Ok well first off that subject is kind of a tease... for now. right now ive started planning my next project and it is going to be the ultimate sleeper. i am currently building a 400ci small block chevy which i plan on putting in a 200 series volvo. my question is there a perticular model year/style/trim level i should shoot for for this swap? i want light and a stiff body but very plain looking. im planning on building the motor to around 500 ft-lbs tq. i need something i can easily hide a roll cage in because im sure any 200 series will be twisted under that tq. also what would you guys suggest as far as where to find stiffer suspension components and the widest stock looking tires i can fit.

 

Welcome

Please take a look at this link here for aftermarket suspension parts, https://volvoforums.com/m_38606/tm.htm
In there you will see a link titled, http://www.kaplhenke.com/ click it and you will find good suspension parts.

Why would you want stock looking wheel and tires? I know your going for sleeper but your not going to be able to go very wide. Why not try some 17x7", 17x7.5" or 18x8" OEM rims. With these especially the 18x8" rims you can def. go wider.

 

the rear definitly will be much larger but as far as clearance goes what are the largest tire/rim size i can get? is there any difference in the 260, 240, 242, 244, 240 desiel besides doors and length? i looked and wheelbase seems to be the same but are the 260s stiffer bodies than the 240s?

 

I wouldn't go over 18" rims. 18x8" rims should fit just right.

 

I would vote for a wagon as the 240. You can easilyhide the cage with tinted windows and it would be the easiest 240 to cut up the wheel wells to fit bigger wheels/tires.
What are your plans for the car?
It might be a better idea to find a used LS1 w/ T56 & ECU ~ $1500 and match it to a 12 bolt or ford 9 in the back. The 240 is so light that the LS1 wouldn't screw up the chassis characteristics and allow it to still handle well. You would also get better mpg and stop quicker.
If you are looking for a drag car, then the 400 with a TH350 would be a good combo. It will weigh so much that the car's handling characteristics will be horrible.
Either way, you definatly want to look into a better braking system.

Nick

 

I found this at:http://www.turbobricks.com/feature.p...tent=spring_05#.
Seems like itmightget the same results. Eric J

The Volvo B5234T4 motor spun by a Mitsubishi TD04-19T turbo, BLITZ Sbc Spec S unit electronic boost controller, Forge DV006 recirculation valve complete with a CBV Block-off plate is bolted to a 3� Ferrita Group A stainless steel racing exhaust with 3" catalytic converter. In addition, an air duct from the grill to the turbo was added to cool the housing and keep underhood temps down. BSR Optiflow intake is fed through all aluminum piping connected to a 40mm Kylarjonsson hi-flow intercooler to help keep the intake charge temps at a minimum. 350cc injectors powered by a Rica ECU along with Unorthodox Racing underdrive pulleys and Magnecore 8.5mm Racing spark plug wires provide the support for the power output. A Mocal 19row 330mm oil cooler was added to keep the oil supply nice and cool. [*]Transmission:
The stock Volvo M59 5-Speed and Volvo OEM 850R Clutch puts the power to the wheels along with the stock LSD.[*]Suspension:
KW Variant III coilovers provide the ride characteristics, the PU Upper torque rod and lower control arm bushings make sure its staying put and the iPD swaybars with OMP Strut brace help the fully welded chromoly roll cage keep the car from twisting.[*]Wheels & Brakes:
Heico Sportiv AP Racing 325mm brakes stuffed inside OZ Superleggera Wheels complete with brake cooling vents piped in from the fog lamps.

 

please put some movies up!!! I've always wanted to see a 200 series v8 in action...

 

There's a conversion kit available by JTR to bolt in a 302 that includes motor mounts and hoses. I also know that there's a kit for the 351 but I forget who makes it. Any 200 series will do, same under carriage....but if you're going for 500 ft-lbs I'd think about welding the frame. That's a lot of torque and I know there was a guy on Brickboard that twisted the hell out of his frame at just under 450 ft-lbs.

The wagon would be easier to tub out, but you won't need to. I'd hit up a set of wider 17's on the rear with a slightly more negative offset than what you've got because the rear wheels on a 200 can push out a tad and still stay inside the panels.

This'll be a fun project...post pictures!