Okay, So I have little to no car knowledge just the basics... I recently spent $3.5k back in May on a 2002 Volvo V70 XC AWD 120k from a private owner. Got it inspected no issues took it to a drive in oil change place and everything seemed fine. On my way home form a trip the check engine and low oil pressure break safely, lights came on. I call my brother who knows more on cars for advice, he tells me if I have other sensor issues which i did, and just got and oil change and filter replaced its should be fine just take it easy. So i continue driving home from Ny.

Half way home my engine blew, and a rod shot out the engine box and damaged my angle gear (transfer case). I buy a used replacement engine and transfer case pay for the work. Car now runs but smokes like hell. I left him go to the next Mechanic, didn't even drive the car yet he tells me its the turbo, it probably caused the first engine to blow because it was sucking oil from the engine. So i buy a turbo and replace that.

After 1 day of driving it no more then 20 miles, After replacing the engine turbo and angle gear, I get a "No Oil Pressure Stop Engine" signal. I parked the car and scheduled an appt wit volvo at this point I dont know what to do or to expect but I'm way to invested in repairs as is and can use any experienced advice I can get. Thanks in advance.

 

My 'low oil pressure' warning was caused by broken PCV pipe. I replaced it and no issue ever since..

 

I'm curious, everyone on this blog is very knowledgeable on possible methods to resolve this "no oil pressure" message issue. My 2013 S60 (approx 50000 miles) has also started to have this message appear intermittently.

It sounds like most of the advice given here is for those whom are mechanically inclined and do the work themselves.

I'm curious about the cost of these aforementioned repairs. Almost all of them sounded expensive, but I really do not have a clue.

I saw one solution was to "replace engine,." Wow, I just bought this car a year ago. Would something like this repair be typically covered under standard factory extended warranty? Any ideas on how much this would cost at a Volvo dealer to repair?

Other than this new message; the car has been great.

Thanks

 

DONT DRIVE - TAKE THE CAR IN ASAP. Just had this happen to my 2012 VW CC at 49,000 miles. First was to have the dealer (car under warranty) replace the oil pressure sensor. Then they took it for an extended test drive and was able to replicate the intermittant light (happened at highway speeds after the car warmed). They now measured the actual pressure with a gauge over the RPMs to see numbers out of range so they dropped the pan. The tech said the scavenger had some metal filings/metal grit which was impeding the needed flow at speed so VW covered a new engine under the warranty. If your car is no longer under warranty and the oil sensor doesn't fix the problem, have the shop drop the oil pan and inspect the pick up and pump before it does some prolonged damage. I'm now considering putting in a magnetic drain plug too... (only have 1K on the new "free" $9000 engine)

 

The original post, was for a xc 70 2.4 turbo charged engine, which had sludge caused by a blocked up crank breath system. Which was clogging up the sump oil pump suction mesh, and stopping oil flow.

You need for find out, quickly, what is causing your issue with oil pressure.

Is it the oil pressure switch, the connection loose etc. or something else.

If you are running along and the low oil pressure indication come up, and if when you stop the engine and restart, the oil pressure is normal again for another period of time/distance travelled, before low oil pressure come back again.

Then yes it could be the sump oil pump mesh getting blocked up, and basically clears itself when you stop. Until sucking up more rubbish to restrict the flow.


A couple of simple checks.

Is there black waxy sludge under the oil filler cap?

Is there a slight resistance when you try and take the oil filled cap off with the engine running. This should let you know if the crank breather system is working.
There should be a slight negative pressure on the crank case side.

remove and have a look at the oil filter, if it look full of crud, like the photos further down this post, then you know what you have.

Has the car been regularly serviced, and the correct oil been used. for what ever engine you have.

 

I experienced the same issue with intermittent "no oil pressure " light on my 2002 V70 2.4t. Changed the oil several times, A few times I ran the kerosene like oil additive just before the oil change -that is meant to clean out old sludge.
Took it to the local mechanic that dropped the oil pan. He spent all day cleaning the bottom, changed the oil screen, oil cooler. Each effort to cure the oil pressure problem lasted less and less time, including the mechanics valiant effort to clean the oil pan pick up and associated parts.

Then I read on this forum somewhere about the PVC system, and an oil catch box that is located under the intake manifold. The crankcase is ventilated through this plastic box, and the condensed oil drains back into the crankcase/oil pan. I ordered a new box, spent about 4 hours replacing the box. You have to remove the intake manifold, but it's not as bad as it seems. The drain holes were totally blocked with sludge, and the box was full to the top with an oil/sludge/ water emulsion mix. Solved the problem entirely.

 

Good point on the PCV. A clogged PCV system will have other symptoms - any smoke venting out of the dipstick tube? - is there oil leaking out of the upper end of the motor or around the filler cap? First quick test is to look for any smoke venting out of the dip stick, next do the "rubber glove" test - remove the oil fill cap and put a latex or similar glove over the fill cap. If the glove inflates it means your have positive crank case pressure, likely caused by the vent back into the intake being clogged. Also note that when people do "seafoam" treatments (ie running transmission fluid or similar additives to remove sludge) can actually allow some of the softened sludge to clog the flame trap. Check our Robert DIY's vids on both the tests and using seafoam treatments...and there's a vid on how to replace the PCV parts posted by FCP Euro.

 

I did the glove test on the dipstick , but it was normal, that is - no pressure in the crankcase. Sounds odd, but the PVC catch box was definitely clogged. That was really good news, because I was thinking the same as others, trashed engine with carbon buildup through the oil circulation system.

 

You are supposed to put something on top of open engine cap hole.

