Thanks to both you gentlemen for the guidance. Yes putting in the stay (stray ?0 arm was easy as expected once you blessed me knocking the bolt out with a hammer which seemed obviously but still had apprehension. So its on now---haven't tightened up on the bolts yet----but seeming replacing the bent one with a new one hasnet alone corrected the toe issue, right? I failed to look at video first and thus didn't measure the distance of the bolts before removing but seemingly the conspensator for the shorted length of the bents one vs the longer length of the new one is the slotted bolt hole, You indicated part #10 in the schematic is the adjustor, I believe you of course but just not doping how how that happens--------with the wheel off I cant by hand adjust the plane of the wheel assembly to simulate adjustment??????? So ill take it to the alignment shop and hope they don't tell me I need expensive front end work as the other place did---------just no indication of such driving it and tires wearing OK, the rear alone is my issue. So if they wont align it I would like to know if you would how I get close on the rear alignment with that # 10 adjuster, ie what is the process after I do the between tire measurement you suggested. Thanks again guys for the coaching---------on and 02 couldn't justify paying shop prices for what I might be able to do with guidance off forum and Youtube.

 

The picture is a little deceiving because it shows #10 on the bolt side, but it actually goes on the nut side. The washer (as well as the flange on the bolt) are offset. As they turn, the contact a raised part in the arm to move it in or out, adjusting toe. Tighten it all up. Then, loosen the nut slightly and turn the bolt. You'll see how it works.

 

Lol, I trust that's the adjuster and I can see the theory of the washer and bolt design but I did a 360 and honestly could not detect that arm moving/ moving the wheel assembly.. I can see how if the bolt was at the end of the slotted hole it could push/pull the wheel assembly in one direction but the opposite direction I would think it would just move the bolt itself to a different position of the slot rather than moving the arm. What's puzzling me is with the replaced arm bent up to shorten the arm span I logically would have thought that would bring the bottom inward ie toe out which per the pictures above is inconsistent with inside tire wear out . Seemingly my logic is flawed on that and the adjuster bolt/washer adjustment---------the arm is tightened and ill hit an alignment shop and see if they can alignment without claiming I need work up front. Thanks again for your input to date.

 

You sure it's on right? If you flip it around so the other bolt hole is at the center of the car then you would get no movement when turning the bolt.

 

I agree the arm would have to move rather than the bolt just repositioning itself in the elongated hole if I had it reversed. I'm sure that's the way I removed it and the schematic above shows the bolt and that washer on the elongated hole to the car center as does the video above. I'll just remained stumped why I didn't see any arm movement rotating it-------------guess I wont worry about it unless they wont or say they cant do an alignment.