have an 01 s60. Both rear tires wearing very badly and fast just on the inside tread---now to the belts and didn't take long. Do these cars have rear alignment where the toe can be adjusted????????. If not any other possible causes, worn shocks . etc???????

 

Toe is the only adjustment available in the rear. It could be an adjustment issue or bent rear stay arms.

 

To check for toe and in the case of inner tire wear it would be toe out. Think of the tires pointing outward while toe in is pigeon toe.

1) Park your car some place as flat as possible.
2) Take a measuring tape and find a center groove on the front side of tire and stretch it under the car to the same center groove of the tire on the other side. Best to have someone help you.
3) Now measure the back side of the tire using those same grooves as your reference. Be sure to goes as high on the tire as possible but both sides must be at the same height with the suspension in the way being the highest point.
4) If the measurement in the front is greater than 1/4 of inch than the rear there will be inner tire wear. If it is less than 3/16 than your camber is out. Could be a combination of both and other suspension problems but the check will give you a quick reference especially if the wear is bad.

Many things can cause negative camber / inner tire wear and one is the shock absorbers. A new set of shocks can sometimes raise the car due to the Nitrogen Gas being full. If the wear also has cupping you need to change the shocks regardless of other issues. Since yours are evenly wearing very badly I suspect worn parts rather than bent unless you were airborne and landed evenly.

 

Shocks aren't going to affect camber. I've seen plenty of bent stay arms and I doubt my customers are going airborne.

 

thanks for the comments guy. Took it to a national chain that does alignment with the bad tire wear issue on back and they said they couldn't align citing bad FRONT control arm bushing that need replacing ( also suggested replacing CVs but I am feeling no front end issues at all/ no noises/no shake/ no popping or even vibration in the steering wheel---front end feels tight & front Tires are not wearing unusually bad in front. I understand now there are control arms on the rear as well---- I did the tires shake test and they felt tight/no wobble. Then I did a visual-----------and Sir you may be on to something. I saw a bar running horizontally with a bushing on each end and on i/n vendor calls it a lower control arm/ another calls it a trailing arm ( SEE ATTACHED PIC) and the right side one with the wore down threw the belts tire after 4 months and less than 4000 miles is bent somewhat (don't know how much bend or kind of bend is significant). Doesn't look like it should be hard for me a non-mech to replace myself--???????????. However wearing the insides out fast on the driver side rear as well and that same lower control looks straight and undamaged ?????????? I would suspect both sides are independent and a bent one on one side would not affect the other side's camber ????????.Any thoughts guys based on this????---I get the impression the backs cant be aligned independent of the front . Puzzled they cited front control arms and no mention on the bent back one?? CANT GET PIC ATTACHED ---heres link of it

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/20...ntrol_arm.html ( second pic shown/ control arm--rear lower rearward------$ 26.58 click to enlarge for a better picture

 

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What you have going on with the rear tire wear is independent at this time to the front due to the amount of wear. You may or may not indeed have front suspension issues and if you do they can't do one because they can't guarantee it. They want you to spend the money to fix the front and from the looks of Volvo's Diagram they only need to set the rear Toe as it may not have any bad bushings or bent parts. They will not know any of this till they put in on the rack and get some measurements.
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After spending your money to repair the front they will start the alignment to obtain "Before" measurements. At that time they will know if they can adjust the rear toe to spec or do you need parts due to something being bent. To summarize, with their initial visual inspection they want to change some parts in the front then after taking measurements they will decide how to approach the rear as they don't see any bushing problems and may just be able to adjust the toe for the wear.
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When I worked at Acura for about half a year (initially half a year at Pepboys) in my short lived auto repair career a customer brought in a newer Acura still under warranty. Said the car pulled badly and needed an alignment. Long story short I had adjusted the toe to the limits and it was still not in spec. After examining the car carefully I found a nick on his rim and scuff mark on his tire which he couldn't clean up . Hit something and bent something. My Manager was not happy with the customer and the customer opted not for us to repair it. Again, the alignment shop needs to get numbers for the rear after repairing the front. I would get a second opinion for the front because if it is OK you could go ahead and get it aligned after you install the tires of course.
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As for the rear, there is provision for Toe adjustment only. The part is #10. As you turn the concentric washer it will shift the Bar you are referring to to the left or right. Again, take a measuring tape and find the same groove front and back of the rear tires to get a rough measurement. The front should have a longer measurement than the rear. Toe In wears outer edge and Toe Out wears inner edge. I have been doing DYI alignments just using a measuring tape since the mid 90's after my Acura days for friends and family. Rarely has there been enough suspension problems to warrant a repair or taking it to an alignment shop.
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Lastly, with your car you have to take it to a shop as it's very difficult to adjust out the thrust angle even though the front and rear toes can all intensive purposes adjusted evenly to spec.
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That arm is what I was referring to. If it is bent, that's your problem. Seen it many times.

 

08c30T5 2.0 I really appreciate your time spend with that detailed explanation and you too ES6T giving some confirmation-------yes it is # 8 in that diagram that appears on the right where I used completely used up a tire in 4000 miles that it took a knock and bended it some--------don't how much bent is relevant but the quickness and severity of the tire wear suggests too much. Again if it weren't for the tires wear on back I would have never suspected I needed any alignment, rides fine with no pulling, vibration , popping or apparent looseness. When I visually looked at the front control all bushing they look like they may be drying out and cracking/beginning to breakdown perhaps but when I did all the tests on bad bushings per Youtube im not finding any evidence other than visual that I have any issues there yet. On a 20 year old vehicle not inclined to spend too much money for anything a shop wants to replace that is not evidencing itself in the ride.

