I just purchased my first 240 the other day and have been working on getting things up and working to pass inspection. I have a handful of small problems that I hope someone can help me solve.

1. license plate lights- one of the lights is burnt out and needs replacing but I have struggled to confidently remove the casing to access the bulb and am wondering if there is an easy way to do that.

2. side mirror- The manual adjusting mirror on the driver's side does not work and I have detached the whole mirror casing from the car and the mirror from the housing but cannot see why it isn't responding to moving the adjuster.

3. fuse 8/AC?- my fuse #8 will not work, as soon as the battery is grounded it immediately pops time and time again and I wonder if it could be linked to my AC blowing but not that well? (might just need a recharge I haven't checked)

4. Tail light lens- both of the lenses for my brake lights are cracked and I found replacement lenses but I have struggled to find out how to remove them in order to install new ones to pass inspection.

Any help, tips, pointers, or whatever you have for me would be greatly appreciated, thank you

 

1. the license plate lights break easily during removal when old -
2 set it where you want it, or replace the mirror
3 What else is on the fuse? Is there still a belt on the compressor spinning the ac and power steering? (and 2 alternator belts) You are lucky. Was it converted to R134 at some point in time? Pre 1991 converted cars don't blow very cold, and r 12 practically does not exist any more. Don't count on ac for a reasonable price.
4. ? Tail lamps unbolt from inside the trunk, and the brake light sockets are known for melting. You can move the brake lights (lower outer red lens) to the fog lamp position (upper inner red lens for free!)

 

3- I'll have to look but thank you for the tips on r134
4- that's a good idea, how would I go about doing that with the plastic circuit board on the lights? I am also considering changing out the plastic board for 2 spade connectors on each bulb housing as it will hopefully be more reliable

 

in the 6? wire connector that plugs onto the circuit board/taillamp, just move the brake light wire where the white? one for the rear fog lamp was and snip the white wire coming out of the harness - (when did you use your rear fog lamps last?)

have tried a few rigs to add wires to the bulb holders, the metal "springs" in the bulb holders that touch the bulb don't drill or solder easily. you can buy circuit boards but the housing is usually melted out of place so they don't work (for long)

 

Good idea- I have found a tutorial on using female quick slides (I believe 3/8 inch) to fit over the "springs" and connect the individual wires to one side and a ground cable to each one

also any advice on how to know if I have r12 or r134? I am new to this and don't exactly know where to start

 

Someone was supposed to put a sticker under the hood after a conversion - r12 service fitting are similar to a tire valve with a flared end. They are the same as fittings on your home ac unit. r 134 fittings are larger and have no external threads. Does the compressor still spin when you turn the car on? There is a delay relay that waits a few seconds after the car is started to send power to the compressor clutch. If the fuse for the compressor blows, just use a jumper wire to the clutch wire and touch it to the battery - don't let it melt in your hand!

 

I don't see any sticker and honestly don't know where to look for the fittings although I know what you're referring to- I believe the compressor spins because the AC does make noise and blows a little which leads me to hope it only needs a recharge

I'm sorry I don't know where this stuff is

 

There are fittings on the back of the compressor at the top, should be covered with a cap. They are going to be r-12 fittings that may or may not be used. The low side might have a r 134 conversion fitting on it. Or there might be a t fitting in the low side hose with a 134 fitting (the big ac hose going over the top of the engine) or can be on the high side with a t fitting (not DIY friendly) next to the receiver drier, the black 3" by 12" round canister with two ac hoses on it near the right headlamp..

 

Awesome, thank you. I'm wondering what you know about fuses, in the fuse box, I have a mixture of fuses that have a consistent metal band and some that taper in very thin in the middle and then widens back out to the contact point (let me know if that didn't make sense) I have only had the fuses with the thinner center blow consistently and I'm curious if I should purchase the thin or wide ones or both. I don't know if the fuses keep blowing because they are susceptible to blowing for some other reason or if its because the thinner ones are less robust?

 

8 amp fuse is white
16 amp fuse is red
25 amp fuse is blue

The rating is printed on the back of them, and there should be a legend on the fuse box cover showing what fuses go where. The only place a 25 should be is for the heater fan. If you use them other places the wiring might melt.