First thread (of many I am sure) on here. I just bought an 04 V70 2.4: NON-turbo. Car runs solid. All kinds of previous work with receipts EXCEPT the oil trap replacement. Car runs great but with check engine light on took it to dealership for free initial diagnosis. Upon removing oil cap, loud vacuum pop and the idle leveled out. Said it was the oil trap and associated hoses. No leaks on the engine yet.

I've looked on her for a tutorial specific to my car but mostly see 850 tutorials. Is there something specif to the 2004 V70 that I can use as guidance? I'm not a mechanic but have turned a wrench in my day and am not scared to jump in to a project (pending it's not a massive undertaking. This one doesn't sound bad from what I'm reading).

I ordered the oil trap from FCP along with the intake manifold gasket. FCP said I need to worry about replacing the hoses so I didn't order them. Not sure if I'm gonna be kicking myself over that one later...

Any help would be great appreciated!

 

You need to order the hoses, its an 04 they been on the car way to long. While your at it you will want to clean the etm with some throttle body cleaner. So that means you need an etm gasket as well. Its a pretty easy job to do. make sure you remove the radiator fan and shroud to give you some room to work. There will be a few hoses and wires to disconnect so check whats connected before you go pulling on anything. Last thing I can think to mention is the banjo bold under the intake manifold, thats attached to a part of your pcv system and that hose is close to 200.00, I have seen people change all but that and still had problems after. If you want to remove that hose and clean it , oven off works great ...just try not to breath the fumes and make sure its clean and dry before reinstalling it.

 

Is the ETM easy to access and clean? I'll search around on here.

I started working on it tonight after work. Pulled the fuel line and noticed that at least 2/5 rubber o-rings were missing. I don't think they fell off but will know more once I get the intake manifold off.

 

John Arsenault , you are saying spray oven cleaner in the $200 hose to clean it? How do you get the cleaner our without baking it?

 

After much fuss, I got the lower left manifold bolt broke loose. Wow was that a bear. Now to the lower intake bolt; how the HECK do you access it? From teh top it is near impossible! One the upper 10mm bolts are loose/removed, is the lower bolt under the intake the only thing holding it?

 

Managed to get at the 12mm lower intake from under the car with a few extension on my 1/2" breaker bar. Got everything pulled off and found that this has probably never been done in the 158k on the car! A LOT of sludge build-up in oil trap and lower port on the engine block. I also noticed the back side of the throttle body was coated in carbon/sludge so that is getting cleaned with a new gasket. Intake manifold and engine ports were pretty heavily carbonized as well.

Here is the 10mm lower left intake bolt that is unable to be removed. It is stuck behind the alloy with upper radiator hose attached:


Lower engine block port sludge:


Upper engine block port sludge:


Oil trap:

 

Used the water hose to flush that out sorry I was not clear on that. I use to race motorcycles and oven off is how would break up carbon that built up inside out exhaust. Oven off is just a real harsh cleaner I'll repete don't breath it and don't get it in your eyes. In order to clean the hose you will have to remove the hose. Look at the job you have there I think I may consider buying the expensive hose.

I use a swivel socket and an extension to remove all the intake bolts. hope that helps. Last question was the etm cleaning ...should be pretty clear once its off as you will see the grime.

Are you putting on a new canister or just cleaning that one? I'll be honest I cleaned mine I could not see any reason to spend the money on something I could clean.

If I caught you in time while your down there take the wir compressor and GENTLY push a little air though you PCV return line (the one that goes into the oil pan) to make sure its clear. You may get a little seepage come up from the dipstick tube so have a rag handy ...when your done with the job , change oil....

 

John Arsenault thanks for all the tips. What is the expensive hose to which you are referring? I bought the hose for the oil trap going to the top of the engine. Perhaps I'm missing one? I'd be most curious to use the oven cleaner for a trial if mine is in fact dirty (and I can figure out what hose it is ).

I spoke with FCP today and he mentioned as well using light psi air on teh lower oil trap port. He also mentioned, with the oil sump drained, to listen for air coming into/out of the oil drain plug. Using that, one can try and discern if the lower sump port is blocked. Seems to make sense. Figure I'll try that before I get everything back together.

I'm hoping with all this stuff I'm doing now, it will be good to go for a good while.

 

Ok remember when you removed that banjo bolt from the bottom of the intake .....thats the hose! ...when looking at the car from the front the hose will go to your right and wrap around the side of your engine, its metal with rubber.

