hey guys. Ive been looking for someone who has done this before and i was unsuccessful, so im going to bite the bullet and try it myself. I found a donor car in the yard and pulled all the parts. Im going to set up as a step by step instruction to remove and install this factory option. I will include pics and everything.

I hope this benefits some fellow 240ers

steve

 

Awesome. I'm already looking forward to it.
I'd love to have Cruise Control in my car... of course I'd love to have a 4th gear too... Atleast that will happen soon =)

 

There is a kit you can buy from Volvo (that does not include everything you'll need), I think its 200 bucks. It has the stalk, cable harness, servo cylinder, retardation senor control unit, pedals switches and the valve. You can pull it all off a junker too.

Basically you take apart the steering wheel and column to do the stalk. Pull your current pedal box to replace with the cruise control pedal box. Run the wires from to the cruise control unit. Which will have to wired to your ECU and tranny if its auto. Also you'l need a speedo that was made for cruise control. You'll have to power the unit off ACC. You'll want to have your complete dash out to make this easier. Then from the control unit to a retardation switch and the valve and what not. Then you have to hook the valve vacuum control system to a rather large diameter nipple on your intake (you'll need that intake from a car that had cruise control, cus well all yours are taken up. Then the cable will need hooked up which will require a spool from a cruise control car.

It's a pretty big pain in the *** for something that you can buy a $90 aftermarket kit that will do the job better and be much easier for you to install. and if you want to make it look factory you can get a stalk and change the way its wired so you can use it to run the after market unit. Which will have a magnet and a speed sensor to put on your tail shaft.

 

im thinking of a much easier plan. I found an 88 wagon and all i did was start with the column switch. And worked my way backwards from there.
I followed the harness down and unclipped all the wires with the factory clips. The only connetions were really fused power from the top fuse terminal, ground, ont to the brake switch, and the harness to the brain. There was no hook up to the trans. The harness was very small and only under the driver side of the dash. There were three wires in this harness that left this area and went through the fire wall to the engine bay where they went to a box that was located right behind the valve cover on the firewall. This was attached to the vaccume lines that split with a "t" from the line that opperates the heater valves.
I just simply unhooked the hose under the dash and removed the stalk, harness, and the vaccume lines from under the dash. There was also the actuator which only has a vaccume line coming into in and the wire coming out which goes to the throttle.

It is much simplier than that, I cant see any reason you need to buy one of those kits. This seems pretty complete and fail proof.

Plus it only cost me $30 and an hour in the yard. We will see how long the install takes in my 92 when i get home in 2 weeks.