Mid West IL, IN, IA, MI, MN, MO, OH, WI

would you rather

  #1  
Old 05-26-2011, 03:08 PM
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 2
Default would you rather

I am in the market for a used car that I can drive for 100k moles. So naturally I am looking into Volvos. I have about $5,000.

I think I have narrowed it down (unless you think I am way off) to a 1993 240GL with 100K (no rust), 1998 s70 T5 with 95k (needs brakes and speedo is glitchy), 2001 s80 T6 with 90k (actually the is $6,200), and a 2001 S40 1.9T with 115k (new brakes, timing belt...)

Except for the S80 all are within $4,500 to $5,000.

I commute 100 miles a day (all highway, half of it in stop and go traffic). I would just like to have a beater that will be reliable and not have a car payment for a few years.

Any suggestions?
 
  #2  
Old 05-26-2011, 05:46 PM
Banned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Seattle,WA
Posts: 404
Default

Originally Posted by Bean815 View Post
I am in the market for a used car that I can drive for 100k moles. So naturally I am looking into Volvos. I have about $5,000.

I think I have narrowed it down (unless you think I am way off) to a 1993 240GL with 100K (no rust), 1998 s70 T5 with 95k (needs brakes and speedo is glitchy), 2001 s80 T6 with 90k (actually the is $6,200), and a 2001 S40 1.9T with 115k (new brakes, timing belt...)

Except for the S80 all are within $4,500 to $5,000.

I commute 100 miles a day (all highway, half of it in stop and go traffic). I would just like to have a beater that will be reliable and not have a car payment for a few years.

Any suggestions?
Honestly you are all over the board. What are you truly and honestly looking to accomplish? Have a really cool looking fast expensive car to maintain or a practical not so stunning looking work horse that will save you money but most likely not get the chicks? I think what your saying is that you have so much to spend and you want the biggest bang for your buck but also you don't have much knowledge or know how to fix cars and do not want to break the bank on repairs correct? If I were you a smart purchase would be a pre 93 240 automatic. It does not have to have super low mileage just has to be mechanically sound because they will run forever. I say pre 93 because the 93 was the final year of the 240 and it has a one year only fuel injection system that does not interchange with any other year other than itself. So, the ECU is very expensive to replace if you can find a good one used or a new for that matter. Also has anti-lock brakes and air bag which if computer goes bad on either or abs unit...well you get it it's expensive to fix. So if you want the biggest bang for your buck, the least worries and least maintenance buy a 86-88 240. Now if you really have to have an airbag and antilock brakes go with a late 91 that may be equipped or a 92. But if you find a nice 86 just make sure you check the wire harness and make certain it has either been replaced or is good because in 86 they had bad wire harness issues. So if you can find an 87 or 88 in good shape you will have found the most trouble free 240(maybe even car) you can find. ECU's rarely go bad, no crank angle sensor to replace, you can adjust your own idle very easily, parts are inexpensive and plentiful etc. etc. etc. Now if you have to have a really cool fast car then stay away from Volvo all together unless you can work on them or have A LOT of money for up keep. If you just like the looks of the newer Volvo's get one without a turbo and make sure the idle control module has been replaced or that's going to cost you $1200. Also the newer models(front wheel drive models) are interference motors...you break a timing belt...bye bye top end. The 240 is non interference you break a belt...who cares pull over and put a new one on. I GUARANTEE you will spend more money on repairing your newer Volvo than you will have bought it for...if anyone one tells you otherwise they have no clue what they are talking about unless they can work on them themselves that is...for example a timing belt with front seals and a new water pump at a Volvo shop on a 240 will run you around $500 parts and labor give or take...on any of the models you mention above...$1200-$1500 easy. Oh and to replace a turbo? HA LOL! Mucho dinero senor. You need to really think about what is most important to you and then make a rational decision...not an emotional one...Good luck to you. Whatever car you choose take it in for a pre-buyers inspection to a VOLVO shop...not some guy that works on everything...you want a Volvo specialist...trust me.
 
