Newbie with questions
#1
11-27-2016, 06:28 PM
Newbie with questions
Just bought my first Volvo, at the tender ate of 68. It's a 2004 XC90. Flew to Boston yesterday and drove it back to Virginia where we live. With some limp justification, I did do an online search review/s and this year and model had great comments. Then I joined this forum...
Sure enough, I noticed a slight "clunk" in reverse and some stiffness in the power steering. I have bought a half dozen this way and other than an individual who lied about smoking, were good deals. I got what I consider a good deal ($10K, 42K miles) and certainly expected to put at least a grand, maybe two into it. Did not expect the transmission. In the drive to Virginia, about five hundred miles, it rode extremely well and was responsive. So here are some basic newbie questions. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
1. Only came with one key. My last car, a VW Jetta killed me on keys. $300 each. (No, you can't get around it with the newer models. Me and a thousand owners will attest to it.). Can I get a key on Ebay and get it programmed with a local locksmith?
2. The GPS. I have a feeling I will need to take it to the dealer to have it upgraded and that it will cost me a small fortune. Any way around it? Frankly, I already have a great GPS but I do like the other features that come with it.
3. What "First Alert" items should I be made aware of as a new owner of an older Volvo, and even specific to this model?
4. Obviously, I suspect all of this has been answered a hundred times already. Could you give me the link on this forum so that no one has to repeat what is already posted.
Many thanks and I look forward to getting to know you online.
Tom Perkins
Sure enough, I noticed a slight "clunk" in reverse and some stiffness in the power steering. I have bought a half dozen this way and other than an individual who lied about smoking, were good deals. I got what I consider a good deal ($10K, 42K miles) and certainly expected to put at least a grand, maybe two into it. Did not expect the transmission. In the drive to Virginia, about five hundred miles, it rode extremely well and was responsive. So here are some basic newbie questions. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
1. Only came with one key. My last car, a VW Jetta killed me on keys. $300 each. (No, you can't get around it with the newer models. Me and a thousand owners will attest to it.). Can I get a key on Ebay and get it programmed with a local locksmith?
2. The GPS. I have a feeling I will need to take it to the dealer to have it upgraded and that it will cost me a small fortune. Any way around it? Frankly, I already have a great GPS but I do like the other features that come with it.
3. What "First Alert" items should I be made aware of as a new owner of an older Volvo, and even specific to this model?
4. Obviously, I suspect all of this has been answered a hundred times already. Could you give me the link on this forum so that no one has to repeat what is already posted.
Many thanks and I look forward to getting to know you online.
Tom Perkins
#2
12-05-2016, 10:14 PM
1. No a local locksmith can not code your key. Sorry to say, dealer only.
2. Call the dealer on the GPS to see if there are software updates available. That shouldn't be terribly expensive but again the unit is 10 years old and you should not expect it to perform as good as a 2016 version Garmin or TomTom bought at BestBuy... then again, Why bother with a GPS when your phone has it built in. Simply install the WAZE app and you will be amazed at how good WAZE is on traffic, routers, speed traps (yep, the power of social media doing something good vs a tweet about something).
3. Know your maintenance history. Number one item is timing belt/tensioners/idlers are due every 10 years or 100K miles. You car should have had it done at least once but better check. Car should also be ready for its third battery (5-6 years is normal for a car so you should have a new battery in there). I'm also a big fan of swapping out transmission fluid every 100K miles. You have both an automatic and a differential (aka angle gear). A full tranny flush at a dealer runs $300+ but you can get a local shop to do a drain and fill or two on the tranny for much less. Get a full mechanics inspection done. Even if you bought it from a place with a "100 point inspection" its well worth the $100 or so for your trusty local mechanic to let you know if anything is due or needs immediate attention. Thinks like torn CV joint boots, axle noises, bushings etc are all things a tech will spot right away.
2. Call the dealer on the GPS to see if there are software updates available. That shouldn't be terribly expensive but again the unit is 10 years old and you should not expect it to perform as good as a 2016 version Garmin or TomTom bought at BestBuy... then again, Why bother with a GPS when your phone has it built in. Simply install the WAZE app and you will be amazed at how good WAZE is on traffic, routers, speed traps (yep, the power of social media doing something good vs a tweet about something).
