*I meant it dies when I put it in gear*
**solved**
I just replaced my main fuel pump with a used one I had as backup. The "new" pump is a little loud, not too bad and I had run STA-BIL through it and stored it in a bag. The pump that was on the car had let go internally and was leaking fuel from the delivery end. The car starts and idles normally, but when put into gear it just dies. It doesn't really even engage the transmission (auto.). When moved from park or neutral into drive or reverse it just cuts out. It doesn't sputter, it just goes to sleep. I have checked that the engine isn't affecting any wires by it's movement (soft mounts). Anyway, looking to start poking around in the morning; any ideas?

 

with the key off, use an electrical cliplead to jumper the left side of fuse 6 or 8 (always powered) to the left side of fuse 4 (fuel pumps). you should hear both pumps run. let them run a half minute or so to flush the system, do they smooth out ?

if you remove fuse 4, and jumper the left side of 6-8 to the right side of 4, only the in-tank pump runs, can you hear this at the gas cap ?

how stable is the idle while you're in neutral ? when you put it in gear, do you feel any clunk or shudder as it stalls, or is it just like you switched the key off?

 

O.K. so the legend on my fuse panel has the in-tank pump on fuse #5 and the main pump on fuse #7. With the key off, I jumpered the left side of fuse 5 to the left side of fuse 8 and both pumps run. When I removed fuse 5 and jumpered the right side, nothing runs. With the car running, I can hear the in-tank pump running holding a hose to my ear from the fuel tank.

The original condition has changed since last night. The car idles rock steady and did clunk and die in reverse but it was shifting into drive and still running. It does now, however, die while idling. Last night it was just cutting out as soon as the shift lever moved to a gear.

Right now, it runs in drive until it dies, will die from a steady idle, but dies when reverse engages no matter what.

I think the pumps are both wired to fuse 5, I get no action when I jumper fuse 7(main)?

Would not surprise me if the P.O. did this, I have been running daily for over a year without running issues more or less though.

I am going to reinstall the old leaking pump to rule out the filter having clogged. It has a diffuse leak from the face of it, but (yes #extinguisher).

 

Now the car will not start or prime the pumps. I have had to turn the key twice most of the time to prime the pumps for a while now. HOWEVER:

When I jumper the relay socket, the car starts and runs normally and does not die. I have interchanged the 4 fuel/system relays I have and they all work for the system relay when the key is turned. Going to see if the pump wiring is secure now. So it goes.

 

have checked pump wires, all secure. Began electrical testing. Found that only one of my relays primes the pumps and runs the car, still dies only when shifted to reverse.

As per my manual, I have system 2.0 with identical system and fuel relays instead of the bigger combo relay. Results:

Have battery voltage at terminal 87 while car is running/ cranking. Running with "good" relay and cranking with "bad" relay. The "bad" relay will not prime/ run, but tests good in this test.

With ignition off, have battery voltage at terminal 30 and NO voltage at terminal 86. According to manual, should have battery voltage at both, so seems terminal 86 may be the problem. Now to find that wiring...Halp!

 

Also, all of my relays operate when 12V is applied between terminals 86 and 85. Should they operate with any other electrical input?
They are part# 0 332 209 158 Bosch.

 

83 is deep in the 'biodegradable wiring' era for Volvo... what condition is the engine wiring harness in? if the insulation is brittle and cracking under the black tubes, you're never going to get it sorted out, short of building a new harness.

 

Yes, it is not very flexible. I have not seen much cracking. I am looking at my wire diagram and it seems one side of the terminal 86 wiring goes to the ECU and the other to the fuse panel. It seems to change from bl-r to bl-y. It goes through a couple of rectangles with two dots in them, then an arrow to 10/12 which I assume is on the fuse panel. Weird part is 10 is the fuse box, 12 is the bulb failure warning sensor...seem likely?

 

its when its like this inside the black sheaths that all bets are off.



thats from a mercedes, but early 80s volvos had the same problem as mid 90s mercedes.

 

Not even close to that, the wire insulation from the ECU and to the ICU completely intact, just hard. I have inspected inside the sheathing when I got the car.

