Maybe it was different design teams with slightly different philosophies or maybe they realized how silly my car is.

 

Have you driven a Foooorrrrrddddd, lately?

 

Turn the key the other way in the lock
Yes I have driven a Foooooord lately.My 2004 Mustang drop top.

 

My daughter's 2002 Ford has a keyslot in the tailgate. Your point?

I've owned a dozen or so cars since I started driving forty years ago and this Volvo is the first car that I've had that was designed to keep me from getting my tool kit in case of a electrical failure.

 

The post 2000 Volvo's are Ford manufactured.

 

No they are not.

 

And now the Chinese own Volvo. Do Fords or Chinese cars lock you out of your own car by design?

 

So when did Ford own Volvo? Everywhere I have read claim Volvo was under Ford ownership from 2000 to somewhere near 2011.

 

Ownership and manufacturing are not the same thing. A company does not buy a car company and then instantly start building the cars. Ford never actually built them. They did share the P1 and P3 chassis'. The P2 was all Volvo. There was no change to the cars when Ford bought Volvo. Parts with "FoMoCo" stamped on them didn't show up on cars until the 2004.5 S40/V50. That shares a platform with the Mazda 3 I believe.

 

The Chinese will be building Volvo's soon, but only for their own market.

 

Yes, Ford owned Volvo and now some Chinese conglomerate has absorbed them, or become the financial partner (don't know the details).

Back to my locked car. Got it open with a few wooden weges, a pry bar and a couple wire ties. Put a leather glove on the roof, pryed the door gap against the heavy leather glove, inserted wood wedges (from Home depot for leveling windows and door frames etc), put a small loop on a wire tie, slipped the loop end into the gap, slid the wire tie down over the door lock button, pulled the wire tie tight,...slipped another wire tie onto the now very short tail of the first wire tie, and pulled up,...............done. Now that I know how to do this, I believe I could open the door in 30 seconds or less with zero damage.

Brian

 

So your door lock buttons are not sitting flush when locked but still stand up sufficient to hook the ties over?
That was fortunate. well done.
Now you need to track down the reason for your radiator fan running on too long and draining your battery.
First up, check temperature sensor,coolant level.

 

I'd say first up is to fix the door lock rod so the key will unlock it so you never run into this situation again. As I always lock/unlock with the remote, this thread has motivated me to verify that my key still works in the ONE vehicle lock.

 

My drivers door window regulator is broken,....or at least, the window is detached from the regulator. So, think I'll have a look in the door first

 

The linkage rod from the lock cylinder down to the latch mechanism is intact and attached. When I lock or unlock the doors with the remote, everything works fine, When I use the key in the door, the I can lock the driver's door normally, but when I try to unlock it with the key, although the linkage rod down to the latch moves, the lock/latch button only moves a small amount, maybe 1/4 inch or so. I see that there is the ability to adjust the lock cylinder to latch rod length, but only a small bit of adjustment is left.

Anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions?

Brian in Austin

 

SH&* - No key entry on the passenger side?? I haven't even noticed (just bought this). This happened to me (dead battery, no reason that I know of). The key DID open the door, however, the radio had to be recoded. I was able to give the vin to my dealer and she gave me the code pretty easily. But there is that hole for "skis" (in my case, I guess that would be water skis . . . Houston). You can pop through the trunk and push the piece out of the way anddddd, then I have no idea.

I just got a VERY bad body paint job on my quarter panel (live and learn . . . CRAIGSLIST -- GET A NAME AND LICENSE NUMBER AND RUN AN INDIVIDUAL THROUGH A SERVICE FOR RECORD!!!! HE WAS A DRUG DEALER). Anyway, he busted the piece that sits behind the headrest (back). I don't even know what to call it! And, then, I will have to figure out how to replace it. He also screwed up my top mechanism and it did not get in the resting place the first time (I won't mention the 208 miles, seemingly bottom out issue, grease and dog (cat?) hair all over cloth top, etc., in addition to the bad body work). I was PISSED. I AM PISSED. I did this to save a couple hundred and now I am in it up to my eyeballs. Does anyone know what to call that piece behind the rear headrest and how to get it in and out? Do you know where I can get this part? I can't seem to find it here with numerous attempts to search. Thanks! Oh!! My front window regulator had been replaced according to the person I purchased the car from. This is a 2004 with only 55k on it. But, good grief, how much can go wrong in 55k and sitting in a garage from a retired couple?? The driver's window seem to go up and down fine, but it sounded like it just DROPPED when about 4 inches from the bottom. Now, it is stuck. I can push it , but I am afraid of it getting in the door and not having enough to pull it back up (another thing I have to do). Any help here? New regulator again, you think? Thanks!! I love this car and planned on driving it to 300K. Now, I am think I need a second car for just in case!

 

I think that the V&0 is simply different than the V40.

I have had this problem as well wih my 2002.

I have no problem unlocking the car with the key----when there is power but not when the battery is dead.

I was able to get a locksmith to pop it with some help. You can grab on the ****. The issue is getting in there since the door fits so tightly.

At least now I know what to do------do not let the battery run down.

 

Some reports state that one can power the vehicle by connecting +12V to the starter or starter solenoid, and the other lead to a ground.

You could attach a wire to the +12V jumping terminal in the engine compartment and use this to power the vehicle in the event the battery would go flat again. The standard way to do this would be to install leads for a battery maintainer with the terminations accessible if the hood can't be opened. A drawback to this is that the insulation could wear through and short the +12V terminal. I installed a battery maintainer on a relative's car and I encased the +12V wire in an additional plastic insulating tube. The +12V wire of the maintainer has an inline fuse.

If I were going to do this on my V70, I would get an additional nut for the +12V terminal and would not disturb the existing nut securing the heavy cable from the battery.

Addition

I have not tried to open my driver's door with the key with the battery disconnected. I don't know from personal experience whether it would open or not.