3. Know your maintenance history. Number one item is timing belt/tensioners/idlers are due every 10 years or 100K miles. You car should have had it done at least once but better check. Car should also be ready for its third battery (5-6 years is normal for a car so you should have a new battery in there). I'm also a big fan of swapping out transmission fluid every 100K miles. You have both an automatic and a differential (aka angle gear). A full tranny flush at a dealer runs $300+ but you can get a local shop to do a drain and fill or two on the tranny for much less. Get a full mechanics inspection done. Even if you bought it from a place with a "100 point inspection" its well worth the $100 or so for your trusty local mechanic to let you know if anything is due or needs immediate attention. Thinks like torn CV joint boots, axle noises, bushings etc are all things a tech will spot right away.
#3
12-06-2016, 04:16 PM
#4
03-27-2017, 06:14 PM
"1. No a local locksmith can not code your key. Sorry to say, dealer only. BOUGHT TWO KEYS ONLINE. LOCAL LOCKSMITH CUT THEM. TOOK THEM TO VOLVO DEALER FOR PROGRAMMING. BOTH WORKED BUT ONE HAS A "BAD" REMOTE THAT DOES NOT WORK BUT OPENS THE DOOR AND STARTS THE CAR. OH, WELL...
2. Call the dealer on the GPS to see if there are software updates available. That shouldn't be terribly expensive but again the unit is 10 years old and you should not expect it to perform as good as a 2016 version Garmin or TomTom bought at BestBuy... then again, Why bother with a GPS when your phone has it built in. Simply install the WAZE app and you will be amazed at how good WAZE is on traffic, routers, speed traps (yep, the power of social media doing something good vs a tweet about something). SERVICE MANAGER SAID DON'T BOTHER. $400 FOR TWO CD.'S I HAVE AN UP TO DATE GARMIN SO KIND OF SILLY ANYWAY. JUST DOWNLOADED "WAZE' I DO HAVE AN EXCELLENT TRAFFIC APT BUT NOTHING TO DO WITH SPEED TRAPS. I HAVE A STATE OF THE ART RADAR DETECTOR THAT I BOUGHT IN ARIZONA BEFORE MOVING TO VIRGINIA. GUESS WHICH STATE IS THE ONLY ONE THAT DOES NOT ALLOW RADAR DETECTORS? SIGH.
3. Know your maintenance history. Number one item is timing belt/tensioners/idlers are due every 10 years or 100K miles. You car should have had it done at least once but better check. Car should also be ready for its third battery (5-6 years is normal for a car so you should have a new battery in there). I'm also a big fan of swapping out transmission fluid every 100K miles. You have both an automatic and a differential (aka angle gear). A full tranny flush at a dealer runs $300+ but you can get a local shop to do a drain and fill or two on the tranny for much less. Get a full mechanics inspection done. Even if you bought it from a place with a "100 point inspection" its well worth the $100 or so for your trusty local mechanic to let you know if anything is due or needs immediate attention. Thinks like torn CV joint boots, axle noises, bushings etc are all things a tech will spot right away." TOOK IT TO MY FAVORITE MECHANIC. CHANGED ALL THE FLUIDS BUT FORGOT ABOUT TRANSMISSION. I WILL DO THAT WITH NEXT OIL CHANGE. ONLY PROBLEM WAS ALL DISC BRAKES CHANGED. ALSO HAD THE HEADLIGHTS ALIGNED. MUCH BETTER!
I JUST RECENTLY HAVE THE FAMOUS SCOURGE OF "HAVE ANTI-SKID CHECKED OUT" OR WHATEVER. FRUSTRATING AS THERE ARE SO MANY THINGS THAT COULD BE. DEALER SAID $3200 TO HAVE THE MODULE REPLACED, NOT TO INCLUDE LABOR. "LABOR" IS POPPING OF THE MODULE AND POPPING IT BACK ON. PROBLEM: IS THERE MORE THAN ONE MODULE. I HAVE FOUND USED DEM RANGING FROM 100-400 DOLLARS. TROUBLE IS, WHICH MODULE (MORE THAN ONE) AND HE DID NOT SAY WHAT THE EXACT PROBLEM WAS. JUST SAID IT IS "DEAD" AND WON'T RESPOND.
