1990 dl 240 wagon NON ABS


Recently my wagon, got a soft brake pedal and the brake failure light

came on. I have a Motive power bleeder, so I pressurized the system and

it held pressure for 15 minutes. So I bleed the brakes (actully I

replaced all the fluid with DOT 4). What bled out was, rust colored, I

bled until it ran clear with no bubbles.

I got some air out of the RR and not as much out of the LR. No air from

RF and LF. No change, in the condition. Bled everything again, still no

change.

So should my next step be replace the master cylinder? If yes, anyone got

any suggestions about replacement brand?

THANKS IN ADVANCE

 

If there are no external leaks my next step would be the master cylinder.

ATE brand is good. FCP has them:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...category_id/60

Be sure to bench bleed it before installing.

It is generally recommended to replace the octopus at the same time, the junction box. But that's up to you. It's a bear to replace with all those brake lines. Easy to mess up.

 

Thanks for the info, I looked at the octopus and thought the same thing, it didn't appear to leak and the system did hold pressure. So a shopping I will go.

 

Is replacemnt pretty straigtforward, anything to watch for?

 

Pretty straightforward. Just don't kink the lines. Use a nice tight fitting flair nut wrench. Fresh DOT4.

 

Well, I bench bled the master cylinder removed and replaced the old MC bled the brake lines(no air noted). I still have the soft pedal and Brake Failure light. So I guess I am looking at the dreaded octopus, right? What goes wrong in those things? Isn't it just sort of a distribution point? Would the o-rings for the shaft with the insulated non insulated parts go bad? Can they be rebuilt?

THANKS IN ADVANCE

 

Sorry to hear that. That was the case when my master cylinder blew. Brake warning light, bad octopus. I refused to change it myself. Paid a Volvo tech to do it. Got the 12-mo warranty.

I've heard of guys replacing just the switch, with mixed results. The problem is the thing was really designed to signal an imbalance in the two sub-systems one time. Returning the sleeve to the neutral position doesn't seat the seals properly.




[IMG]local://upfiles/7929/331DF89006A04363AAFBFAF4D9AB2BD5.jpg[/IMG]

 

Well I now have brakes at the end of the pedal travel. When the pedal has gone to the end the BRAKE FAILRE light is on, release the pedal and it goes out, so I think it could be the proportioning valve. Has anyone had to replace the proportioning valve for the brakes in a 1990dl 240 wagon? I have an octopus coming but the more I read, the more I think it is the proportioning valve. Is this a dealer only item?

Thanks in advance

 

1990 DL 240 Wagon
Hello fellow Bricksters,

I am still fighting the soft brake pedal and the brake failure light. This is after replacing the Master Cylinder (from Advanced Auto maybe bad out of the box?) which I bench bled, bleeding the brakes times 3.

I am using a Motive Power Bleeder and the system holds pressure for at least 30 minutes at about 10 P.S.I. The brake failure light will reset at times but continues to come on, the soft pedal never changes. I am truly at wits end here. I don't think they are related, but what are the symptoms of the brake booster failure? Never had one go bad.

Any and all help will be appreciated.

Thanks