I'm sorry but are saying buy it and get it fixed or fix the one I have now?

I was talking about the eBay head since I assume it doesn't have bent valves. But it really depends on the damage. I wouldn't buy anything until its torn down to inspect. Then see what will cost less.

Ok gotcha. Is there a way to test if valves aren't bent before I take the head off? I'm wondering if somehow I can blow air through the spark plug hole to see if air is leaking out of the valves. I'm wondering if during the last few seconds of the engine running, the timing belt just jumped a tooth which caused the low performance light or whatever. One tooth shouldn't make the valves hit, but probably just barely run and like crap. I build dirtbikes motors and that's happened.

You could re-time it and do a cylinder leakage test.

I could do that but if it fails then I'd have to do the timing belt again basically to get to the head. I'll do it if I have to, but I was just thinking somehow jamming a tube in the spark plug hole so it seals and just blow air from my mouth into the cylinder

But you need the valves to all be closed. You could also pull the intake and look at the valves while turning the engine over by hand to see if they ever close.

The valves are closed cause there's no belt to turn the lobes to hit the valves. I just got back and pulled it off the trailer. Looks pretty good. The timing belt wasn't "loose". It wasn't even on all the way. Im hoping that it just came off instead of jumping teeth and then coming off because then the valves wouldn't have a chance to hit the pistons because they cant open. Have you seen this before? If so what usually happens?

They can't all be closed.

The belt wasn't on? I'd bet my house the valves are bent.

Yeah now that I think about it. I work on single cylinder engines so if you don't have the cam chain on then the valve springs will just pus the lobes on the camshaft until there is no load but that's not possible when there's 5 cylinders I guess. Sorry I'm new to working on cars. Well ill push my bikes out of the way so I can fit the car in my garage and start the disassembly

Started taking the head off I cant get the valve cover off for some reason. I think there's a bolt or something I can't find. Theres these 2 plastic end pieces on the camshaft on the right side is what im thinking I have to take off? Gonna have another go when I get home abut figured I'd ask to save some time. Also do I have to take the whole turbo off and take mainfold off or can I just unbolt both the intake and exhaust manifold and slide the head directly up?

The cam cover is usually hard to get off. There's a special tool to pry it off at certain points. There are also tools to allow it to slowly come off to avoid cracking it. If it cracks, the head is junk. You'll need the special tool kit for retiming it all when you're done anyway.

You can unbolt the manifold and get the head off with the manifold still in the car.

What's this special tool for timing? I tried heat and wd40 to get the cover off but failed. I'm just gonna buy this pry tool you speak of because I'm pretty sure I chipped a small piece off a pry tab in the back. I can only work on it on weekends because I stay at my moms house during school and my dads on weekends which has a garage with my car, so I'm in no rush. I'll try to get it done when I can, but will definetly finish it over Christmas break if not sooner. I'm gonna order parts once I take the head off. Thanks

Here's a pic of the car by the way

Also I can't find much info on this particular engine or any Volvo after 2000 on heads. I did see someone mentioned something about marking timing before you take the cams off or something? Sorry if I'm making you hold my hand. I've never done this and have no one to show me except what I find on the Internet. Thanks!