Now to the bent arm in back. Is that as easy for me to do myself as would appear- ie a bolt/disconnect at both ends????? Being unfamiliar the part comes with out bushings, when I buy the bushings it appears they just easily set inside the arm and don't need to be pressed in like on front arms, right??????????. ( any unexpected problems to alert me for on something as this that looks pretty easy?). If the back was in alighment before that arm got bent, would it be a valid assumption that it gp back into alignment when I put a new arm on??????? Again they may say they cant allign it without new bushings up front ( CVs they want to do don't affect alignment do they) and I would pass on that expense/alignment in that case before spending $$$$ since I no apparent front end issues/ tires wearing OK, My only concern if the back right in particular with the somewhat bent arm--------again the driver side rear likewise is worn down bad on the inside but that's been on the car much much longer so not as much a concern

Thanks again guys for all your input and suggests and recommendations based on above

 

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I've taken the liberty for non-commercial use an image from this website. Good information if you are incline to understand the basics of alignment.
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https://www.autocraze.com.au/wheel-alignment-guide/
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The image is not a picture of a car but just explains Toe In & Toe Out. As I mentioned before, take a measuring tape and figure out the distance of the front of the tire vs the rear of the tire (RED LINES). Park the car at a place as flat as possible (Garage). Choose the same treads front and back. Make sure the height of the measuring tape is about the same front and back on the tire as you measure. This will let you know how bad the alignment is.

Forget about everything else for now. Let us know what you find.
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I replaced all the brake hoses with Stainless Braided hoses from FCP Sunday and the rear suspension of my 03 S80 T6 looks like the one pictured. That looks like it was designed to give during an accident.
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I meant to say struts and had assumed he had struts in the rear. Jesting about him being airborne then landing and changing the SAI. Shocks will not but Struts will change camber a little but not to the point of excessive tire wear. I just replaced the struts on my son's (mine if he gets in trouble) 08C30T5-2.0 and it raise the car almost an inch. That would change the Camber positive some as the old units just rest where ever you position it. He is not happy and we are discussing lowering springs.
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Rear Toe Rod Installation Instructions 2001-09 S60, 2001-07 V70 XC70. It is as easy as you thought to replace part #8! I suppose if you want more adjustability and strength you can upgrade.
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It is easy to change and you don't need the bushings unless they are damaged. Sometimes, the bolt (#9 in the picture) will seize into the bushing. If the bolt, but and eccentric washer look really rusty, they might be hard to get out. Not a bad idea to clean them up with a wire wheel and put some anti-seize on them. Might want to do that for the other arm too since you'll need it aligned anyway. If you need the bushings, they are pressed in. I can almost always save the bushing. I think I've only had to replace maybe two or three in my career.

It doesn't matter if it was aligned before- removing the arm requires removing the hardware that adjusts the alignment so it will need to be aligned again. If your front control arm bushings are That bad, places won't align it because an alignment won't hold. They can set the toe but if there is movement in the bushings, that can allow the control arm to move and result in handling issues. Of course, tire wear is the main concern so if you sign a waiver that you are aware of the control arm bushings and are aware there may still be handling issues even after aligned, they should have no problem aligning it. That way you won't chew up rear tires.

 

Nice to know I might not need the bushings . So I call Parts Geek who had a good price on this arm-------get some woman who was useless. It comes without bushings and I had confusion on line which bushing to order. She actually said she didn't know " we aren't mechanics" and then hung on me when I said not asking you to fix it but to only know your merchandise.. I was going to ask if these need to be pressed in but just looking at the pic I assumed they just set in??????---------are you telling me I will need special equipment to press bushings in once I determine which ones I need??????????-----------that makes an easy job more complicated doesn't it?. More concerned about back for sure so I would sign that alignment shop waiver unless they showed me on the rack movement in the fronts bushing. Below is pic on the arm on the right and on the left----right one looks noticeably worse in the pic that I perceived it first looking at it so im ordering one ( mabe ill get someone that knows their inventory if I call partsgeek back and decide to get the bushing just in case-------------should call another vendor since they actually hung up on me and shouldn't get the biz). Appreciate all your input thusfar

 

thanks the input -----------I'm going to order a new right rear arm---------but I guess im just not comprehending these measurements you wanted me to make. I cant run a tape measure from the top of the tire on one side to the top of the tire on the other as the red line pictures?

 

I wouldn't bother to make the measurements - its not like you are going to try and align the car at home and its not like putting in tie rod ends in the front where you want to get it close enough to center so you can go get an alignment. The only suggestion I'd have is to replace both rear arms - if one is worn out or bent, there's a resonable chance the other is as well.

 

The right side is definitely bent. Funny the alignment shop found your control arm bushings but totally missed that. The adjustment hardware does not look rusted at all. I'd bet money you won't need anything besides the arm.

 

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The control arm is badly bent so you won't need to take measurements. It was to help us know where your suspension was without seeing it or the tire wear.
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So I order the stay arm and figure what could be easier, just removing a bolt at each end and right out the gate I have issue and have to abandon . Yes, as you suggested I got the nut off the side away from the wheel and still could not spin the bolt out of the bushing??????????? and not knowing how the bushing is in didn't want to bang on the end of the bolt to see if I could drive it throw fearing I would mess up something and not be able to put tit back together securely.... I don't think it would be drivable with hammer thru bushing anyway. It seems to be a retainer of some type on the outside of the bushing. How do it get this bolt out??????????????, You said the bushing is pressed in?????????-----am I going to need some special equipment for that???????, If so I may as well just take it to a mechanic which I was hoping to avoid and DIY myself. Havent even looked at the side at the wheel yet to see if im going to have a similar getting it out issue. Appreciate your input on bolt removal without damaging anything needed for reassembly Thanks

 

You should have no problem hitting it out with a hammer. Make sure the wheels are off the ground.