Hello all. I just purchase a 2001 V70T5 turbo. It has 155Km on it and it's an auto box.It's silver with a dark leather interior. It's also a project. I constantly look for decent cars in need of some TLC and have been quite lucky( touch wood). The PO had it for about 6 months and after 3 weeks had to do a head gasket, water pump , cam belt & new brakes. He says it drove fine for a while and then had the dreaded crank no start syndrome which he could not resolve. He couldn't afford to take it to the dealer so he tinkered with it himself and finally gave up and put it up for sale.

It looks great, no rust or dents , the tires are great , all the glass is good but of course it won't start. It did try to start but it wouldn't catch. I tried cranking it with the gas pedal floored for 30 seconds and let it sit for 10 minutes and tried to restart but no such luck it just randomly fired. I could smell gas. I also disconnected the battery and shorted to 2 leads for 20 seconds but it didn't make any difference. It does have an engine light on for a code but I didn't have my reader.

The final deal was good IMO since he accepted my Ford Taurus on part trade.So I don't have to worry about selling it.Plus we're leaving for 4 months in Mexico on Jan 1. We still have our ML320 which I resurrected from death over a year ago and it's still running fine. I'm not at all panicking over the Volvo problem but hope to have a quick solution. My brother is an X volvo mech so I'll lean on him. I'm considering fuel pump, cam sensor or crank sensor.The security system could be an issue but I'm not so sure.

At this point I know the direction I'll go with this. First I'll test the fuel pressure then check the sensors.I made sure the cam was turning .I did check the cam sensor connection and it looked ok. I couldn't get to the crank senor. I'm hoping the mech who did the head gasket didn't plug it back in properly.Time will tell.

 

So far I've checked the fuel pressure which is 51 lbs. I checked the plugs and all are getting a nice bright blue spark. I don't really smell any gas on them only a very light odure de gaz.The cam belt looks fairly new with no cracks and it seems to have good tension. There are no codes!

However, there is very few injector pulses.When the car is first cranked I can see the pulse with my test light but after a few seconds it's gone. The injectors have +12V on one side.

I'm leaning to the antenna ring. There's no OBD2 codes and the security system can cause a crank no start. That and the fact that the antenna ring is the original made in 2000. Also, a Volvo mech here did say it was probable in that case. The dealer here has the part $77. I may snag it before we leave on our 4 month vacation. Also, it's the cheapest part to replace. I was leaning towards a bad cam sensor but again there was no code (P0340 I think).

I have to work outside and our weather has been poor lately .The garage is a shrine to my bike.

 

If the cam sensor was bad you would not be getting spark. I would check compression, maybe it has a burnt valve.

 

Good score ! I checked the cam belt timing and it was fine. However, #1,2 & 3 cyclinders have 0 compression...4 & 5 have 120 lbs. I think I know why it doesn't start. When I took the plugs out today I could see gas on top of each cylinder. So the injectors were ..injecting.It looks like I'll be re doing the head in May when we return.

 

Here's something you can try real quick:
1. Pull the plugs and let all the gas dry out.
2. Pour about a table spoon full of oil into each cylinder.
3. Clean off the plugs and make sure they are gapped properly.
4. Re-install the plugs.
5. Crank the heack out of it for about 30 seconds and see if it starts.

The oil will help it built compression if you don't have bent or burnt valves. My guess is that it doesn't have burnt valves due to so many of them being low on compression.

 

RSPI, thanks for the post. I was going to stop any work for now but I will give your recommenations a try. I did pull the fuel pump fuse and cranked the old gas out with the plugs removed. I then put all the plugs and fuses back in but disconnected the injector harness for 1-3. It fired but wouldn't start .I guess 2 out of 5 won't cut it. I should also dump the contaminated oil and use a heavier grade maybe some straight 30 weight.

I also think that having 3 dead cylinders is strange. I would expect to see at least some compression, even 10 lbs but it only shows as 0 lbs. Are the lifters hydraulic? If so can they drain down and cause no compression? Is this a symptom of bore wash that I've read about here? If so why only 3 and not all 5?? SO many questions, so few answers

 

I charged the battery all nite. I checked all the coil packs & #3 was not working It was verified by swapping it with a known good one.The plugs are the correct Bosch units and brand new. They were all wet.I checked the fuel injectors and removed the rail. With the ignition on there was no leakage. When the car cranked the injectors sprayed fuel evenly. However, injector #1 has a missing seal...I suspect a giant vacuum leakage. So I need 1 coil pack and new injector seals .

If I removed the fuel pump fuse it would try to start and run poorly for a short while until it died. If I tried starting it with the fuel pump fuse in it didn't run at all and barely fired. It like it's flooding.

