240 no start. Is my coil wires right?

Old Sep 17, 2015 | 10:18 AM
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Default 240 no start. Is my coil wires right?

I acquired a mess and I'm trying to get this back together and running.
No spark and I want to confirm this coil is connected right. I've searched for close up pictures or a wiring diagram with colors and turned up nothing.
Any help would be appreciated

 
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Old Sep 17, 2015 | 10:26 AM
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Also not sure why they added a fuse to that wire.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2015 | 01:51 PM
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Last thing.. If the wires are cross can it burn up ign module or coil?
 
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Old Sep 17, 2015 | 04:41 PM
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The plus side of the coil, or terminal 15 gets battery voltage. The negative side of the coil gets signal from ignition module. And another wire for the tach.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2015 | 06:40 PM
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that fuse is replacing the original fuel injection fuse, the stock fuse holders crumble and corrode after 20 years.

what year 240 is this? from around 83(?) to 88, they used LH 2.2 and had a 'chrysler' ICU (Ignition Control Unit), from 1989 to end of production, they used LH 2.4 injection and EZ116K bosch ignition. The Bosch EZ116K igntion uses a seperate ignition power module, while the Chrysler system fired the coil directly from the ICU.

either way, the wire to pin 15 of the coil should be powered when the ignition is switched on. There are typically two wires to pin 1 of the coil, one from the ICU or Power Module, and the other to the tachometer.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2015 | 06:47 PM
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It's a 92.
Thanks for help.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2015 | 08:25 PM
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I found a guy and asked him to let me look under his hood.
Got spark now. Don't think I have fuel now.

But then I noticed his fuel pump primes and shuts off.
Mine just keeps running and I don't think the injectors are firing.

My next question is...do the Injectors fire all at once? Because These injector plugs aren't labeled and you basically have 2 long and 2 short which I tried them both ways and didn't make a difference.
I'll have to break out the volt meter tomorrow and get a fresh start on with some day light.

Thanks for you help this far
Back to googling
 
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 07:47 AM
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Yes, the injectors all fire at once.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 09:11 AM
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Managed to check a few things before work.
I have power to the injectors.
The plugs don't look wet.
I grounded the 2 injector grounds and valve cover ground.
Check to see if both fuel pumps are running and they are.
The underbody one is loud.
I can feel fuel flowing to the rail.

Going to do some more reading on lunch.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 12:16 PM
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injector grounds? you mean the ground wires on the fuel rail cover? the injectors themselves aren't wired to ground, they are 'grounded' selectively by the ECU to fire them.

a 92 is LH2.4, the whole thing runs off timing pulses from the CPS (Crank Position Sensor). This is connected to the ICU (Ignition Control Unit) which is, I believe, behind the glovebox, the ICU uses the timing pulses to know when to fire the spark via the power module. The ICU also provides timing pulses to the ECU (fuel injection control unit), which is located near the right side door lower hinge. the ECU provides the pulses that fire the fuel injection, where the pulse width is determined by coolant temperature, mass air flow sensor reading, etc.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 12:34 PM
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Yes. The fuel Rail grounds. Sorry there.

Just grabbed a can of starting fluid. Going to see if it will at least fire up before I start the next round of pulling my hair out.

I haven't put coolant In it yet. That wouldn't effect the temp sensor would it?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 12:49 PM
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its gonna read cold, which tells it to retard the timing and run rich, normal starting conditions for most any engine. if/when it does fire, and you've got no coolant in it, shut it down immediately as the heat builds up in the head really fast.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2015 | 06:07 PM
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Well I have power at both terminals on the injectors.

Scratching my head now.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2015 | 10:55 AM
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It runs on starting fluid.
 
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