HELP Buying an s60r that leaks coolant
 

Hi I found an s60r that apparently has a leaking coolant issue and cannot be driven. Here is the ad: Volvo S60R Not Running
Does anyone know what it could be and if it's worth buying and me fixing it myself? I build motorcycle engines and have some car experience, so I don't think it should be a problem aside from computer stuff, but I'll learn. Thanks in advance. I greatly appreciate any help.

I wouldn't touch it for that price. A coolant leak does not put it into any sort of limp mode. I would budget for replacement of the head, including timing belt and water pump.

Well i plan to negotiate of course he says he's flexible on the price. I will pay what it's worth I'm not attached to it or anything lol. Do you mean like a warped head? Like the sealing surface is warped?

I mean like the water pump blew up and took out the timing belt and bent the valves.

Or it just leaked and he drove it without coolant like an idiot and overheated it and blew the head gasket.

I don't think he is disclosing what happened, which is why I would be weary. Plus, once it is running, the clutch could be close to shot too.

He claims that a warning came on and he shut it off. I'm waiting for him to text me back on some other stuff, but hopefully it's just a leak. I know what you mean by the valves and everything being messed up, but if it starts up like normal and runs, then valves ar good. What are some things I can ask him?

Let's say the worst just happened. How much would everything cost? Would buying parts from a junkyard be an option or would I have to buy Volvo oem?

The ad says its not running.

If it just has a leaking water pump, it would not go into limp mode. And if it was shut off when the low coolant light came on, there should be no problem. He either doesn't know the actual problem or isn't saying. If it was so easy to "flip", why wouldn't he do it himself?

I have the feeling this guy doesn't know what he's talking about. Just from him saying that an air intake and minor "aftermarket" parts give it "much more" horsepower that 305 stock kinda shows he doesn't know much. I'm trying to get what little info he knows for sure that is undeniable when I see the car in person

He just said that he towed it home and would not try to start it because the timing belt was "loose". So sounds like your right. Valves have a high chance of being damaged as well as water pump and timing belt. Would that mean the valve seats are messed up too and I would have to get them recut if I get new valves. That's a quick assumption but just curious

Yeah so he is full of crap in the ad. The valves are trashed. With the cost of valves, it's usually cheaper to buy a new head, which comes with new valves, than it is to replace them all.

They need to be adjusted then though, which is done using different sized lifters. You could get lucky and be able to use the ones from the old head. Or you could need all new ones. You could also have a machine shop take care of it. No fast easy answer though.

If the timing belt breaks, that would cause a warning, every time, and things get quiet. His description sounds exactly like what I would expect.


So I think an R with a manual transmission would be awesome to have. This is one you have to build yourself, which would be fun to do. Don't pay much. start looking for a new engine. Certainly you could say it's "not worth it" but so what. People spend their time and money on all sorts of things.


The R model may have a unique cylinder head, and if so it may be the best option is to fix it all.

Ok thanks so much for the good info. I do appreciate it. Im gonna look up parts and see how much it costs. Do I go aftermarket for cylinder heads or OEM?

Firbirdparts,
I know what you mean about building it myself. That's how I got into flipping bikes, but I have to make sure it's worth it, so that it is more cost effective than just buying a running one. Swapping an engine is a feat I have not tried yet, but is something I want to do, but again it has to be worth it and the cost. Ive always wanted a v70r in 6 speed and just missed one but this will do just fine.

Also, is it common for a water pump to fail or f up the engine like it has at 100k? Has this thing had the sht beat out of it?

So it im not mistaken, the timing bet is what powers the water pump. Does that mean the actual wheel or pulpy on the water pump shaft broke or wiggled play to give the timing belt slack?

Do I have to quote you guys so u can see this or do u just keep checking?
Thanks guys

I'm a dealer tech so I haven't used any aftermarket heads. Couldn't advise you there. I would tear it down and then see how bad it is. See what a machine shop would charge to fix the head vs the cost of a new or aftermarket one. Just keep in mind the valve adjustment because if you need to buy all new lifters that can add to the cost significantly.

As for water pump failure, I have never seen one fail and cause a timing belt to jump. I've seen them leak from time to time but that's about it. I would bet this guy bought the car thinking it was a race car and drove it accordingly. That's why I would also be weary of the clutch.

So what do you think caused the timing belt to become "loose"? Just cause its at 100k? My xc70 we replaced the timing belt every 100k. A v70r I almost bought the guy said the water pump wheel part had play in it so he replaced it before it could damage anything if it could? I don't know if it was a bearing or what. I found some salvaged complete heads for less than 400 shipped and I'm gonna buy the IPD water pump and timing belt kit. I offered 2k and he accepted. A running ones worth 4K give or take so if I spend less than 1k on parts I think it will be a good deal as long as there's no surprises. Right now it looks like I'm spending 6-700 on parts so there's some room for surprises.

Its an 04, so the belt was due 2-3 years ago, regardless of mileage. Its usually the idler or tensioner that fails, not the belt.

I hope it works out for you. I'm glad you have some wiggle room there. Hopefully you have a fun car with no surprises. Keep us posted.

Yeah thanks again for all the help. Im buying it Saturday morning and ill start taking it apart or wait for parts to come, but I'm sure to have questions so stand by! Will

Found a complete head for 240 on eBay with camshaft and valve cover. It has 246k on it. Does the head typically give out? Is this a safe buy is what I'm asking? I'll buy it after I buy the car of course

No, the head should be fine. Might want to replace the seals and maybe get a valve job anyway while it's off though.

Valve job? Does that mean seats cut and new valves?

Really depends on the condition. A machine shop would need to inspect and recommend what's needed. With that kind of miles, I would spend the money now to recondition it and never have to worry again.