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Returning here after 10 Years

Old Jun 26, 2016 | 08:44 PM
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Default Returning here after 10 Years

it's been over approximately 10 years since my last visit. I still have my 98 Volvo S70 with 240,000 miles. Last visit here I replaced the Timing Belt and then the EGR system. Been driving without any major issues. However with time comes other issues. I was traveling a few weeks ago. When I picked up my car it didn't start like normal. Had to keep the pedal to floor and it finally started. So driving on the highway when I got to an incline the car stumbled when I stepped on the pedal I let off but could feel the car losing power. Limped it off the highway and it died, Wouldn't start. Finally got it towed home. It started the next day. I figured it was a fuel pump or filter so I changed them both. Car started and I drove it down the road. When I turned it around and stepped on it the car stumbled again losing power. Put it back in the driveway and trying to analyze what could be causing the problem.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2016 | 07:59 AM
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welcome back! I have a 98 S70 also. Does your check engine light work? If you don't have any check engine light/codes, then that might suggest a look at the plug wires, coil, fuel pump relay. You can put a jumper in place of the fuel pump relay at least and see if it starts.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2016 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by firebirdparts
welcome back! I have a 98 S70 also. Does your check engine light work? If you don't have any check engine light/codes, then that might suggest a look at the plug wires, coil, fuel pump relay. You can put a jumper in place of the fuel pump relay at least and see if it starts.
my check engine light is on but was on before this episode. Since I can't drive it to Advance Auto to check the codes I was going to make up a jumper wire for the relay and also check out the distributor cap and wires next. Just don't want to throw more money into it!
 
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Old Jun 27, 2016 | 09:12 AM
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My favorite method for checking wires is to look at them in the pitch black dark with the engine running. But you can't do that.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 01:03 PM
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Well I took a leap of faith and pulled the distributor cap and rotor off. When I looked at the parts I knew, at least, that this could be a major reason it has no power. I replaced both items (taking off the rotor was not easy without a 3MM allen wrench), put the air box back in place and it started. let it run for 10 minutes, then took it for a ride. The CEL was still on but that was minor compared to it running. Drove it around for 10 miles without power loss. So one of my issues are done, next will be to drive it to Advance Auto. Will take a photo of cap & rotor for others to observe and comment
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 01:22 PM
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Well. I'd say that was a very good outcome so far.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 07:57 PM
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well I loaned my car to my daughter for a few days since hers is in the body shop. Once I get it back I will bring it over to Advance Auto to check out the codes. Will let you know. Thanks!
 
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