The lady that gave me my Volvo told me that she change oil only at the dealer recommended interwals and that was 10,000 miles between oil changes.

When I took the car the engine temp was on the higher side but not overheating. It was only matter of time I guess. When I changed the oil myself I saw only 3.5 quarts come out and the cat takes 6.1. Makes me think the dealer was sabotaging her while ripping her off for a lot of things. She was all too happy to GIVE AWAY the keys to 2001 V70 T5 to me. After I put in Shell Synthetic and changed the filter (it was all torn up inside) the temp went back to normal and stayed there

My question is, should I take it to those oil changing places where they have the machines for flusing the engine?

I'm afraid there might be sludge and gunk throughout the engine and in oil pan.

Any recommendations?

 

Interval for turbo is 5K.

 

I know, and excuse my poor spelling up top, I'm working 12 hour shifts so I'm doing most of this on my blackberry, for some reason I can't edit my posts from this mobile device.

The dealer told her 10,000 miles and that's what she did. What I'm saying is, I love the car and don't want it to go bad due to sludge and gunk

So flush or not? That is the question

 

Not sure about flush. But i think that synthetic oil has already additives in it that are suppose to take care of gunk and sludge. I do all my oil changes by myself with castrol syntec and OEM filter.
And about misspelling ......LOL......... English is my second language and didn't notice any......LOL

 

I would not do any type of power flush. All that will accomplish is to let gunk and sludge bits circulate. Instead, you should change that oil and filter you've put in at a very short interval, and do the same again. And maybe a third time at an equally short interval.
High quality detergent oil (synthetic) and make sure you drain it when it is hot. Let it drain for a long interval, too, to get as much of the sludge out of it as you can.

Years ago (I'm talking 1960's) some mechanics swore by the following technique: drain the oil and change the filter. Replace the oil with automatic transmission fluid. Start the car and let it run for 10 minutes or so. Drain the fluid, change the filter, and replace with engine oil. That pink ATF came out nearly black. There are engine flush additives you can buy at auto supply stores to put in minutes before you drain the oil, too. They appear to be solvents of some sort. Can't guarantee that either ATF or these solvents will cure whatever problem you may have.

I'd also check the trans fluid, coolant, and brake fluids, too. I've never heard of a dealer that recommended long fluid replacement intervals -- so I'd be suspicious that other fluids need changing, too.

 

10K? That's unheard of!
If it were my personal car, I would run some sort of flush through it before every oil change. Change the filter cartridge, add some engine cleaner, run at 2k for about 20-30 mins. Drain and change oil. I've seen a lot of oiling problems with those motors so you may want to install an oil pressure gauge to make sure it isn't getting too low. I can't recall off the top of my head but the light only comes on at say 9 or 14 psi (I'm leaning towards 9), you could be driving down the highway with low oil pressure and not know it.
Given the vehicles maintenance history I would be wary of the oil pressure. If you get a lot of sludge/gunk out you could also take a borescope and inspect the oil pump pickup strainer for buildup.

 

I'm going to Pep-Boys or AutoZone to get some flush additives and I also heard that all oil filters aren't created equal. That Mobil 1 is way better than plain ol STP or Mahle (OEM) and that the synthetic oil is the best.

Now I'm using Shell fully synthetic? Is that one good enough (I get it at a good price) or do I pony up for Mobil 1 Synthetic?

 

Another thing, I know its factory recommended to go with 5w-30 oil but a couple of mechanics said that I should go with 10w-30 due to its high mileage and wear and tear

 

5w-30 is for cold like NY ( under 86°F )
and 10w-30 is for hot weather ( over 86°F ) like AZ

 

Volvo doesn't recommend using any oil additives!!!!!
Here are pics from owners manuals for 850 ans S60

 

BB, no additives, just some cleaner to flush the sludge and gunk out of the engine

Other than that I'm gonna go with Shell synthetic or Mobil synthetic now with every oil change. No additives to oil, only when I want to change the oil once in a while ill use a flushing agent to get the slush and gunk out

 

Don't get your panties in a bunch there are lots of things Volvo doesn't recommend, that doesn't mean they are off limits. I work at a Volvo dealer and we use BG additives. We also flush transmission fluid, despite what Volvo says, because it works.

 

Don't get offended mister. I didn't mean to say you were wrong. I didn't say don't do it it doesn't work. I just posted pictures from owners manuals because he doesn't have one. In there in bold letters they mention (couple times) not recommended to use additives. So now he knows what they recommend.
Again sorry if I offended you

 

Ok guys, I've had a lot of good advice from both of you and I'm applying it to my Volvo. BB, I know what you meant, thanx for those pics as I really don't have them.
Volvo4mula, thanx a lot bro, good to know you work at Volvo, so if I do need to know some things ill be able to ask you for help.

All you guys are very good and I appreciate all the help and advice