My new IPD Torque mount
I installed it yesterday on my '01 V70. It's used on many different models so I decided to post my results in the general chat.
First off, the new updated version comes with two sets of bushings:

I left the default blue ones in for now. The black ones are VERY stiff, almost feeling like solid black plastic, but they aren't.
It took all of ten minutes to replace. Everything is an exact fit just as a OEM one. It's very stiff compared to the OEM one I just installed a few months back.
I drove to work today, about 50 miles. There is a huge improvement in shifting. It's very noticable, at least in my car. The whole drivetrain just feels really tight now. There is no hard shifting or any of those random things that happen sometimes. When the trans shifts in either direction, it feels like it does it quicker and more responsive. You also feel the increase in response from a stop. It picks right up, almost whips you back in your seat since it's so tight.
Yes, there is added vibration. I already had added vibration with the the IPD poly bushings I added to my upper engine mount, but that was contained to the steering wheel only. With this torque mount, you can feel the added vibration on the floorboards. At first it was a little awkward because it almost gives you a tingling sensation in your feet, but after a while it seems to dim down a bit as everything warms up. I couldn't imagine how bad it would be with the black, stronger bushings. I would assume it would be pretty intense, but with the response the default ones proved, I can't imagine the black ones doing THAT much better to justify changing them, but I may do it anyway.
The bushings are not one piece. They are halves, so they look fairly easy to change. You just need to push out the center hollow pin that holds the bushings in place to change them. You can probably change them with the mount bolted to the car. It's very easy to loosen the bolts holding the bushings on to change them. People have complained about how hard or near impossible it is to change them so I think you would need some proper tools to do it.
Anyway, was it worth the $100? Definitely in my opinion. The added response is incredible to me, but it's all dependent on what condition your other mounts are in. Mine are fine with no leaks or cracks (yet) so I would assume this would also prolong the life of your other mounts since there is decreased movement in the engine.
First off, the new updated version comes with two sets of bushings:

I left the default blue ones in for now. The black ones are VERY stiff, almost feeling like solid black plastic, but they aren't.
It took all of ten minutes to replace. Everything is an exact fit just as a OEM one. It's very stiff compared to the OEM one I just installed a few months back.
I drove to work today, about 50 miles. There is a huge improvement in shifting. It's very noticable, at least in my car. The whole drivetrain just feels really tight now. There is no hard shifting or any of those random things that happen sometimes. When the trans shifts in either direction, it feels like it does it quicker and more responsive. You also feel the increase in response from a stop. It picks right up, almost whips you back in your seat since it's so tight.
Yes, there is added vibration. I already had added vibration with the the IPD poly bushings I added to my upper engine mount, but that was contained to the steering wheel only. With this torque mount, you can feel the added vibration on the floorboards. At first it was a little awkward because it almost gives you a tingling sensation in your feet, but after a while it seems to dim down a bit as everything warms up. I couldn't imagine how bad it would be with the black, stronger bushings. I would assume it would be pretty intense, but with the response the default ones proved, I can't imagine the black ones doing THAT much better to justify changing them, but I may do it anyway.
The bushings are not one piece. They are halves, so they look fairly easy to change. You just need to push out the center hollow pin that holds the bushings in place to change them. You can probably change them with the mount bolted to the car. It's very easy to loosen the bolts holding the bushings on to change them. People have complained about how hard or near impossible it is to change them so I think you would need some proper tools to do it.
Anyway, was it worth the $100? Definitely in my opinion. The added response is incredible to me, but it's all dependent on what condition your other mounts are in. Mine are fine with no leaks or cracks (yet) so I would assume this would also prolong the life of your other mounts since there is decreased movement in the engine.
Nice review. I replaced mine as well about 5 weeks ago with a QBM mount I got from IPD. The small bushing on the original mount was completely shot. I was amazed at how such a simple item could fix all the problems I was experiencing (slow gear engagement, poor acceleration, obvious clunking over dips). I thought the car was just showing its age. I would say a new lower torque mount is a must for any owner of a S60/V70 with its fair share of miles on it.
I went with the QBM option (IPD resells the item that QBM makes) because it was $11 cheaper. Yes, I am that cheap. I ended up having to wait 3 weeks for QBM to make some more before IPD had any to ship.
