Hello fellow Volvo enthusiasts,

I have a 2007 XC70 that does not start in cold weather. If the temperature drops below -10 degrees Celsius I get the starter cranking but no start. This has been going on all last winter, and now, with the winter arriving…it is starting to act again.

I have taken it in to the dealership and to a regular mechanic but was unable to get anything from them. The dealership could not replicate the issue. The mechanic told me that it is not worth investing more money to fix the car (but…as he told me…”I can give you $500 for it”). That feels to me like the car is still fixable. I like a puzzle and a challenge as a DIY. I worked as a machinist for 12 years so I am not shy around mechanical issues but I do not claim to be a mechanic. This feels more like an electrical issue to me. I want to keep this car if I can sort out the issue(s).

I have measured the battery voltage and it was 12.1 volts when the engine is off. Yesterday it was -5 degrees Celsius and the car did not start on the first couple attempts. The engine started with a boost from my . I got my hopes up thinking it was simply a battery that was drained enough to cause these no start issues when cold.

However, to test my theory, I tried again today. It was -10 degrees Celsius and the car did not start even with the G30 jump starter. Then, I connected the Volvo battery to the battery of my wife’s running van. I measured the voltage across the Volvo battery terminals before I tried again and it was 13.8 volts while connected to the running van battery. But no matter how many times I cranked it…it did not start. So I guess it is not the battery.

My gives lots of codes when the car does not start.

After I clear the codes and it is warm outside, the codes do not return and the engine runs like a champ…so I think all these codes are simply related to the intermittent electrical problem that I suspect.

I do have a message on the dashboard about the “SRS airbag needs urgent service” (which seems to happen to people who had issues with their DIM module that needed to be sent out and reflowed). But I did not read anything about the DIM causing a no start in cold weather condition. I do not have other issues with the DIM so far. I do not want to replace parts just to see if the issue goes away…so here I am.

Did anyone have a similar issue? Did you find a fix for it?

Thanks

 

when a car has a voltage issue, its not uncommon to get all sorts of fault codes - comm errors etc. Best to do what you did and just record and clear to see what resets. Based on the codes you've shown, the crank position sensor is the one to keep an eye on. Its possible you have a cable issue - try cleaning and tightening the battery terminals. If your battery is over 4 years old, you may be on the borderline of needing a replacement - consider having it tested as well. Note that batteries are supposed to measure 12.6V when fully charged. if you measured 12.1 you may need to adjust your VOM or you could have a weak battery. Could also be an alternator issue not fully charging the battery so you may want to monitor during a driving cycle (your OBD reader can probably do this).

 

Had a similar issue in 1984 w/ a 1 YO Buick LeSabre. Someplace around freezing the car would not start (never tried jumping it) . Dealer could not duplicate but then again, when he tried I had driven the car in on a warmer day. After some weeks of this I dropped the car off on a night when it was expected to be several degrees below freezing. Bingo - they could not get it to start. They did eventually blame a wire that (so they claimed) was broken internally and when cold would contract in the insulation to a distance that would cease it's ability to pass current or arc over the gap. They showed me a wire with a nasty kink in it, claimed to have replace it and I never had a repeat of the issue. So maybe they were honest (dealership - it COULD happen. Maybe.) .
I start looking for spark, then fuel. You say the starter cranks so that is eliminated and if it cranks it should have enough juice to start so I'd eliminate the battery - but I would replace a 4 YO battery any way - if it hasn't died it's just looking for the right place to - get it before it gets you.