1994 940 Turbo Just Won't Start!
Original owner of car with about 140000 miles never had any engine/starting issues. Timing belt replaced every 50000 miles. I drive it intermittently. I used it the other day started right up, went to store, started up again no problem. A few hours later went to start and all it did was crank but did not fire. Have good fuel pressure but found no spark. Changes plugs, cap, rotor, coil, and RPM sensor. Attempt to start, cranks and attempts to start but will not run. No codes. Sounds like it is 180 degrees off or something strange. Unhooked battery in attempt to reset to no avail. All I did was replace parts no major adjustments. Any ideas? I searched other posts and can't find similar problems.
Thanks for any assistance.
Thanks for any assistance.
you said there is no spark? crank the car a few times, remove a spark plug, and verify its wet with fuel. plug this plug into its wire, firmly ground the side of the sparkplug to a bolt on the valve cover, and have someone crank the car so you can verify there's no spark.
IF it fails that test, then...
Take a voltmeter or test light, check for 12V on the ignition coil pin 15 when the key is on (other side of meter to chassis ground anywhere handy). if you're not getting power here with the key on, check the 'radio suppression' relay, which should be near the front of the left suspension tower near the power steering reservoir, and the ABS modulator. the radio suppression relay is controlled by the fuel injection and pump relay, which is behind the ashtray in the main fuse panel.
the ICU (Ignition Control Unit) generates the timing pulse that goes to the ignition power module, which switches the coil pin 1 to ground. with car switched on but not cranked, coil pin 1 should also measure about 12V relative to ground.
connect volt meter or test light between ignition coil pins 15 and pin 1, with the car on it should be nearly zero V. have friend crank car, you should see a few volts, maybe in pulses depending on your meter, or the test light should blink. if you had volts on pin 15, but no blinking from 15-1 then the ignition power module or the ICU is suspect (but if it is the ICU, the fuel injectors wouldn't be firing either, and that plug wouldn't have been wet)
IF it fails that test, then...
Take a voltmeter or test light, check for 12V on the ignition coil pin 15 when the key is on (other side of meter to chassis ground anywhere handy). if you're not getting power here with the key on, check the 'radio suppression' relay, which should be near the front of the left suspension tower near the power steering reservoir, and the ABS modulator. the radio suppression relay is controlled by the fuel injection and pump relay, which is behind the ashtray in the main fuse panel.
the ICU (Ignition Control Unit) generates the timing pulse that goes to the ignition power module, which switches the coil pin 1 to ground. with car switched on but not cranked, coil pin 1 should also measure about 12V relative to ground.
connect volt meter or test light between ignition coil pins 15 and pin 1, with the car on it should be nearly zero V. have friend crank car, you should see a few volts, maybe in pulses depending on your meter, or the test light should blink. if you had volts on pin 15, but no blinking from 15-1 then the ignition power module or the ICU is suspect (but if it is the ICU, the fuel injectors wouldn't be firing either, and that plug wouldn't have been wet)
Thank you for your insight on the issue however after I posted I again tinkered with the car and would you believe just by a stroke of luck I figured out the problem. While checking again for spark I used an old plug and pulled the plug wire nearest the water pump end of the engine and my wife cranked it and it started, though it ran rough I realized I crossed two plug wires. Once corrected car runs great. Again I appreciate your quick response, keep up the good work!
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