2.4 base here with the manual trans. I had my clutch done maybe 20k ago when the slave cylinder went. They put that bugger in the housing next to the clutch... Recently I've noticed my clutch engagement to be higher on the pedal and more abrupt. Maybe 20% into the clutch is where 80% of the engagment/disengagement happens. It used to be much more linear. Sometimes I feel it's like it used to be, but more often than not, it feels like I've described. Could this 'self adjusting' clutch master cylinder be at fault? I have 117k miles on the car and it's probably the original master cylinder, and maybe even original brake fluid. I've had it since 80k and I've never done it.

My disclaimer: I have a (bad?) habit of trying to double-clutch heel-toe on downshifts and depending on footwear I can be better or worse at it. I've gone through high performance driving school, so I thoroughly understand the concept of it, but I'm certainly not an expert. When I'm not hitting each downshift just right, it's not slipping like a beginner trying to drive stick would, but rather it causes an abrupt shock to the car. Not good of course, but not causing glazing/overheating of the clutch material. I figure my behavior would affect engine mounts before the clutch.

 

I'm realizing now it could be a glazed clutch. I bought a bluetooth OBDII reader to check codes and timing. It also offered estimated 0-60 times, 1/8 and 1/4 mile speeds and times, etc. I did maybe 6-12 standing start pulls, and I didn't dump the clutch to let the tires spin, so I did a bit of feathering. I don't remember smelling burning clutch so I can't be sure, but it would make enough sense considering the symptoms. If it is a glazed clutch I wonder if I can wear through the glazed material; I mean, if the clutch is going to wear out at some point, and I don't overheat it, then I have to wear through material, hopefully finding un-glazed friction material at some point, right?