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Good evening.
My first Volvo. I typically restore BMWs. A family member gave me a 2000 S70 with 150K miles on it. It was free what do I have to loose?
I look forward to restoring the car and making it a daily driver.
I appreciate the time and effort it takes to run these forums and the wealth of information that becomes available. Anyway, thank you in advance for your and the members support and making forums like this possible.
Regards,
Nando
If you have experience wrenching on similar vintage euro cars, then you should find working on the Volvo to be pretty straight forward. Mostly its about knowing what the common fault areas are for your model. The 2000s were the first year that used coil on plug, variable valve timing and a drive by wire electronic throttle mechanism. Volvos also used timing belts (BMWs use timing chains for the most part) and the engines have aluminum components so that gives you some clues as to the problem areas. Things I'd do with a newly acquired early 2000s car:
1) Timing belt - service is 120K miles/10 years which ever comes first so your car should be on its third belt. Service replaces the tensioner as well. Since this is a VVT engine, If you do the belt yourself, you want to use a cam lock tool to allow you to reset the VVT hub (it gets counter-rotated during the install).
2) Fluid change - Volvos typically use either the blue or green anti-freeze. if you do the anti-freeze, its also a good time to do the overflow tank cap, the thermostat and consider replacing the engine coolant temp sensor (under the thermostat). The transmission is an Aisin - same as Toyota and Lexus so its very stout. If you decide to do a flush, I'd start with a series of drain/fills. Just make sure to grab the correct tranny fluid (the 4 and 5 speeds use different ones) - a common trick is to buy Toyota branded fluid.
3) Throttle body - best to read up on common ETM failure symtoms like a wandering idle etc. Bookmark Xemodex as the premier rebuild service, plus they have good content. They also rebuild CEM (central electronics module has relays etc on a common board) and ABS controllers, which are prone to cracked solder joints.
4) PCV systems - these can clog up in the engine ports, the pipes as well as the oil separator. Not sure if the 2000 is similar to the 850s where you lift up the intake manifold to service but you can do a simple surgeons glove test to determine if you have positive crank case pressure. Fix this before your engine walks out the cam seals and turns into a bleeder.
5) Suspension - if you hear clunks going over speed bumps / RR tracks etc, you may have to replace the strut's spring seats. Not a hard job, just annoying that they fail..Also check for worn sway bar end links,control arm bushing setc. OEM struts are Boge/Sachs so they are pretty firm to begin with.
Volvo friendly web stores like FCP Euro, IPD USA, EEuro Parts etc sell tools as well as timing belt kits. You can also google around or check out some of the more technical volvo forums like Matthews to see if any posts list the volvo tool number, then search on that.
The cam locking tool is only needed if you are going to replace a cam seal under the VVT gear. (or remove the head) Here's how Volvo says to replace the timing belt on a 5244s engine. Note this instruction that set the VVT gear in the correct position prior to belt removal: "Turn the crankshaft a further 1/4 turn clockwise and then back again until the markings correspond. The markings are illustrated. "
10-18-2022, 07:22 PM
Volvo Newbie
