Hey guys, I'm starting a timing belt replacement job.
I can't for the life of me find any marks on the cam gears, to match to the notches on the TB cover I need some help.
Thanks.
Dave.

 

is the timing belt cracking? usually they get done at 10 yr intervals or 120k. The timing marks are on the cam gears and are very small but they are there. also on the oil pump gear depending on the oil pump gear there will be two notches on two gears or only one notch. let me know if you have two notches or one on the gear closest to the oil pump.

 

Thanks Joseph for the response.

Man, the back story is that the dealer recommended the TB when the car was in last week for a bulb (yes I know) issue.
I can't see any visable fatigue but its now got 110k on the speedo.

Anyway, I busted out my electron microscope and found the timing marks on the cam gears and crank this morning.

So now I got an issue: my last TB job was on my 928 and I had a flywheel lock to get the pulley off the crank. no one is mentioning the need for that in my Volvo walkthrough. How do you get the four 10mm and 30mm loose without rotation?

 

They recommended it when you were just there for a bulb because it's due. And if you drive out of there and it snaps, you could come back and complain that they didn't tell you it was needed. We have to cover our *** for everything.

To get the crank pulley off, you'll need an impact.

 

yes you need to use an impact on the bolts. make sure before you take the crank off the timing marks are lined up and scribe would be a good idea to scribe where the marks are on the engine that way if things move you can also use your own marks. let us know how it turns out. good luck, cheers

 

When I did mine on my 740 I had to run out and buy a swivel adapter for that socket because there wasn't enough room to put the impact wrench between the gear and the fan. It's way less aggravating to have everything you need right there in front of you.

 

You guys, I very much appreciate your help. Thanks for looking out for a rookie.

I used my impact wrench, the 30 was still a bear to get off, had to hit it with PB blaster a couple of times. Maybe some fatigue on the belt, not real exciting to look at.

I was ready to rock and then realized I got the wrong tensioner from FCP in their kit
I didn't realize that it was a split year. I had part 30637955 and I got 30638277. The width and diameter is the same, but the bracket is slightly different.
I am assuming they are not interchangeable?
I guess I will try and find one local this weekend.

 

The two tensioner styles are not interchangeable.

 

Thanks E.
Currently doing the sit on your *** until the right parts come, game.

 

Ok guys, almost there.
Belt is on, roller and idler replaced.
Marks look good all around.

I set tensioner by getting the center screw finger tight. Then rotating face with allen wrench clockwise until tab centered in bracket. Then I tighten center screw. Problem is that the final position for allen head is at eight olclock. The guide says it should be at six oclock, but the pics of the old tensioner before I broke it down are at one oclock.
Issue or non-issue?
Engine turns fine, belt tracks fine. About eighty degrees in garage.
Thanks.

 

You should turn the allen until the alignment arm passes the window and then turn it back. The position of the allen doesn't matter. Its the position of the arm that matters.

 

Thanks E, you saved me again. I was hoping that would be the answer I got.

So if you have time, my guide talked about cold/warm/hot settings with different arm settings for the tensioner. The warm setting is putting the arm in the middle of the bracket -- which i did, but I'm not sure what quanitates "cold" the garage temp is warm at 80 degress, but I would say 80 degrees is "cold" for the block? Maybe i'm making it too complicated, lol.
Many Thanks, Dave

 

68 is the middle setting. So go a little past that.