just got a 90' DL wagon recently with about 200k on the clock, it runs great except when i start it up it idles fine sometimes then shootsup to like what sounds like 2 grand or so, sometimes if i tap the gas it will come down off its high idle, but it goes back again

this happens at lights too when the car is in gear, i know that isnt good for the trans,

How can i fix this problem

Thanks in advance,

Jeff

 

Try cleaning the throttle body and idle motor.

 

what is the idle motor, and how could a dirty throttle body relate to my problem

 

You would be suprised how it could relate.
The idle motor is a round cylinder looking thing under the intake with 2 hoses going to it.
The switch on the side of the throttle body controls the idle circuit. If the throttle body is gummed up then it can mess with the idle motor and computer.

 

what do the two tubes on the idle motor do, whats in them, are they for air temp or coolant?

 

It carries air to the throttle body from the Air box.

 

i just took the plugs out of the idle motor on the side of the throttle body and the one on the idle motor and sprayed them down with contact cleaner and they didnt look bad anyways and the problem still exists

what is the cold start valve, could that be it, this problem only happens when it is cold outside which is all the time now because i live in CT.

more help please thanks

jeff

 

The cold start Valve if you have one is mounted in the back side of the intake.
It will have a fuel line running to it.
It injects extra fuel for Cold start.

 

can i take the IDLE VALVE off and clean it out, will that help at all?

i'm at my whits end, this thing is idling worse now and tapping the gas pedal does nothing

 

Try it that might help.

 

k i'm in desperate need here, it still idles high every once and a while, espically when i take it out of gear to go into reverse or Drive

also i have an exhaust leak before the CAT and was wondering if that could be tied to my Service light coming on for approx 2 min, and my poor fuel economy, (12mpg city) (15 city + highway)

{PLEASE HELP!!}

 

Sounds like it might be time to see what the computer has stored for codes if your CEL is coming on for a few minutes. Do you know how to get it to flash the red LED under the hood near the brake master cylinder? If not I'm sure one of us can walk you through it, it's very easy and can help narrow down the problem for you.

If I had to guess, and I know you checked this, I would say due to your dismal mileage and idling problems that your problem is either your MAF sensor and/or your O2 sensor, and I would get that leak fixed as soon as possible because the O2 sensor isn't able to read the correct exhaust emissions and make the necessary adjustments when there is a leak in front of it.

Dale

 

i dont know where this red LED light is, can you help me with that

 

Sure can ss, sorry I wasn't able to get back to you sooner. I finally figured out how to change the mileage on another instrument cluster that I wanted to install in my car. It was no easy task but I wanted it set to the current mileage that I have, I'm kinda proud of my 202K miles...

Anyhow, back to your LED. Open your hood and look aft of your left strut near your brake master cylinder. You should see a little black box no bigger then approx. 1x2". Let me know if you can find it. While I'm waiting I'll go take a pic and attach it for ya.

 

Here's a few pics to help you out.

 

Ok, stick the little connector into port 2, turn your key to the on position, (engine off), press the button for approx. 1 second, then count the flashes. It will be a 3 digit code, so let's use code 311 for example, the LED will flash 3 times, pause, 1 flash, pause, 1 flash. Press and hold the button again for a second then release, then count the flashes again. If you get the same sequence then that's the only code. Now put the connector into port 6 and do the same thing. Make sure you read all of the codes until you are getting repeat codes, of which means you've seen them all. Let us know what codes you have in which sockets (2 and 6). I don't have the master list here but I bet "tech" does. Between the 2 of us we should be able to figure out what the code means.

 

alright just got back in from doing the above for both port 2 and port 6

for port 2 it flashed the code 232 (according to my Haynes book means : Fuel system compensating for rich or lean mixture at idle)

port 6 flashed 111 which means no problems


now how do i fix the 232 code from port 2 ?

thanks in advance,

Jeff

 

Ok, here's where the OBD1 can at least tell you a little as to what is going on. Rarely enough to go right to the problem but at least enough to get you on the right track. Your code deciphering is exact, the computer has detected that you are running either too lean or too rich at idle and is unable to compensate for it withadjustments. So you're looking for a leaking fuel pressure regulator, an idle control valve stuck open or closed, a disconnected hose somewhere on your intake, if your brakes are feeling a little weak you could have an intake leak at your brake booster. It's going to be a process of elimination, start with the easy things first like I mentioned and then one by one scratch them off the list. I had the hose on the back side of my intake pop off, (the one that hooks to the black intake duct right before the throttle body), and it caused this same code because the engine was running lean. Then I had this same code again because my fuel pressure regulator was leaking. You can spray some carb cleaner or WD-40 around your intake lines looking for a jump in idle speed, that's a fairly easy way to look for intake leaks. A better thing to use is propane from a propane torch, it's less messy that way but flammable solvents work well too. Just don't get any on your exhaust manifold because they are flammable. Let us know what you find.

 

well i just got back up to college today, and we cant have cars up here so i'll have to check the next time i'm home, i took off the idle valve to clean it a while ago and knoticed that the part that opens and closes was partly open and looked to be chipped a bit, that could be the cluprit,i'll have to check the regulator too, but never the less thanks for the reply

Jeff

 

Sounds like you may have found your problem Jeff. The IAC has it's own code but it will only detect non-motion. Another words if yours is moving but partly stuck open, then it won't throw a code. So good luck when you get back home and I bet you found the culprit. Good for you Jeff!!!

Dale