I did another compression test today also. Cyl 1,2,4 were 0 lbs.Cyl 3 & 5 were 120/130lbs. Previously cyl 4 & 5 had 120 lbs. I'm confused. So 1 new coil pack and a new set of injector seals for #1 cyl. This may have to wait until we return from vacation.

Thanks for any assistance given.

 

Ok...after 4 months in Mexico I'm back working on this thing. I'm starting to pull the head.I have the intake manifold off and have removed all the bolts on the exhaust manifold and turbo. I pulled the top cover and found bad(bent valves ) in cyl # 1 & 4 exhaust & #2 intake. You can see that the valves aren't returning to upper position but are stuck in the down position causing the loss of compression.This matches my no compression issue. I'll get to removing the head in a day or 2. Does the turbo have to be removed to get the head out? Some of the exhaust studs are still in the head. If the turbo has to come out what's the best(easiest) way to do it? I have all of the fasteners off the turbo .I assume to remove the turbo I have to disconnect all the metal pipes at the turbo. I plan to talk nice to it and buy it dinner before I remove it if I have to.

As an observation I noticed all the fasteners were fairly easy to remove. I'm sure the head gasket was done before I bought it.In particular the proper gasket liquid wasn't used on the top cover. I suspect a faulty cam belt tensioner may have caused the damage. I'll make sure to replace it. The cam belt looks ok , again I'll probably replace it.

Updates will be forthcoming.

 

Today I went about trying to get the head off. I undid most of the bolts and banjo fitting on the turbo and disconnected anything elese I could find. I removed the head bolts and some didn't feel like they were on very tight. Most of the head bolts groaned and complained as the torque was released but 2 or 3 seemed a lot easier to come off. I then removed the head which went quite well even without any help.

The head overall, looked to be in great shape like it was renewed not long ago but the problem is about 6 of the valves are bent probably during a tensioner failure. The cylinder are in excellent shape with lots of good cross hatch. Three pistons had minor damage where the valve hit the piston but nothing serious at all. I'll take the head in on Monday and get an estimate. I was very happy with the condition of the cylinders,pistons and head ( not withstanding the bent valves.

 

The shop called today with the estimate to repair the head. It's about $730. It seems all the exhaust valves are bent .The intakes are good. So with gaskets & new head bolts it'll be a tad over $1000..eeep ! I'll visit them tomorrow and plead for a lower price.

Well, the head should be onel in a week or so. It was interesting talking to the shop. None of the valve guides were damaged but the valves were bent. This wasn't done while driving otherwise the guides would be damaged. It points to a sudden failure of some kind, probably the tensioner, and the valves were bent during cranking. I'm also replacing the cam belt , pulley & tensioner. The WP looks good with no weeping or slack in the pump shaft.

 

I picked up the reconditioned head today and at least it looks great !They replaced the valve stem seals too. I also had them source the head bolts and gasket set. If the weather cooperates this week I'll try to at least place and torque the head to the block.

Is it recommended to use the copper spray on the head gasket?

The head does look nice ; for over $700 !! 10 new exhaust valves !

 

Today I spent a little time prepping the head for install.I put in new studs for the exhaust and placed the exhaust gaskets now so I don't forget !!! I also mounted the t-stat housing. I then placed and locked the cams in the head without the top cover and set about removing the VVT unit. WELL!!! I never ...felt so much torque on the access plug .It was on VERY tight. I managed to get it removed and proceeded with the VVT unit itself. As it turns out it wasn't as tight as the cover !!! Possibly the VVT unit wasn't tight enough and shifted causing the exhaust valves to hit the pistons! I hope that was the case and I'm glad I removed the VT unit since I was considering just leaving it on!!! I may have saved myself a lot of pissoffedness(new word).

Are there any tricks to placing the new cam seals? Should I place them when I put the top cover on or after?

I hope to place the head on the block with the help of a friend in a couple days. Since tomorrow is my wife's birthday and she will be the center of my life tomorrow.

 

I got ambitious today since it was a nice day out,for a change. I got the head on .It's all torqued down now and the exhaust manifold is back on. Tomorrow I'll button down the turbo . Before I put the intake back on I have to wait for a new oil trap before the intake goes on.

While torquing the head I did notice one thing. I did the 2 stages of torquing and started the angle torquing. As I got to the end of the head it seemed like the bolt tension was a lot less. I checked one bolt with the torque wrench and it wasn't at 60NM .I went ahead and retorqued the remaining bolts. It's like the angular torquing compressed the gasket enough to affect other bolts. I'll go out today and check the torque with my torque wrench and make sure they're all even.

So far , so good.

