Hi guys
I have not been able to search very well for past threads. Can someone please add a shortcut to any previous threads that would talk through replacing the seals on the front of the engine. Worked my way through the initial list of to do on my 200k "new to me" car. Thanks for the help last month! Everything went really well for a couple hundred miles of short trips but a oil leak started over the last 50 miles and got progressively worse. I redid the oil pan anaerobic gasket two days ago. Practice makes perfect right! As soon as I started it up this morning it took a couple extra cranks before it fired over, bad ticking noise, looked under the car saw it vomiting and turned it off right away. It ran maybe 20 seconds I just mitigated the oil leaking in the driveway and had other chores to do. If I can do some reading of old threads until the parts get here I would really appreciate getting help finding them. So far what I've been reading is not the same engine. I have got to get some sleep and get up early in the morning so I thought I'd ask for help!

Thank you!

 

most common oil leaks on the I-5s are the cam seals. This is usually tied to a clogged PCV system which creates too much crankcase pressure that pushing oil out the seals or worse, pushing out the seals themselves. The next common issue is the VVT system. the variable valve timing is driven by oil pressure so from time to time the hubs can leak. First thing to do is pull off the timing belt cover and make sure the belt is still clean. then if you see oil leaks, clean up as best you can and then restart the engine to see if you can tell where the fresh oil is coming from. Second thing to do is a "rubber glove test". Put a latex "surgeons" glove over the oil fill port (cap off...) and start the car. If the glove balloons out, you have a clocked PCV system. if it sucks in or flutters in and out, you are good. If you suspect the cam seals, you can try pushing the back in but it may be a good time to do a timing belt service and reinstall or replace the cam seals as part of the job. If you suspect the VVT system, there's other posts on the forum that talk to that. In both cases, also look for how to vids on Youtube. If the oil leak is on the back side of the engine and not under the timing belt cover, the number one suspect is the turbo oil return line seal. No single failed $.10 part can make more of a mess! Post up how you make out.

 

A common reason cam seals leak/get pushed out is the PCV system is clogged - Has that system been replaced?

 

I have gotten a pretty good grasp of the usual stuff. List below of what I have done using hoonks thread last month as a guide, using IPD and FCP for kits. Kind of lost track off the top of my head where I sourced, but tried for OEM equivalent. It is getting fuzzy because three cars in the family needed work and I was in between jobs tackling them. This helps to go back and review.

you tube used to research and created my own videos for documenting my learning process
fluids changed: oil of course, transmission, power steering, brake reservoir only
spark plugs
PCV system, complete kit with new banjo bolts
new intake manifold gasket
new oil pan seals including seals to cooler
anaerobic permatex sealant done twice, first time there was no squeeze out in the forward passenger side of pan so I pulled it and did it again, nice fine bead of squeeze out all around now. (This was after the small oil leak was progressing and didn't seem like it was from the seals. I let is sit for 36 hours before the above described oil vomiting start up)
timing belt kit with water pump, idle pulley and tensioner from AISIN
serpentine belt looked good so gave up on the one from the local supply after fighting it an hour and put it back on
vacuum hoses as needed with silicone ones
MANY hours of cleaning, throttle body and all the piping pulled included
engine mounts that were easy access while doing this other work. the ball shaped ones are in the box for future repair.

All this went really well. Super happy with myself and thought I had gotten a miracle to manifest in that the cam and crank seals all seemed okay. There was a relearning for the throttle I think on the first test drive that I got on the accelerator. Three or four deep surges and then acceleration came back and response continued to be excellent. I did order a rebuilt cardone throttle that is still in the box since it has not acted up since.

I will pop the hood again later this week and follow through with pulling off timing belt cover. IPD has a timing belt for $38 so I plan on tossing the one that is fouled rather than clean it unless you advise differently. Ordered a crank shaft seal and serpentine belt as well. From my observation the area below the cams looked dry when the leak was not catastrophic. I kind of think I should do those even if dry considering the condition the PCV was in. Sucks that my miracle didn't happen, but it should go quicker second time and it's only a few extra steps beyond the timing belt replacement task. But a little worried about pulling the cam pulleys so probably need the lock assembly. Gotta eat this elephant one bite at a time or it is intimidating. I am thankfully back to work, so progress will be slower.

