Help..Bad master cylinder??
#1
Help..Bad master cylinder??
Okay I put new pads and rotors on all 4 corners. I bled the snot out of them and The pedal still goes to the floor. One pump and it feels okay. I took it to my local brake shop today and had them bleed it. The bled it manually and vacuum bled it with the same results. They're telling me I have a bad master cylinder. Something about the primary not working only the secondary??? Do I need a new master cylinder or is it something else?? Please help as I need to get this car back on the road.
Thanks,
Darrell
Thanks,
Darrell
#2
RE: Help..Bad master cylinder??
Update: I installed a new master cylinder and nothing has changed. After bleeding the system again same issue brake pedal goes to the floor with the engine running. With the engine off it feels great. Apparently know one here knows about this brake issue.
Darrell
Darrell
#3
RE: Help..Bad master cylinder??
Hi Darrell,
Greetings from Narita, Japan.
I'm sorry about the brake problem.
I'll try my best, but please note that I'm an 850 driver and do not usually go out of the 850 forum, as I do not have enough expertise to assist others in different forums.
Anyway, I personally am suspecting the following:
1. Still some air trapped in the system, most likely in the ABS Actuator unit.
2. Faulty Brake Booster (Master Bag).
Some ABS brakes require different bleeding methods and may require special tools/equipment. If not done properly, some air can still stay within the system.
However, I am thinking that No.2 may be more likely, as you have described that the brakes feel fine when the engine is off. I'll attach some pics on master cylinder & booster to see if they can give you any further ideas.
Generic brake shops may not be able to properly diagnose Volvos, unless the shop you went to specialises in Swedish/European makes. I know it is more costly, but I would go to a Volvo dealer and tell them exactly what you've done to cure the problem. One big advantage of the dealer is that they have database/experience as to what problems are likely to happen.
If that's the only car you have, I would definitely have it fixed asap. However, in any case if you must drive it as it is until repair is done, I would keep the shifter in the 2nd, drive slower than usual and use parking brake to assist whatever is left on the main brakes. But again, I do not recommend it.
I hope this is of some use.
JPN
[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/2C493ACF8533465BA6D8B09F0F4321FA.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/270DDDF3FDDC483B93B7D1EC14CAFF72.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/7B5D3B56E066481B90A985D0D51B57EE.jpg[/IMG]
Greetings from Narita, Japan.
I'm sorry about the brake problem.
I'll try my best, but please note that I'm an 850 driver and do not usually go out of the 850 forum, as I do not have enough expertise to assist others in different forums.
Anyway, I personally am suspecting the following:
1. Still some air trapped in the system, most likely in the ABS Actuator unit.
2. Faulty Brake Booster (Master Bag).
Some ABS brakes require different bleeding methods and may require special tools/equipment. If not done properly, some air can still stay within the system.
However, I am thinking that No.2 may be more likely, as you have described that the brakes feel fine when the engine is off. I'll attach some pics on master cylinder & booster to see if they can give you any further ideas.
Generic brake shops may not be able to properly diagnose Volvos, unless the shop you went to specialises in Swedish/European makes. I know it is more costly, but I would go to a Volvo dealer and tell them exactly what you've done to cure the problem. One big advantage of the dealer is that they have database/experience as to what problems are likely to happen.
If that's the only car you have, I would definitely have it fixed asap. However, in any case if you must drive it as it is until repair is done, I would keep the shifter in the 2nd, drive slower than usual and use parking brake to assist whatever is left on the main brakes. But again, I do not recommend it.
I hope this is of some use.
JPN
[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/2C493ACF8533465BA6D8B09F0F4321FA.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/270DDDF3FDDC483B93B7D1EC14CAFF72.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/6892/7B5D3B56E066481B90A985D0D51B57EE.jpg[/IMG]
#4
#6
RE: Help..Bad master cylinder??
I actually have the same problem, but have absolutely no brakes when the vehicle is on. It feels good when the vehicle is off and i just replaced the master cylinder and bled the brake lines to death. I"m assuming i'm going to have to replace the brake booster. Any advice would be appreciated.
#7
#10
RE: Help..Bad master cylinder??
Hello Antivole, sorry you are having all that trouble. If you think about it, there is no reason for the brake pedal to go to the floor one way or another. The pedal should be hard when the vehicle's engine is not running and slightly mushier when it is running. So, the pedal should behave similarly either way.
How did you bleed your brakes? Was the engine running or not?
I am not really familiar with Volvos but in VWs (circa 1990's) the system was a pressurized one that required special methods for the most basic tasks.
I would have to agree with tech regarding the air trapped in your lines. This assumes that all lines are sealed and that the master cylinder is in good condition and that there are no visible leaks anywhere.
Hope you get this solved soon.
regards,
Jim
How did you bleed your brakes? Was the engine running or not?
I am not really familiar with Volvos but in VWs (circa 1990's) the system was a pressurized one that required special methods for the most basic tasks.
I would have to agree with tech regarding the air trapped in your lines. This assumes that all lines are sealed and that the master cylinder is in good condition and that there are no visible leaks anywhere.
Hope you get this solved soon.
regards,
Jim
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