 

I'm thinking I can test continuity from the relay socket terminal 86 to the ECU terminal 18, but the other wire from terminal 86 seems to end up at the bulb failure warning sensor and I can't see why this would be so. It's the best I can figure from the wire diagram, but that just doesn't make sense.

 

I only have a 1984 240 wiring diagram.

it shows two relays in the LH-II injection, "E" (aka 217) is the "main" relay, "F" (216) is the fuel pump relay.

battery + via fuse 25 goes to pin 30 on both relays. it also goes to pin 86 of 'E'.

ignition switch goes to fuse 13, and fuse 13 goes to ECU pin 18 via blue-red, 18 goes blue-red to relay F pin 86.

ECU pin 17 is blue-green to "F" pin 85, this grounds the relay coil to turn on the fuel pumps.

"F" pin 87 (switched power) is yellow-red, and goes to fuse 5 and the main fuel pump. this 1984 diagram only shows one fuel pump on LH cars?? (the other side of fuse 5 goes nowhere??)... these diagrams show an in-tank pump on the CIS-E version (not sold in the US after about 81?)

yellow-red ALSO goes to the 4 injectors, and to a green-red wire thats the power for the idle air controller.

if you want to jumper/bypass one of these relays, you jumper 30 to 87, using a reasonably thick wire (not something hair thin).

 

O.K., I just ran continuity between fuse 13 and relay F terminal 86 and got between 000.3 and 000.4 Ohms. I ran continuity between relay F terminal 86 and pin 18 on the ECU and got 000.0 Ohms.

My Haynes and Bentley manuals have the same diagram, showing Fuse 13 to be the bulb warning?

Yes, my car has 2 pumps, nominally running off fuses 5 and 7.

Thanks, I'll go run continuity on ECU pin 17 to F relay pin 85.

 

Continuity from ECU pin 17 to Relay F pin 85 is 000.1 Ohms, sometimes flashing to 000.2 Ohms. Any of these values jump out at you?

I have jumpered Relay F socket pin 30 to 87, car runs normally, no dying.

 

My fuse 5 has 2 yellow/red at the back terminal and one yellow/red coming off the front terminal. My legend says that's the in-tank pump and Fuse 7 my main pump, which has a thicker red wire on the rear terminal and nothing off the front.

 

fuse 13 is ignition switched power, and my 84 diagram (volvo greenbook) lists it as ALL of the following...

• Combined Instrument Panel
• Relay, cooling fan
• Direction Indicators
• Seat Belt Reminder
• LH-Jetronic II

along with other stuff specific to diesel or carbbed models

and while its not listed there, the bulb-out indicator light bulb comes off that fuse, too.

 

the fuse legends do say that about fuse 7, but I believe that's only used on the K-Jet versions. the big one-giant-page-broken-into-many-hard-to-read-pages schematics in the back of Bentley etc cover ALL versions of the car, so you have to really study them to figure out what applies to LH-Jet vs K-Jet.

VADIS (older Volvo parts catalog) also suggests that only the K-Jet cars have an in-tank pump in 83/84-ish, and the LH don't. I know our 1987 LH2.2 car DOES have an intank pump, but there's lots of changes between 84 and 87 (tank pump on fuse 4 instead of 5, etc etc etc).

 

On each fuse, the rear-most (rightmost?) terminal is the 'input', and the middle and front-most(leftmost?) are outputs.

the two yellow-reds in front are 1) switched power from the fuel pump relay, and 2) power /to/ the main pump (which is NOT fused on LH2 cars).

the rear wire on fuse 5 may go to a tank pump after all, or it may just be in the harness in case you do have a tank pump. removing fuse 5, and jumpering 6-or-7-or-8 (always powered) to the RIGHT side of the fuse terminals should power that solo yellow-red wire, and if you have a in-tank pump, you'd hear it at the gas filler pipe (remove the cap)

 

My fuse 5 has 2 wires at the rear terminal and one wire at the front terminal, is it possible these are reversed?

 

More of my relays are now priming the pumps. The car is, however now dying at random. The relay clicks and it shuts off. When it is running, it is no longer dying when shifted into a gear. Still running as normal when jumpered. For sure this is seeming more like a short somewhere.

Is 000.4 Ohms problematic for continuity?

BTW, what are the rectangles with two dots in them that the wire passes through on the diagrams?