2. Call the dealer on the GPS to see if there are software updates available. That shouldn't be terribly expensive but again the unit is 10 years old and you should not expect it to perform as good as a 2016 version Garmin or TomTom bought at BestBuy... then again, Why bother with a GPS when your phone has it built in. Simply install the WAZE app and you will be amazed at how good WAZE is on traffic, routers, speed traps (yep, the power of social media doing something good vs a tweet about something). SERVICE MANAGER SAID DON'T BOTHER. $400 FOR TWO CD.'S I HAVE AN UP TO DATE GARMIN SO KIND OF SILLY ANYWAY. JUST DOWNLOADED "WAZE' I DO HAVE AN EXCELLENT TRAFFIC APT BUT NOTHING TO DO WITH SPEED TRAPS. I HAVE A STATE OF THE ART RADAR DETECTOR THAT I BOUGHT IN ARIZONA BEFORE MOVING TO VIRGINIA. GUESS WHICH STATE IS THE ONLY ONE THAT DOES NOT ALLOW RADAR DETECTORS? SIGH.
3. Know your maintenance history. Number one item is timing belt/tensioners/idlers are due every 10 years or 100K miles. You car should have had it done at least once but better check. Car should also be ready for its third battery (5-6 years is normal for a car so you should have a new battery in there). I'm also a big fan of swapping out transmission fluid every 100K miles. You have both an automatic and a differential (aka angle gear). A full tranny flush at a dealer runs $300+ but you can get a local shop to do a drain and fill or two on the tranny for much less. Get a full mechanics inspection done. Even if you bought it from a place with a "100 point inspection" its well worth the $100 or so for your trusty local mechanic to let you know if anything is due or needs immediate attention. Thinks like torn CV joint boots, axle noises, bushings etc are all things a tech will spot right away." TOOK IT TO MY FAVORITE MECHANIC. CHANGED ALL THE FLUIDS BUT FORGOT ABOUT TRANSMISSION. I WILL DO THAT WITH NEXT OIL CHANGE. ONLY PROBLEM WAS ALL DISC BRAKES CHANGED. ALSO HAD THE HEADLIGHTS ALIGNED. MUCH BETTER!
I JUST RECENTLY HAVE THE FAMOUS SCOURGE OF "HAVE ANTI-SKID CHECKED OUT" OR WHATEVER. FRUSTRATING AS THERE ARE SO MANY THINGS THAT COULD BE. DEALER SAID $3200 TO HAVE THE MODULE REPLACED, NOT TO INCLUDE LABOR. "LABOR" IS POPPING OF THE MODULE AND POPPING IT BACK ON. PROBLEM: IS THERE MORE THAN ONE MODULE. I HAVE FOUND USED DEM RANGING FROM 100-400 DOLLARS. TROUBLE IS, WHICH MODULE (MORE THAN ONE) AND HE DID NOT SAY WHAT THE EXACT PROBLEM WAS. JUST SAID IT IS "DEAD" AND WON'T RESPOND.
Last edited by aznav; 03-28-2017 at 08:05 AM.
#5
09-10-2017, 06:11 PM
Apologies for the long response. Waited forever for the module to correct anti-skid. Bought it off eBay used. Works fine, Volvo charged a mint to program it. They have no shame. Also solved the radio problem. The Forum talked about a GROM system for the 04 Volvo. It was incredibly easy to install via YouTube. The sound is absolutely incredible. I cannot believe how good it is and I almost dumped it for Big Box brand. Oh, you can also add Bluetooth but I am satisfied with my own setup on that. Had to put a new set of tires. The other ones were original (44K miles) but were dry rotting. The car is incredibly comfortable and handles quite well. I did notice that when you hit the gas to merge on the interstate there's about a one second delay before it kicks in. Also worried about the transmission with the occasional "clunk" when shifting but not going to do anything on that until it drops. I got an incredible deal on it but I also have sunk a lot of cash in getting it where it needs to be.
Lastly, it looks like some kind of trim or some such was removed from the door panel. Anyone know what it is and whether it can be replaced?
Lastly, it looks like some kind of trim or some such was removed from the door panel. Anyone know what it is and whether it can be replaced?
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