So my battery lasts half a day then is completely dead later. I took mt6127's advice and checked the battery draw and it is 800ma which seems way high and now I'd like some advise as to tracking it down. Most all the accessories seem to be working. Maybe removing certain fuses and checking again but i'd like to make more of an educated guess. The op said the car was sitting a long time , whatever that means. I tried the battery from my other car and same thing, so not the battery. Also I started the car and then disconnected the battery and it kept running with bright headlights.

 

standard process is to start removing fuses and then relays while watching the current level. Sitting for a long time wouldn't have anything to do with the current draw - but it may point to a need to recharge or replace the battery, particularly if its over 4 years old.

 

That's a good way to damage your alternator and is not recommended. The battery acts as a capacitor and absorbs spikes in the electrical system.

 

So i took out every fuse and relay in the box and still 800ma drain... I did discover that the sunroof leaks and the vanity lights are dead and the buttons don't push in like a button should so gonna remove that next. now I leave the battery unhooked at night.

 

Well it wasn't the Overhead console lights or sunroof, i unhooked them and tested no change (though the sunroof doesn't work). But now after dinking around with it a couple days i now have over 4amps drain! Whats left that doesn't go through the fusebox that could drain so much power but still run ok with no problems?

 

It's very difficult to check for a drain on the battery of a modern Volvo. Every time you open a door or move a fuse you might turn on another control unit. It might take a couple of minutes for that/those control units to turn off. Hopefully you are using a inductive non contact ammeter - connecting and disconnecting the battery turns control units on. Any open door, hood trunk will turn on a control unit -

Does the alarm work normally? If the alarm does not sound - I would start by disconnecting the alarm siren module -

 

I believe it works at least the flashing lights and the red led at night though I never tried the panic button or siren. And if it goes through the fuse box i already tried. I will check it out though someone on a different forum suggested one of the alternator diodes so going to check that next...

 

Make sure the alarm siren module works. Roll down drivers widow, lock car, wait 20 seconds, pretend to break drivers window and pull the lock stick up and open the door. Does the alarm sound and the lights flash? If not your siren module is bad and could be draining your battery. Either disconnect it (not just pull the fuse) or replace it.

 

Tested the alarm and it works, though its a horn not a siren. So I want to remove the alternator to check the diodes. Any tricks for removing? It looks pretty tight in there. BTW I found another fuse box in the rear and removed each of the fuses and relays and checked the drain with my meter(not a clamp-on) and still 4 amps draw

 

Same thought - especially trying to use a hard wired ammeter.

It's very difficult to check for a drain on the battery of a modern Volvo. Every time you open a door or move a fuse you might turn on another control unit. It might take a couple of minutes for that/those control units to turn off. Hopefully you are using a inductive non contact ammeter - connecting and disconnecting the battery turns control units on. Any open door, hood trunk will turn on a control unit - glancing at the sky with clamped hands saying pleasant words will turn a control unit on!

What year and what engine is your car? How old is your battery? What brand/size/part number of battery is installed?

 

Its a 2002 V70 non-turbo The battery is less than 6 mos. looks like it was bought from the AAA after a breakdown possibly. But i don't think its the battery cause i switched it with the one in my mercedes and they both work fine. Its only if i leve the battery hooked up at night or for a few hours is when it dies. So i've been unhooking it and the battery is stiil charged after a week and made several trips. I just ordered a clampon ammeter from amazon so ill be able to check things out better.

 

Parasitic draw testing.
Open what ever opening you need to and then close the latches to simulate them being closed. Store the key away from the car. Hook your meter between the battery ground post and cable. If using the clamp meter watch how it is positioned, the clamp meter I use at work has a 2 amp setting and it can make a difference to the reading if is to close to the body or some thing creating a field.
Let things sit for at least 10 minutes. This should be long enough to let the systems go to sleep.
This when you can check the draw reading.

 

Good to know... i'll do that next time.