If I did it right here is a picture of what it looks like

http://www.swedishautoparts.com/cati...?mt=1349113158

 

I don't see that hose on the parts list at FCP for my non-turbo car and I don't recall seeing one on it. I'll head out to the garage tonight and give it another look. The only bolt I removed on the bottom of the intake was a solid 12mm bolt which essentially bolt the intake manifold to a removable motor mount. I had a few people tell me that my car (04 V70 non-turbo) does not have a banjo bolt, that there are (2?) on the turbo version.
.
This is the only crankcase hose listed at FCP for my car: Volvo Crankcase Vent Hose (Valve Cover to Oil Trap) - Genuine Volvo 9497534 | FCP Euro

 

Aaah yes your lucky you don't have one.

 

Did you pull the oil pan on yours when you replaced the oil trap? I was told by dealer depending on how sludged up the oil trap was that it may be necessary to pull oil pan and clean that port as well.

Also, what type of clamps did you use when replacing the oil trap? I ended up cutting the original (?) ones to get the hoses off and am wondering if I should try and get replacements from the dealer or elsewhere.

 

I had my assistant blow about 20psi of air into the lower engine oil trap port last night while I was under the car near the empty oil sump drain plug. I was told by FCP to do this and if you could hear air coming through, the lower sump port was not blocked.

Anyone have any comments on this method? Car has 158k and it looks like the sump pan was never pulled. Not entirely sure how often the O-rings in the sump need replaced.

 

Bump on this... I have noticed since I completed this project a few months ago that my CEL had been on ever since. Had codes pulled & was related to catalytic converter. Reset it and came on after 20 miles or so. Worked outside in the middle of winter & let car run near all day to keep me warm . CEL cleared itself & stayed of fit a few days only to come back on & stay on. Wondering if this is engaged to cleaning parts with throttle body cleaner and maybe some residual carbon somehow got sick on catalytic interior. No way I'm spending $1k+ on a new cat.

 

Update, I've just recently noticed a small but consistent high pitched hum coming from the engine bay. If I remove the oil cover it immediately goes away and it seems to be slightly influenced by the ac (off versus on). I made the mistake of going too long between oil changes on conventional 5w-30 (guessing 5k miles). Any ideas what this may be? I'm hoping there isn't sludge built up that fast to clog all the work I just did.

Any input would be appreciated.

 

You mean the noise goes away when you remove the oil fill cap ? Was the pcv oil passage inside the oil pan clean ?

 

Yes, I ran low psi compressed air through the lower oil trap port and could hear it coming out the drain plug port (obviously oil was drained). I also ran a small piece of 14 gauge wire through the lower port about 12-18 inches to try and free up any sludge. I was told the compressed air was a good indication the passage inside the oil pan was clean.

 

Noise is still there. Perhaps I should change to Mobil1 high mileage oil to try and clean out some of the engine sludge. Or drop the oil pan and clean out that port...?

 

So I switched over to Mobil full synthetic high mileage last oil chance and with about 1,000 miles into the new change, the whistling noise that initially accompanied the blocked PCV system is back, and seemingly louder. I can't imagine that the entire PCV would get clogged that soon, would it? The only thing that I did not do initially was drop the oil pan and clean that port. Should I do that in hopes that it will mend my vacuum problem with the PCV system? If so, it is a hard job to do? I thought I recall reading that the engine needed jacked up in order to gain access to all the oil pan bolts.

I also read that rather than drop the oil sump pan, to change only the filter ever 1,000 miles or so to try and clean any sludge. The last two oil changes I definitely noticed sludge on the filter pleat. What that be a worthy course of action?

 

You may try to locate the noise using a long 1" tube/hose, one end keep it close to your ears, the other end moving it near the engine (careful with the moving serpentine belt). If the pcv is clogged - possibly the oil pan passage, pressurized air is escaping either by the main engine seal, or by the upper camshafts seals (under the top of the timing belt cover). Try removing the upper timing belt cover (two torx screws and two front and rear clips) and look for oil leaks over the belt.
Finally, looking again at the pictures of the clogged pcv box, the lower port was clogged solid so even the pressurized air probably didn't reveal that the oil passage inside the oil pan was almost blocked. Also, sludge inside the pan is not healthy for the rod bearings.
If you decide to drop the pan, drain the oil and filter the night before, so you don't have it leaking all over the place when the pan is out. And check again the pcv box is cleared, maybe it can clog up quickly if the oil pan passage is clogged.