IPD says they use ScanTech mounts with their own bushings. They state that its comparable to the QBM part. I wouldn't be surprised if QBM did something very similar. The QBM part has a single piece bushing that is black urethane and it's not interchangeable. To tell you the truth, I didn't really look hard at the IPD version since it cost more. I didn't know that it had two different bushings to choose from. I saw there were two options for poly torque mounts and one was a few bucks cheaper and I didn't see any faults with either one, so I got the cheaper one. LOL.
BTW, when do you experience vibrations most notably? I read reviews from others that they notice harsh vibes on idle and when the weather is cold. Since installing mine I feel a rough vibe @ 38-41 mph that I didn't have before it. If I hold it within that range I really feel it through the floorboards like you mentioned above. Much more pronounced than any other time.
IPD says they use ScanTech mounts with their own bushings. They state that its comparable to the QBM part. I wouldn't be surprised if QBM did something very similar. The QBM part has a single piece bushing that is black urethane and it's not interchangeable. To tell you the truth, I didn't really look hard at the IPD version since it cost more. I didn't know that it had two different bushings to choose from. I saw there were two options for poly torque mounts and one was a few bucks cheaper and I didn't see any faults with either one, so I got the cheaper one. LOL.
BTW, when do you experience vibrations most notably? I read reviews from others that they notice harsh vibes on idle and when the weather is cold. Since installing mine I feel a rough vibe @ 38-41 mph that I didn't have before it. If I hold it within that range I really feel it through the floorboards like you mentioned above. Much more pronounced than any other time.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with saving a few bucks these days. I'm grateful I can still afford a toy here and there.
I have the same vibration issue, but it's more-so around the 40 to 52 mph mark or so, but i'm sure it's the same kind of thing.
I still can't believe how much nicer the car shifts. When you are on the highway and you punch it, the shifting is instant now. Amazing what such a small upgrade can do.
I'm REALLY tempted to put the stronger black bushings on but I was thinking, that may may things TOO tight. I don't want there to be too much torque on the axles because if it's that tight, you could snap a cv joint or something worse. I think there needs to be a tiny bit of give for there to be some relief.
I don't know enough about it though to know one way or the other.
I have the same vibration issue, but it's more-so around the 40 to 52 mph mark or so, but i'm sure it's the same kind of thing.
I still can't believe how much nicer the car shifts. When you are on the highway and you punch it, the shifting is instant now. Amazing what such a small upgrade can do.
I'm REALLY tempted to put the stronger black bushings on but I was thinking, that may may things TOO tight. I don't want there to be too much torque on the axles because if it's that tight, you could snap a cv joint or something worse. I think there needs to be a tiny bit of give for there to be some relief.
I don't know enough about it though to know one way or the other.
I have clunks, jults, etc in both of my cars, 850 and S70. The 850 has bad mounts on the top, I can see the cracks in them. I assume the lower torque rod is worn out as well, seems to be the abused link in the chain of mounts as far as I can tell from all the reading I've done.
So, I was thinking about getting all the heavy duty mounts from iPd for the 850 since it's the R, and the stock / oem mounts for the S70 since it's my daughter's car and she should not be jerking it around since I'm paying the insurance. Anyway, when I went to FCP's site and seen the price of the Troque Mount I was a little set back of the cheep price
. Then I went to iPd's site and seen that they have mount bushings and started thinking that may be the way to go to save $60, so I'm not sure what to do.
I already ordered 1 Lower Torque Mount (or Heavy Duty Transmission Mount as iPd calls it) from iPd and it's been shipped so it will go in the 850. But I need to get my daughter's S70 tighened up a little so I need to do something about her lower torque / transmission mount and would like some input as to what I might want to try. Her upper mounts are fine, no visible cracks but she gets a little bit of the hard shifting.
So here is where the confusion comes in... can I just replace the bushings in the oem torque mount bracket? iPd sells a bushing kit for this, right? Does the kit come with both bushings, the larger one and the smaller one? Is it that difficult to replace the bushings? Is the bracket that iPd sells much better than the oem bracket? What about the one from FCP??? Is it as good as the oem one that is more than double the cost? Will it work good WITHOUT the vibration for a few years? My daughter's S70 has some vibration now that i can feel in the steering wheel. I thought it was from bad mounts but it may be from newer stiff mounts.
Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
So, I was thinking about getting all the heavy duty mounts from iPd for the 850 since it's the R, and the stock / oem mounts for the S70 since it's my daughter's car and she should not be jerking it around since I'm paying the insurance. Anyway, when I went to FCP's site and seen the price of the Troque Mount I was a little set back of the cheep price
. Then I went to iPd's site and seen that they have mount bushings and started thinking that may be the way to go to save $60, so I'm not sure what to do.I already ordered 1 Lower Torque Mount (or Heavy Duty Transmission Mount as iPd calls it) from iPd and it's been shipped so it will go in the 850. But I need to get my daughter's S70 tighened up a little so I need to do something about her lower torque / transmission mount and would like some input as to what I might want to try. Her upper mounts are fine, no visible cracks but she gets a little bit of the hard shifting.
So here is where the confusion comes in... can I just replace the bushings in the oem torque mount bracket? iPd sells a bushing kit for this, right? Does the kit come with both bushings, the larger one and the smaller one? Is it that difficult to replace the bushings? Is the bracket that iPd sells much better than the oem bracket? What about the one from FCP??? Is it as good as the oem one that is more than double the cost? Will it work good WITHOUT the vibration for a few years? My daughter's S70 has some vibration now that i can feel in the steering wheel. I thought it was from bad mounts but it may be from newer stiff mounts.

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
The small bushing is the weak link with the OEM part. As far as I know, bushing kits don't come with the small bushing. If that is the failure point you must replace the entire mount. To check it, unbolt the front 2 bolts and check for play in the small bushing.
The bracket itself is not a failure point, so don't base your decision on the maker of it. The big difference with the mounts (and what people pay for) is the material from which the bushings are made. The OEM part is rubber which is softer and gives a smoother shift, but also wears quickly. Performance bushings are urethane which is harder and provides a firm shift, but will last a great deal longer. If you are performance minded, the HD mount is a no-brainer.
Double check the upper and lower mounts on the daughter's car. The top mounting bolt may not be tight, or the lower mount could be shot. If neither is the case, it is time to look elsewhere.
The bracket itself is not a failure point, so don't base your decision on the maker of it. The big difference with the mounts (and what people pay for) is the material from which the bushings are made. The OEM part is rubber which is softer and gives a smoother shift, but also wears quickly. Performance bushings are urethane which is harder and provides a firm shift, but will last a great deal longer. If you are performance minded, the HD mount is a no-brainer.
Double check the upper and lower mounts on the daughter's car. The top mounting bolt may not be tight, or the lower mount could be shot. If neither is the case, it is time to look elsewhere.
Ok, the new mounts came in and I did the dad thing and put the mount on my daughter's S70. It is great. No more hard shifting feel, shifts feel very smooth almost as if they didn't even happen and very little noticeable vibrations (remember, we already had some vibrations).
So, I took the other bushing inserts, yes the harder black ones and put them on my 850. DON'T TO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The entire process was an ordeal. I remove the old mount and tried to get the bolt out that held the bushing in it, not possible without a vice of some sort which I do not have. So I put the thing back on the car and broke it loose that way. After getting the bolt out I was faced with the task of pressing the bushing out without a press. So I found a red brick with holes in it and began the process of banging on the end of the mount bushing with different items, even after the brick broke a few times. After getting it started, I put my c-clamp on it and the brick and pressed the center bolt sleeve through. Then the rubber part was still in the bracket so I began hacking away at that with several things. Ended up using needle nose pliers to tear away at the rubber bushing then used a hack saw to cut the otter plastic sleeve so I could slide my needle nose pliers behind it to get it free from the bracket. So, with the old bushing out, it will be a breeze getting the new ones in. Not so, I had damaged the metal sleeve that goes through the bushing so it did not want to go into the new halves. Also, the metal sleeve is a little bigger than the 1/2 bushings so it is a very tight fit. After grinding the end down a little so it would be smooth again I forced it through the 1/2's with a hammer on the edge of the brick. Got it together and installed it on the car. (I really don't think it would be easy swapping the bushings out after they have been on the car for a few weeks. I bet the rods, bushings, and all becomes one after the car jerks it around for a few weeks).
