Hey guys,
I've recently changed my front rotors and brake pads due to wear. As a newbie, I did everything wrong that could possibly be done wrong so plenty of air came into the system. Now the brake pedal is super spongy and brake performance is miserable. I've already done a complete flush, bled the brakes, changed the master cylinder, bled the master cylinder and bled the ABS and reset the ABS system. After a neighbor helped me to bleed the brakes again I feel like it became slightly better.

Apart from the worn-down pads the brakes were absolutely fine before I did the "repair". I somehow have the feeling that there is still air in the brake system as I can pump up the brake pedal and it's going to be super stiff as long as I keep it pushed as soon as I release it and wait for a couple of seconds the pedal is all spongy again.

Any ideas of what to do? Just keep on bleeding?

 

have you tried using a power bleeder that uses pressure to push/pull fluid through the system? Motive makes a pump style and if you have a compressor there are additional options (bet Harbor Freight has something )

 

No, unfortunately, I'm just a visitor here in L.A. and I don't have any tools at all. I did the old school brake pedal pump version.
I'm going to bring it to a workshop tomorrow morning. But I guess they don't have one of those power bleeders either.
Does it make that much of a difference?

I'm really super desperate. I and my girlfriend should already be on our way up north. This is the three weeks we both have together for driving through the U.S. and now this.

What else could it be? Brake Booster or ABS module? I guess if the ABS had some issue the light would be own. And the brake booster seems to work just fine. As I've just swapped the master cylinder today I'm pretty sure there is no internal leak.

 

I'd suspect there's still air in the master cylinder, particularly if the car doesn't pull or prematurely lock. Most shops will have a vacuum system to pull the fluid through.

 

How did you get air into the system when just replacing pads and rotors?

 

Elch noted he changed the master cylinder in the OP...

 

Maybe I misunderstood, but I read it as he did pads and rotors and somehow got air in the system. Then did all that other stuff to try to fix it.

 

LOL, I was wondering the same thing and had to go back and reread the post. not sure what "did everything wrong" means. To me that would be something like snapping off a bolt and having to drill out the stud :-)

 

Its best to bleed the master cyl on the bench before installing, the installed angle makes it near impossible to get an air bubble out because it is angled upward and the bubble is trapped at the end nearest the front of the car.

it can be done like this too.