My plan is to verify things turn well by hand once the serpentine belt is off. Should I pull the plugs to eliminate compression resistance? The manifold was off when I did the timing belt first time. Everything depends on that turning nicely, right? Most likely it ran for 10 seconds or so while puking before I killed it turning it off. I verify this while waiting on the crankshaft seal. Is the volvo S60 2.5t the same for this job? There are a few more you tube videos of that car. Oh, and what is meant by I-5? Inline 5 cylinder, right?

Thank you so much! I do pretty good for a driveway mechanic, but encouragement is welcome!!!! Good advice is priceless!

 

yes. see long reply to mt6127 for details.

Thank you!

 

amazing! good work :-) A couple comments - do you know when the timing belt was last serviced? Standard service is belt plus tensioner so if you are unsure of the last service, suggest you do the tensioner too. If your last service was recent and you're doing a wet belt, you may be able to reuse the tensioner (but its easier to install a new one). As to turning over by hand - turbo engines don't really have high compression (something like 8.5:1) so a wrench on the bottom nut should do the trick w/o removing the plugs. Then again if you want to install a fresh set of plugs, it would be a good time to do so. Volvo turbo engines do best with Genuine Volvo plugs :-) which mostly come pre-gapped.

 

This is the Aisin kit if the link works. Done less than 200 miles ago.

https://a.co/d/00Xcl5R

NGK plugs at the same time.

I really tried to hit all the areas to get another 100K from her. But allow full service life from components that are still performing well. 130K or so for second timing belt in the history.

Gonna go see if she spins now!!! I will report back in a bit….

updated:
Well, it’s too cold out without having kept the halogen task light under the engine. The plastic components don’t like it and I don’t either. gonna need to wait til the weekend to justify the cost of heating the engine bay out in the driveway. Smarter when I can put in a full day on her. Got the belts and crank seal just now. That’s good!

 

Another video asking for help!


Thank you!!!

 

Good news was the engine turned over several times by hand. T belt literally had only one drop of oil present. Serpentine belt is also dry. I added a video to a reply. Here it is again:


I hope it is not too much to ask you watch it and tell me what you think!

 

Hi guys.
Finally got some good weather and the time to look back into the oil puking.

Straight up rookie error. the oil sump o-rings had dislodged and prevented the oil pan from making a seal and of course it was spraying oil behind the harmonic balancer and disguising itself. Deep cleaning while timing belt and gear off allowed me to see paper thin gap between blocks and pan. I indeed, a piece of paper inserted. The bead of gasket seal had masked the gap prior to the deep cleaning.

New crank seal installed. Old one showed signs of age but not failure.

Got to get new o-rings cuz they were pinched.

But I can't figure out getting the oil pan up to the block without bumping around the oil pickup tube and just clearance issues with the frame. That must have been how I dislodged the orings, even though I set them with grease. Now that the oil pan is dropped realize I want to lift the engine to give myself some clearance.

My thoughts are to put a piece of deep strut or heavy gauge u channel across the bottom of the block so cams and bolt heads are not contacted by a 2x4 block. Then lift the engine with my floor jack. Bolts from affected mounts removed. Then wedge a block under the engine mount so I can remove floor jack.

I know the first time I dropped oil pan I was doing the engine mount at the same time so the engine was lifted up and wedged.

Am I on the right track? I'm just going to be bumping that oil pan around trying to get it to seat unless I gain clearance between the frame and the bottom of the oil pan?

 

On week two as my daily and all seems well. Yes you are right and then there is gapping the oil pan because the O-ring dislodged!

suffice to say that I have effectively brought the V70 to zero miles for the servicing schedule. I had a small progressive leak that I believe was the crankshaft seal.

The puking oil was for the reason above. As I had the harmonic balancer off to do the crank seal I could see the edge of the oil pan. Paper thin gap. Off with the oil pan AGAIN. This time raised the engine so I didn’t bump the oil pan seals.
The saga is mildly entertaining:


Thank you for taking some time to share your knowledge!

Rainey

 

Yes i see this