Now for the test, how's it feel. ROUGH! From the moment I started the car there was a vibration. To be honest with you, it really is only a vibration at idle, other than that, it's a BUZZ. Everything buzzes, including the fillings in my teeth. I did not know how many things were loose on my car until I installed that bushing. The buzzing is controlled by the accelerator pedal, you can have more or less buzz depending on where you hold the gas pedal. The car feels a lot more connected to the engine and transmission. Shifts feel fast, no lagging, and if you are pushing it a little, the car almost lunges forward when it shifts into the next gear (SWEET!!!). I started the car, ran in the house to tell my wife something, came back to the car and my head light was making a vibration noise. If there is something loose in the car, you will now be able to hear it, track it down and fix it. Now, I have to remind you that I have other worn bushings in the car, mainly the upper torque mount and the one at the firewall. I have ordered the firewall mount from iPd and it will be in this week. I already have the other upper torque mount in but I will not replace it without the other one in hand.
I am going to KEEP the black mount in for 90 days, unless parts start falling off the car. Hopefully when I get my new tires on, other mounts just mentioned, the situation will not be as ROUGH as it is now. I have book marked this thread and will post back with another progress report.
So, I took the other bushing inserts, yes the harder black ones and put them on my 850. DON'T TO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The entire process was an ordeal. I remove the old mount and tried to get the bolt out that held the bushing in it, not possible without a vice of some sort which I do not have. So I put the thing back on the car and broke it loose that way. After getting the bolt out I was faced with the task of pressing the bushing out without a press. So I found a red brick with holes in it and began the process of banging on the end of the mount bushing with different items, even after the brick broke a few times. After getting it started, I put my c-clamp on it and the brick and pressed the center bolt sleeve through. Then the rubber part was still in the bracket so I began hacking away at that with several things. Ended up using needle nose pliers to tear away at the rubber bushing then used a hack saw to cut the otter plastic sleeve so I could slide my needle nose pliers behind it to get it free from the bracket. So, with the old bushing out, it will be a breeze getting the new ones in. Not so, I had damaged the metal sleeve that goes through the bushing so it did not want to go into the new halves. Also, the metal sleeve is a little bigger than the 1/2 bushings so it is a very tight fit. After grinding the end down a little so it would be smooth again I forced it through the 1/2's with a hammer on the edge of the brick. Got it together and installed it on the car. (I really don't think it would be easy swapping the bushings out after they have been on the car for a few weeks. I bet the rods, bushings, and all becomes one after the car jerks it around for a few weeks).
Now for the test, how's it feel. ROUGH! From the moment I started the car there was a vibration. To be honest with you, it really is only a vibration at idle, other than that, it's a BUZZ. Everything buzzes, including the fillings in my teeth. I did not know how many things were loose on my car until I installed that bushing. The buzzing is controlled by the accelerator pedal, you can have more or less buzz depending on where you hold the gas pedal. The car feels a lot more connected to the engine and transmission. Shifts feel fast, no lagging, and if you are pushing it a little, the car almost lunges forward when it shifts into the next gear (SWEET!!!). I started the car, ran in the house to tell my wife something, came back to the car and my head light was making a vibration noise. If there is something loose in the car, you will now be able to hear it, track it down and fix it. Now, I have to remind you that I have other worn bushings in the car, mainly the upper torque mount and the one at the firewall. I have ordered the firewall mount from iPd and it will be in this week. I already have the other upper torque mount in but I will not replace it without the other one in hand.
I am going to KEEP the black mount in for 90 days, unless parts start falling off the car. Hopefully when I get my new tires on, other mounts just mentioned, the situation will not be as ROUGH as it is now. I have book marked this thread and will post back with another progress report.
I know I told you guys that I was waiting on the upper firewall mount to replace the upper torque mount but I could not wait. I changed my oil yesterday so I decided to check the oil before I left the house and after I checked the oil I decided to look at the cracked upper torque mount. While looking at the crack I decided to grab the arm that goes to the mount and give it a tug. When I did the arm would have came off in my hand if it were not for the bolt that went through the bushing frame.
The upper torque mount was totally torn through. I have never seen anything like it. Since I had the part handy I decided to go ahead and install the new mount (upper engine stabilizing mount) I got from iPd. I'm blown away. Replacement took about 15 minutes.
The upper torque mount was totally torn through. I have never seen anything like it. Since I had the part handy I decided to go ahead and install the new mount (upper engine stabilizing mount) I got from iPd. I'm blown away. Replacement took about 15 minutes.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dpagini
Wheels, Tires and other Exterior
5
Jul 2, 2014 07:31 PM
BrickMDXLIX
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
3
Jul 9, 2012 12:24 PM