  #3  
Old 05-26-2011, 06:08 PM
Typhoon's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 907
Default

You want to buy a used car that will run for 100k miles? A dream.
Spend $2k on the car and put $3k in the bank for repairs and REGULAR maintenance.
 
  #4  
Old 05-26-2011, 06:32 PM
Banned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Seattle,WA
Posts: 404
Default

Originally Posted by typhoon View Post
you want to buy a used car that will run for 100k miles? A dream.
Spend $2k on the car and put $3k in the bank for repairs and regular maintenance.

da truth!! Ha lol
 
  #5  
Old 05-27-2011, 08:21 AM
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 2
Default

I am having my 3rd kid and I am an accountant. Looking cool is too ambitious for me. Thanks for the detailed advice. I think the 240 is the way to go. I just hope I could find one with some service history. What does "pre-buyers" inspection go for these days?

Thanks again
 
  #6  
Old 05-27-2011, 11:24 AM
Banned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Seattle,WA
Posts: 404
Default

Originally Posted by Bean815 View Post
I am having my 3rd kid and I am an accountant. Looking cool is too ambitious for me. Thanks for the detailed advice. I think the 240 is the way to go. I just hope I could find one with some service history. What does "pre-buyers" inspection go for these days?

Thanks again
I would not be concerned at all with service history, car fax, etc etc etc...some folks do their own service and may not keep all records and as for car fax well who really cares if a car has been in an accident as long as it was repaired and there is no major frame damage or safety issues. Also, I have seen car fax or auto check or whatever have different information from each other so it's not always accurate. As a mechanic I am more concerned with what shape the car is in NOW. Not 2 years ago, not 4 weeks ago...NOW. You would be amazed on how many people think buying a car from the original owner (the little old lady down the street) is the best way to buy a car...WRONG! I have had 240's come in with only 90k original owner etc. that are in need of WAY more work than say a 240 with 200k and 7 owners but has had it's regular maintenance done. So, do not pass on a 240 with high miles or one that has been in an accident, or if the miles don't match auto check or car fax or whatever...look the car over with your own eyes, inspect the fluids, drive it and test all the gadgets (not many in a 240 ) and if you like it, it seems to drive well, look good and priced well...schedule a pre-buyer inspection with a local Volvo mechanic. There are usually 2 options at least I have 2 options. 1. Safety inspection 1hr labor charge ($60-$120hr) 2. Full inspection (typically runs $150-$200) The safety will check all suspension parts, brakes, mounts, a visual rust inspection, fluids including any leaks, a visual belt and hose inspection and a visual tune parts inspection. I also have the car running make sure all lights are working properly, it's starting and idling properly and gauges are working correctly. It's usually enough to tell if you have a good car or not but the full inspection is very detailed and it picks apart every aspect of the car. i.e. compression test, voltage test (make sure the charging system is functioning properly,pull codes if( 89-93), test O2 sensor, MAF sensor, test drive and make sure tranny is shifting properly in all gears and OD is working properly, pressure test system for any leaks including head gasket etc. etc. etc. Like I said a safety is usually sufficient but if you want to be extra cautious I would spend the extra and get a full. With that said do not walk away from a 240 if you get a laundry list of repairs needed...they all need something, some more than others. you have to remember they are 20+yo cars! I would tell you this. Unless, there is something MAJOR wrong with the car i.e bad motor, bad tranny etc. if you really love the car and everything else checks out and you are getting a great deal on it, buy it. Anything can be fixed(to an extent of course ) If you find a good and honest Volvo guy who is familiar with the 240 he'll/she'll be able to tell you if you should buy it or leave it. Good luck!
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
nicolas414
Off Topic
65
04-20-2016 09:19 AM
skottt160
General Volvo Chat
0
04-06-2015 10:00 PM
Paul in NM
Volvo S40
4
07-12-2013 07:31 AM
rspi
General Volvo Chat
8
10-07-2010 01:59 PM
cgabb1
Volvo V70
0
08-05-2004 12:25 AM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: would you rather


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.