 

I used my torque wrench to determine the final torque was about 85ftlbs. I then went around and made sure all head bolts were at 85 ftlbs. Only a couple bolts needed extra torque. I'm sure there;s a good reason to use angle tightening but what a pain.

Did I mention how frikkin difficult;almost IMPOSSIBLE ; it is to get the small metal banjo fitting back on under the intake?? It tok me the better part of 1 hour to finesses this lil SOB in place.I'm sure they could've made it more difficult but at a certain point there's no more humor in it.

I now have the intake , ETM & pipe on . However, I routed the wiring wrong;behind the starter and there's not enough slack in the sensor wires .I'll have to unbolt the starter and re route the wiring...sheesh..what a pain. I placed the new cam belt , tensioner & idler.

 

OK...It's down to the wire now. All that needs to be done is torque the VVT onto the cam and time the cams using a new belt. I had made a cam lock but it wasn't strong enough to torque the VVT to 90 ftlbs. The cam starts to turn bending my homemade cam lock.

I've ordered a commercial cam lock tool from Ebay and will finish this off when it arrives. I think it's better safe than sorry. I had hoped to have it running by today, oh well.

I also had a problem finding a 1/2" drive T55 socket to use with my torque wrench when tightening the VVT. I ended up buying a 3/8" drive socket and pounded out the T55 piece. I can put that into a 1/2" drive 10mm socket and it works fine with good clearance. There's not not room to use a socket wrench on the VVT unit.

 

I now have the cam locinh tool in place but I ran into a snag. I'd turned the cranj about 1/4 CCW before I place the top cover. WEll I guess it was too much because now I can't get the crank to TDC. So off with the top cover to release teh valves. So crank is now at TDC and cam lock is on. If the rain will stop I'll go out and have at it
Another thing I noticed after torquing the VVT unit to 0ftlbs I can turn the VVT unit CW but it doesn't spring back on it;s own. Is this because all the oil has drained out of it?

 

Today I tidied up all (most) of the loose ends and had the battery charging. Even though it was missing the gasket for the VVY actuator I couldn't resist. I turned the key and it cranked; for about 5 seconds then fired and ran. I shut it off after a few seconds and I had oil everywhere but it runs !

Once I get the gasket and actuator installed I can run it up to temp and do a short test drive.this process has been about 3 weeks off and on.There were days I didn't even look at it. There are a few special tools that would be nice to own. The serpentine belt was a bitch to put on. The tension wheel uses a Torx head and there's not enough room to get a socket wrench in. I used a Torx socket and grabbed it with a large set of vise grips.That barely worked !!

The proper tool would be a torx head welded to a long flat bar/handle.

 

I installed the VVT actuator with gasket today and started it up. It ran well but had a coolant leak. I had to tightened the coolant fitting on the turbo. I found another minor leak at the short rubber hose behind the exhaust manifold connecting 2 metal coolant lines. That will be repaired tomorrow.

Also, I think I may have an oil leak and it may be the cam seal on the front exhaust cam. I may have to remove the belt & VVT to check it...ughhh. THe dealer here claims the front cam seal is the same for non VVT & VVT engines. Unless I didn't get it in far enough( no pun intended)..

 

Hey Max, I seen some activity on this thread and decided to check in to see what could possibly be going on with a new member post that would generate so many responses and wow! You've been busy. I'm going to change the title of the post, maybe you'll get more interaction.

On torqueing the head bolts, I was told to oil the bolts real good so they torque right the first time.

As for the VVT, wish I could help there but that's post my time. Maybe you will get some help on that after I change the title.

I'm with you, those reconditioned heads look great. Mine had metal shavings in it when I got it back from the shop, that I was not warned about. Found out when I dropped it and rolled it over. Called the head shop and let them know that a warning on that should have been in order. No one wants metal shavings floating around inside their motor.

Hope you get things worked out soon. If you don't get some VVT guidance here, start a new thread and maybe even start a thread on www.MatthewsVolvoSite.com, those guys are real quick to help if they have the knowledge. I'll set you up a quick link back post to try to get you a little help.

 

Thanks for the new topic, rspi. It;s better than the one I used. Today I replaced a leaky coolant hose at the back of the block and it seems to be ok now. There is a large oil leak at the frontof the motor. When the engine is running I can see oil being slinged from the exhaust cam sprocket. I suspect I didn't install the new seal correctly. I'll pull it tonite and check.Unfortunately the oil has got on the NEW belt. I don't know if I can clean it with soap and water or just replace the NEW belt..oh well, life is a learning process... embrace change and wear clean underwear.

rspi, I did clean the head bolt block holes and oiled up each NEW bolt.
THe VVT adjustment is actually simple but the explanatrion is confusing.
I did notice afer I replaced the exhaust cam seal the VVT unoit had a fair bit of drag on it.