I have a 91 240. It starts right up and whe I put it in drive I can drive around for about a minute and everything seems fine. After that it will stall. After it stalls, I put it in park and it will start back up again, but when I put it into drive, it immediately stalls. It will stay running all day long if I have it in drive though.

If I let it sit for awhile, the whole process starts over. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Thomas

 

On a side note, I have a friend who thinks it is the throttle positiioning sensor (TPS)

 

You can test it with a multimeter and you should hear a faint click within a degree or two of throttle plate movement.

Cleaning my throttle body eliminated my TPS-like symptoms.

 

Actually, I don't have a multimeter, if I did, I wouldn't even know how to test it. I was just gonna buy a new TPS

 

Before you start spending money have you checked the codes?

 

The codes? I have no idea what you are talking about.

 

The ODB diagnostics codes that you pull from the computer. (I'm getting used to troubleshooting by hand as I don't have the luxury of ODB. XD)

 

I don't either. Trying to fix it myself.

 

It's this little thing...


Open the hood, and go to the hood hinge to the driver's left, battery side.

behind a hub with a plug on it, where the wheel spring and all are below, you should see a little black box.

Pop the cover off, and you should see a little wire with a pin on it.

Follow this:
1. Diagnostic Test Mode 1: Fault Code Retrieval

Place the cable into socket 2 (LH2.4/Regina/Motronic 1.8fuel injection test) or 6 (EZK116 or REX1 ignition test) as above
Turn the ignition ON to KPII without starting the engine
Select Mode 1 by pressing the button once and holding for more than 1 second but less than 3 seconds
The LED lamp will flash in successive series of three digits followed by a three-second pause. If there are no fault codes stored, it will flash 1-1-1 indicating the fuel injection system is operating correctly. (If nothing flashes, see No Code.)
Count the successive flashes and record the fault code.
Press the button again.
Record the fault code. If it is the same as the previous one, then no additional codes are stored. Repeat until all the codes stored are retrieved (maximum of three.)
Refer to Table 1 for the interpretation of fault codes from the LH2.4 Fuel injection System and Table 2 for codes from the EZK 116 Ignition System.
Move the cable into socket 6 (for ignition codes from EZK116 or REX1) or socket 2 (for fuel injection codes from LH2.4/Regina) and repeat the above.


Then refer to the table for the code readouts in the latter part of this article. Engine and OBD Diagnostic Codes

 

Could have some poor ground connections on the battery or fuel pump that are irritated when you stop.
Could have a faulty or dirty IAC as well, which is what I think you have because it only happens when you're idling from higher speeds.
Engine Tune and Performance

Ignore the radio suppression relay, you don't have one.

 

Burn stain,
1. What is the name of that cable that I have to buy?
2. What is a IAC?
3. Not sure what a radio suppression relay is. Do I have a throttle position sensor?

Thanks for your help!

 

Thom you have a long up hill road to go here. I would suggest that you read the suggested info on how to read the codes and then do it. Once you see if and what the codes are you will better be able to see what component needs to be replaced. You sound like you need a little education first and then we'll be able to help you.

 

1. Hold up, you may not have to buy anything. It's the RPM sensor, but the symptoms of those going bad are not like you described.
2. Idle Air Control valve. Might be dirty, which can result in stalling from higher speeds to lower speeds.
3. Forget the radio suppression relay, you don't have one.
You have a Throttle Position Sensor though.

 

BurnStain,

So you think I should buy and replace the RPM sensor? What is that exactly? and where is the location exactly?

Thanks for your help.

 

So what codes did you get? Did you figure out how to find them?

 

I haven't done the codes yet. I'm not sure what the cable is that I need to check the codes. Once I find this and purchase it, myself or a friend can do it. I have a couple of friends that are mechanics but not very familiar with Volvo's that can figure it out from the instructions given on this thread.

I do see one error tha I typed when I first started this thread. In the very first post I said "It will stay running all day long if I have it in drive though.".

This is incorrect. It will run all day long in park. When I put it in drive, it will stall.

Here is exactly what it is doing:

A couple of days ago I ordered a pizza which is about 3/10ths of a mile down the street. I started up the car and drove down there without any problems. I picked up the pizza, went out to the car and started it up and when I put it in reverse it stalled. It did this a couple of times. Luckily there was nobody in front of me and I was able to put it in drive and I went about a block and it stalled. From then on it kept on stalling if I put it in reverse or in drive. I ended up sitting there for about 10 to 15 minutes and then I started it up and drove home. When I got home, it stalled again just before I got to my driveway.

 

You don't need a cable to check the codes! You don't need to purchase anything to check codes on a pre obd-II volvo.

That being said, being familiar with the processes involved in checking the codes and/or the sensors is a NECESSITY before you go on. If you don't have any inkling of how to do these very simple things there are SEVERAL resources on this site that will either explain the process, or direct you to a resource that will explain with a link to another site.

There's a lot of information online about these cars and it is surprisingly easy to find, but you need to seek it out to actually find it.

There are a lot of experienced mechanics and knowledgable DIY'ers on here that can give you "it could be" scenarios, but you have to have the ability to verify and diagnose these things to be effective.

The worst thing you can do is just make a list of parts that you heard on a forum and throw them at the car in a "hail mary" pass hoping it fixes it. The advice given here is to point you in the right direction, and by no means should be considered a full diagnosis of your symptoms.

On a similar note WebMD doesn't make people doctors, but it is a place to get advice about medical questions. If you do have a medical emergency, please see a doctor.

 

Thanks pooky. So my 91 240 is pre OBD-II?

I will try to find a link on what I need to read them.

 

Burn Stains post #9 in this thread tells you how to check the codes. Just read it and follow the instructions.

 

Yeah, I saw that post. At the beginning of the post it says "Place the cable into socket 2".

Is that cable something I have to purchase or is it already there?