When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm not Volvo-astute; are the LH 2.5/3.1 engine displacements?
That's the version of the Bosch LH fuel injection system used for the fuel system.
240 Volvos came with 4) engines. For 1975 the 4 cyl iron block and head engine was used from the 140 series car, 1976 was a B21, 2.1 liters, B23 was next 2.3 liters, then the b230 - same size improved design. Can't remember what year they slapped a turbo on, Maybe 1981?, I had a 1981 turbo and it was not intercooled from the factory, but Volvo offered a kit
Unplug it and use a screwdriver to pry the cover off - examine the solder joints with a magnifying glass - look closely at the joints that go to the electro magnet coils for the two relays - the cracks are seen as little fuzzy lines all the way around posts sticking through the circuit board. You can resolder them if you have a small solder pencil/gun. Also make sure the spade connectors are not melted - from the heat of a poor connection.
That relay is used in many Volvos - and had no problem getting them , they were a stocked item.
I risked going outside [98F] and melting like a snowman, and checked the 240's spare parts inventory, i.e. the shallow shelf under the trunk floor.
The owner has 2 Jetronic computers and a bag of relays there. Several of them are white, rectangular [vs square], with six pins:
_ _ _
_ _ _
Are those likely the ones? I ask because I removed the kick panel on the passenger side, looked in, and could not see the relay.
By that time, my glasses were sliding off and fogging and I was too PO'ed to crawl deeper.
OB aka often befuddled, he it's hot like 105°F outside at 10am, so my garage is at least 120°, slipping around on pleather is nasty to say the least, the struggle is real. The pic I shared is it just the relay hanging on the slack so it's got a clip with barbs ( tetnus trap) on it holding it up behind the glove box if not attached to your ecu.
But unlike Vegas, the RH here is about 110%.
Why the 3rd grader next door jumped in the pool to dry off!
Renault: What in heaven’s name brought you to Casablanca?
Rick: My health, I came to Casablanca for the waters.
Renault: The waters? What waters? We’re in the desert.
Rick: I was misinformed.
I'll look for the relay location tomorrow.
Meanwhile, a question. The schematic from Dave's Volvo page https://www.240turbo.com/240-1986-Fuse-Panelmed.jpg
shows Fuse #4 going from the relay to the tank pump; and #6 battery feed to main pump.
But then what switches the main pump?
(I thought the dashboard relay controlled both pumps....)
a late 1993 is a fair bit different than a 1986, so careful with those wiring diagrams. in fact that fuse 6 thing, thats not correct for an LH injection car, maybe for a world market car with a different fueling system.... yeah, thats how the CIS cars were wired, but the US switched to LH injection in 1983 or so.
But, indeed, the one fuel system relay controls both pumps... On a LATE 1993, the power from the battery + goes to the "P" fuse on that quad fuse thing by the battery, from there a red wire goes directly to the fuel pump relay (and that red wire also branches off to a few more places). the fuel pump output of the fuel system relay is yellow/red, and forks, one Y-R wire goes directly to the main pump, while the other goes to fuse 4, and fuse 4 powers the tank pump (also Y-R), and the OX sensor heater.
on the1986 diagram for LH 2.2 injection, there is a fuse near the battery for the fuel system, but not that quad fuse block... this fuse provides the power to the fuel system relay, and the rest of what I said above is pretty much the same.
Haha hot and sticky, not fun. 2nd home in the Philippines come to Vegas to dry off. At a closer look I see fuses 6&7 in that diagram. But the jumping fuses is just limp home mode.
83-93 Bentley, Volvo 240 Service Manual Fuel trouble shooting and diagnostics
the fuel pump output of the fuel system relay is yellow/red, and forks, one Y-R wire goes directly to the main pump, while the other goes to fuse 4, and fuse 4 powers the tank pump (also Y-R), and the OX sensor heater.
So it sounds like I can pull Fuse 4, and jumper +12 to one side & start the inline pump
or
power the other side of Fuse 4 and test the tank pump.
Results? I'll record my fualt pump prior to removal and the installed new used see if it repair the issue, Still have the BOSCH PUMP NEW OE as fail safe
I got 2 more relays at the pic a part yesterday, Pic a part dropped a 91 240 wagon in the yard for my Birthday!🤣Huge cart full of parts $180 including $30 warranty on the fuel pump. Pump and filter all shiny, copper crush rings like knew, pr front Charcoal cloth seat 50/50, Instrument panel, Speedo broken 25 tooth gear, odom/trip odom drive spring missing easy fix when Ace hardware opens, lower fairing, front turn signals, L lens only, same Headlamp lens, needs polishing. Front bumper trim both corners, tailgate lock/key, dash black/chrome trim, A.C. pressure sensor, Fist full plastic clips, chips, chains and whips!😩108° smoked, heat exhuastion, be about 3 days before I can get back, hope I can fill up another cart. Any request? Lol. 91 240 Auto pic a part 21 July 2020 Las Vegas taking orders, like the Monsoon clouds, slicky😭. Dont leave "A/1" scrap! Side x side L my 93 @387K, Pic a Part R 91 @162k, repair replace, 25 tooth gear, trip reset, and red pin on missing fualt rest drive spring(making **** up), idk, missing spring make go round. Uhg.
Pic a part pump and filter
Last edited by 93240SW; Jul 22, 2020 at 10:55 AM.
Reason: Spell check
I replaced the relay, and now the in-line pump consistently runs for a few seconds pre-crank.
So yesterday we pulled the carpet etc off and got down to the tank pump connector.
12V but no pump current (used an ammeter...) and no noise.
So we're off to FCP & friends for a new pump/sender. Have to make a spanner wrench.
ps: we resoldered the old relay and it's back in the spares.
I always used 2 medium length screwdrivers to twist the sending unit loose. Make an X with the screwdrivers, place the tips in the cut out in the top of the sender and twist - worked every time.
Replacing the relay got us consistent pre-crank pump action. We also fixed the soldering on the original relay.
But we also found the in-tank pump has gone to a better place. Tested it at the pump connector.
We read cleanflametrap's page and see the Airtex E8778 pump he mentioned is still available. But we were wondering if someone sells a sender+pump package we should use instead. The owner prefers that approach if available.
Pro Parts, sometimes Pro Parts of Sweden, is a reboxer of mostly generic asian bits. that 'kit' is just a generic fuel sender, plus a generic pump, plus a generic fuel sock.
I find IPD USA and FCP Euro tend to sell consistently better grade parts as they both are Volvo specialists (although both have since branched out to other makes), places like AutohausAZ tend to sell whatever is cheapest they can find, and tend to carry everything for every make and really not know anything about old Volvos or any other specific makes.