I recently replaced my distributor due to the fact that the hall sensor wiring had become exposed and eventually disconnected. It was easier to find a distributor w/ a good hall sensor than to buy and replace the old one.I got it on and checked the timing and every thing was fine until 2 of the wires on the ballast resistor were broken whilst checking my ignition amplifier.

O.K., so I order the ballast resistor, it arrives, I put it on and the car won't crank.I've checked the wires that plug into the resistor, i tested the resistor w/ an amp/ohm. meter and it shows it's working.I checked for spark on plug #1 and there isn't one, but gas is present on the plug.I checked the coil with said meter and it reads it's working and I guess it's down to the ignition amplifier, right?

Did it just happen to go bad at the same time as the ballast resistor/hall sensor or am I missing something? I've already thrown down my $93.00 for the new one,(ignition amplfier) to be here in 2 days, but if that doesn't work I'm lost!

Anyone out there have a clue?Should I take the distributor back off to double- check everything? I have replaced(w/new parts)the fuel pump(external), fuel filter, fuel pump(in-tank), 'screens' (in-tank), air mass meter, pressure regulator, intake hose, air filter, plugs/wires, battery, and all fuses have been checked/replaced and the fuel pump relay has been tested and is working! Help!
1985 760Turbo w/intercooler engine-B230FT 4cyl. 2.3litre
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Yup! It was the ignition amplifier. I put it on and it cranked right up.I suspect it played a role in the car stalling the whole time, but there were so many other things that needed to be replaced anyway(hall sensor/distributor, fuel pumps and filters).

I've heard that when, on these particular Volvos, you start replacing electrical/ignition/fuel system parts with new parts you have to replace eveything that's original. Or was that just my bad luck?[:@][8D]

 

Some are like that and others aren't.