring harness intact as possible for when you reconnect. I might have cut off TOO much. I have very little wire left on top of the lid where the fuel lines connect.

Do you remember where you reconnected the wiring the new fuel pump? I'm still waiting on mine to show up, but looking at the housing now that I have it out, it appears that I'll make my fuel pump connection below that lid, and then reconnect the wiring above the lid to the wire harness.

I might have enough to do the job. One of the wires has only about 1/4 inch left, and I think it could be just enough to resolder the wire harness back together before dropping it back in the tank. But I may have taken the suggestion to "leave as much of the harness intact as possible" a bit too literally.

 

Sorry, but I really don't recall. Like I said, it was a couple years ago, and it was a pretty straight forward install. Usually the difficult ones are the ones I remember.

Personally, I wouldn't be cutting stuff until you have the new parts in hand, but it's probably too late for that now.