Seems it is rather a common issue with broken PCV pipe /or clogged PCV system. Especially the material used on PCV pipe is rubbish and will get brittle and eventually crack as it ages.

 

For those of you who removed the oil screen or mesh in the past are your cars still running? I've go identical symptoms and I'm tempted to remove my screen to let the small particles get trapped by the filter instead of the screen.

 

I have a 2002 v70xc with 182,000. Just recently the front intake cam seal failed resulting in a massive oil leak and the “LOW OIL PRESSURE PULL OVER SAFLY” message. I already knew the the PCV system was not working properly having done the glove test but procrastinated on fixing it. I was lucky it was the forward intake cam seal the easiest to see and repair. Anyway,,I installed a complete PCV kit box,hoses. I found the the vacuum hose to the manifold disconnected explaining why the system failed. The lower return opening to the engine was blocked solid it took some time to clear it.
I then replaced the failed cam seal and the oil saturated timming belt.

Feeling good that I had done the job right I took the car for a drive,,,after about 20 miles the “LOW OIL PRESSURE” message returned. There was no oil visible on the motor and the dip stick showed full????? Now what!!

Reading in this thread as to the oil screen getting blocked by junk in the pan I decided to pull the pan. I didn’t really expect to find anything because I have been religious about oil changes and the PCV failure was due to a disconnected vacuum line. Well I was wrong,,, in the process of clearing out the blocked PCV system there was sufficient sludge to block the pick up screen. This is after flushing the return opening several times.

Two things learned here.

KEEP AN EYE ON THE PCV SYSTEM AND DON’T PUT OFF REPAIRING IT WHEN NEEDED!!!

WHEN REPAIRING A BLOCKED PCV SYSTEM THE PAN MUST BE DROPED AND CLEANED.

I want to thank all particularly “bydand” long winded but very informative. I don’t think I would have attempted this fix without the info in this thread.

 

If you read the long winded thread carefully. The blocked PCV causes a build up of crap, (carbon flakes) on the insides of the engine crankcase.

This is what get washed off over time.

Did you look up, into the engine entablature, it was most likely coated in crud.

Thats why you have to remove the oil pump suction strainer, or you are going to be dropping the sump a lot.


The carbon flake will continue to get washed off by engine oil splash, over time.

Check your oil filter regularly, and change as required.

Still have the XC 70, 126K Km and still going.

Good to see this thread still doing the rounds, and helping some.....

 

I have a 2001 Volvo s60 2.4t.. My oil light came on, and a no oil pressure light came on as well. I put the car on ramps and I have oil leaking from my turbo on the side where my air intake hooks. I'm curious about what can be causing this and I'm wondering if that leak could be the reason I have no oil pressure. If if you know a way I can fix it please let me know. I have a daughter on the way and I'm trying to hurry and get my car back on the road. Thanks: Kerry...
Someone please give me an idea on this issue

 

First thing to do is to stop driving it. Block PCV system can put oil in the intake system.
Second is to verify the oil pressure using a mechanical oil gauge.
If the oil pressure is fine, then the oil pressure gauge sensor is probably bad. If the oil pressure is not fine, you have an internal engine problem.

If you don't have the ability to do the work yourself, paid an mechanic who can.

 

It's so much easier to change the oil and filter every three thousand miles than go through this crap. Of course, we have no control of the neglect of previous owners.

 

Read the title and the comments in the original post.

In a nut shell.
If the crankcase breather blocks up, as it prone too, because of the too small a bore of the breather at the banjo fitting.

The resultant sludge build up, inside the engine will block the oil pump suction mesh, and cause the low oil pressure reading until you stop the engine and the high negative pressure, blows it back into the sump.

To happen again and again until such times as you remove suction mesh.

Changing the oil as many folks have found out, will not cure the problem, due to the sludge adhering to the engine internals, and washing away over time to block the pump suction mesh.

 

Not sure if it was said or not, oil change 4k miles or every 6 months.
People dont realize the contamination in oil and if it sits it is worse.
Also moisture accumulates and if car does not heat up regularly the condensation gets into everything.
Big sludge ***** are a sign or dirt, **** oil or old oil, or all of those things.
Rarely used cars have a harder life than regularly used cars.

my 04 c70 was very low miles cars from prev owner, but as soon as I started to drive it I had trans issues from the sediment that ended up in the valve body from sitting so much. same can happen in engine

 

If the PCV is clogged,
The sump oil will build up crude which will coat and contaminate the engine internals.
The result will be the oil pump sump screen blocks up, and the low oil pressure alarm come up. Intermittently every stop and start.

Clean the PVC, and remove the sump oil pump screen, and save yourself some time and money in the long run.

Build up will happen very quickly, and be very difficult to remove completely.

read the post from the start.

 

If your car has a turbocharger, DO NOT USE MINERAL OILS. Turbo's burn a minute amount of oil all the time from their bearings which are pressure fed from the engine. Mineral oil leaves a carbon deposit on the inside by the bearing which gradually builds up and eventually forces the turbine to physically impact with the case. Kabloowie! Synthetic oils do not leave this carbon deposit. How do I know? I had a 740 Turbo Wagon some years ago, and other than maintenance items, a minor gearbox problem, and the rear engine/gearbox mount, the only other real problem I had was turbo failure. The previous owner had been 'saving' money by using mineral oil.

 

I am not intending to be a wise guy here but having been working with engines and mechanical things most of my life "mineral oil is a new term to me. I do not use synthetic but I do use a good quality off the shelf motor oil of the recommended viscosity.

The term "mineral oil" brings to mind a light machine type oil like WD40 or 3&1.
This may be a local thing like bonnet/hood, could you elaberate on the term "mineral oil"

Thanks