240 Belt / Alternator Ground Issue / Torque specs?
#1
240 Belt / Alternator Ground Issue / Torque specs?
Belt Routing / Alternator Issue
Hi guys, new here & just bought my 2nd 240 after a 15 year break. My 1991 Volvo 240 (Base) w/B23F 4cyl engine (original). It had 2 new belts on it bypassing the shot A/C compressor so it's Alternator/Crankshaft/ Coolant Pump as it should be but then uses a 2nd belt to run the P/S pump off the outer crankshaft pulley groove. Ran fine & quiet when bought for a month or so. Just after a month, I noticed a squeaking for 3 days. Then battery got low on charge (& went dead). Then a screeching and smell of burning belts/starting problem. Tested & Charged battery, test good. Took off the alternator belt & she turned over just fine, no noise. Turned PS pump by hand, turned fine. Took alternator off & checked it at O'Reilly auto on the machine 3 times to be sure, tested fine & no noise. Soooo. Bought new Bushings (3) and have installed them. Bought new belts (They were cheap) in case the old were tensioned improperly & caused uneven wear? Maybe the improvised bypass caused this? Thoughts? (I do have a used compressor I plan to install eventually & use the correct belts if this is the case, but would rather not right now if you don't think the bypass routing may have been a cause etc.)
Alternator to Ground Wire Issue
2nd, upon re-installing the alternator, the blue/black wire (ground to block) seems to have been pulled out of the stock fitting/harness/part that secures it to the block (Looks like a black colored oil pressure sensor shaped thing made of rubber with the wire feeding into a hole in the back of it. the wire has pulled out) How do I get the wire reconnected properly? Any tips to get the block part off (Cant figure it out)? Any ides how the wire connects inside it (aka need a trip to pull a part to get a new one with attached wire or remove it & reconnect?
Torque Specs Question
Are there any torque specs for the alternator mounting bolt(s) or if not, tips as to how much to tighten them?
Thanks in Advance!
Hi guys, new here & just bought my 2nd 240 after a 15 year break. My 1991 Volvo 240 (Base) w/B23F 4cyl engine (original). It had 2 new belts on it bypassing the shot A/C compressor so it's Alternator/Crankshaft/ Coolant Pump as it should be but then uses a 2nd belt to run the P/S pump off the outer crankshaft pulley groove. Ran fine & quiet when bought for a month or so. Just after a month, I noticed a squeaking for 3 days. Then battery got low on charge (& went dead). Then a screeching and smell of burning belts/starting problem. Tested & Charged battery, test good. Took off the alternator belt & she turned over just fine, no noise. Turned PS pump by hand, turned fine. Took alternator off & checked it at O'Reilly auto on the machine 3 times to be sure, tested fine & no noise. Soooo. Bought new Bushings (3) and have installed them. Bought new belts (They were cheap) in case the old were tensioned improperly & caused uneven wear? Maybe the improvised bypass caused this? Thoughts? (I do have a used compressor I plan to install eventually & use the correct belts if this is the case, but would rather not right now if you don't think the bypass routing may have been a cause etc.)
Alternator to Ground Wire Issue
2nd, upon re-installing the alternator, the blue/black wire (ground to block) seems to have been pulled out of the stock fitting/harness/part that secures it to the block (Looks like a black colored oil pressure sensor shaped thing made of rubber with the wire feeding into a hole in the back of it. the wire has pulled out) How do I get the wire reconnected properly? Any tips to get the block part off (Cant figure it out)? Any ides how the wire connects inside it (aka need a trip to pull a part to get a new one with attached wire or remove it & reconnect?
Torque Specs Question
Are there any torque specs for the alternator mounting bolt(s) or if not, tips as to how much to tighten them?
Thanks in Advance!
#2
Normally on the 240, there are two identical belts that run the alternator & water pump. Then a single belt (the frontmost belt on the crank pulley) runs the air conditioning compressor. There is a fourth belt that runs from the air conditioner compressor to power steering pump. This fourth belt is on the rear pulley of the air conditioner compressor.
If they skipped the air conditioner compressor and ran the power steering pump directly from the crank pulley, that tells me that they must have only one belt running the alternator/water pump. If so, this belt may be slipping since it was designed to have two belts.
I would try to restore the belt configuration to original. Make sure all the bushings are good so the pulleys line up. I couldn't find any torque specs in my Haynes manual but I just make sure they're good & tight without trying to bust them off.
As far as the wiring is concerned, I am having trouble understanding what you are talking about. I think that my alternator had simple loop connectors that are crimped on the wires. Maybe you could post a pic?
If they skipped the air conditioner compressor and ran the power steering pump directly from the crank pulley, that tells me that they must have only one belt running the alternator/water pump. If so, this belt may be slipping since it was designed to have two belts.
I would try to restore the belt configuration to original. Make sure all the bushings are good so the pulleys line up. I couldn't find any torque specs in my Haynes manual but I just make sure they're good & tight without trying to bust them off.
As far as the wiring is concerned, I am having trouble understanding what you are talking about. I think that my alternator had simple loop connectors that are crimped on the wires. Maybe you could post a pic?
Last edited by act1292; 10-22-2012 at 07:54 AM.
#3
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