Hi guys, there's spark in cylinder one. it cranks over but doesn't go all the way to start and idle. had rough idle issue before this but was running fine. Removed MAF sensor to clean it before this, put it back and it ran but the next day it doesn't want to start. not sure where to begin.




thanks for any help...

 

A bit more background...I picked it up 3 days ago and drove it for 500kms, idle rough, ran quite rich but runs ok and got me home in 7 hrs of driving. Next day decided to clean air filter and MAF sensor. MAF was very dirty. cleaned and put it back on and then it started to idle rough but drove for 1-2km. And next morning it won't start.

I had error 113, 221 and 212 from OBD1 which i think has always been an issue before i picked up the car. Tried adjusting timing through the dizzie, moved it from one end to another but the not much improvement and it keep cranking but won't start or idle. I tried removing maf sensor wire, and it started very rough, idle for a 5 secs and stalled.

 

I may have had similar problem.....
I trouble shot everything U could. My problems were similar to yours. It would start, then it wouldn't start, then when driving the engine would get rough and sometimes shut off in traffic. I popped off the cover of the fuel pump relay and while wearing latex gloves I squeezed the fuel pump relay contacts together and 240 would start or restart almost every time. I even went so far as to solder wire leads to my relay and lead them to a switch on my dash and I would flick the switch to turn on (override) the fuel pump relay. Did that for a year.... Finally, I found out that my crankshaft sensor was bad. Worse than bad, because it was intermittent. That's bad because it would work then 2 minutes later not work.
It couldn't hurt to replace it to help with figuring out your problem.
I have another post that explains it also. I have a trouble free 240DL now and very happy. But, caveat, my suggestion may not be your fix..
... there is alot going on under the Volvo hood.

 

You didn't mention the year of your car but since it has the OBD port it is safe to assume that it is post '89 and more than likely has the LH 2.4 fuel injection systems. There are three very common things on these cars that can cause a no-start condition:

1) The 25 amp fuse mounted on the inside of the driver's side (US) fender. If you have a '93 model then it was moved for that year. Rain and snow trickle down into this fuse and can cause bad connections
2) Fuel pump relay (as bejingie said). They tend to develop cracks in the solder joints. You can re-solder them if you have a soldering iron or pick up a replacement relay. However, it would be best to troubleshoot it first. Check out this site: In the Tank - 240 Volvo Tank Pump and Sender It describes how to check out each fuel pump. If you jumper the fuses like it describes and the car starts when they are jumpered, then your fuel pump relay is more than likely the culprit
3) Crank position sensor has gone bad. I don't know how to test it other than inspecting it. It is a fat black wire that goes from a connector on the firewall down to the sensor on the top of the bell housing where the engine and transmission meet. If this wire is cracked and has flaking insulation then it is probably going bad and should be replaced. If wiggling this wire gets it to start then you have confirmed the problem.

This list is by no means all that could be causing the no-start but the most common causes. If you have an '89 then there is also the possibility of having a faulty ECU. The fuel relay test I mentioned will help pinpoint it.

Given you have codes and running rich (limp or open loop mode) point to other problems that should be addressed as well.

BTW - the timing is set by the computer. Moving the distributor has no effect on the timing. With cylinder 1 at TDC the rotor should point to the cylinder 1 spark plug wire.

 

I am a tinkerer, while act1292 appears to be an expert. act1292 gives great advice above. What I did worked on my 1990 245DL.

 

Thanks Act1292 and Benjigie...i was not wrong about volvo owners...Ok so these are very good leads for me to start hunting down the culprit. It is a Volvo 1989 240GL wagon. This morning I turn the key on and I didn't hear the fuel pump buzzing or priming...I will look into that first. Someone said to try to put a bit of fuel on the air filter, is this advisable? Also I did cleaned the MAF sensor. If I remove the electric supply to the MAF sensor to eliminate the issue and assuming I fixed the fuel supply issue, would the car start at least?

Also with bad/missing O2 sensor reading - will it affect the car starting up at all?

thanks again guys.

 

I got some more diagnostic work done this afternoon. I did the test you gave you, short the fuse and i can the fuel pump buzzing, supposed fuel is supplying? I can't locate the fuel pump relay anywhere under the glove compartment or driver side. Does it matter now that I know the pumps are working? I also saw sparks from all 4 plugs - so spark probably isn't the problem. The last thing I did was undo the MAF and cleaned it. I did unplug the MAF sensor and tried the OBD1 test - it showed 121 which indicated MAF is missing. I reconnect MAF and reset all codes by disconnecting the battery - the code shows 111 - indicating MAF not detected as missing. Would it be right to say the MAF is working? Also removing the hose going into the intake, I can see that it's bleeding and it smell of fuel. Every time I crank it, the intake has smoke coming out sounding like misfiring somewhere. Have not test the crank position sensor but all fuse looks OK.

thanks again.

 

The fuel pumps should run for approximately a second and then shut off when you turn the key to the II position. If they don't but they do run when you jumper them, then the culprit is more than likely your fuel pump relay. However, since you have an '89, it could be your ECU as many '89s came with the infamous "pink label" ECU which had a fuel pump circuit that would fail. I would start by checking out the fuel pump relay. Search this site. There are multiple threads relating to electrical testing the fuel pump relay. Also Google Volvo 240 Pink Label ECU to learn about the problems with that particular ECU. It can be replaced by a later one that doesn't suffer the same problem.

The car should still start/run with those codes. With the MAF disconnected (don't disconnect it while the key is on), it should start and run in limp home mode. In this mode it is in open loop meaning it isn't using the feedback from the oxygen sensor to adjust the fuel trim. It will run very rich in this sort of mode.

 

So after several more times meddling...I've found the culprit...I hope. Removed the air intake hose going into throttle body and sprayed it with fuel and it started ok, rough but it started. Took out the fuel line and started the car and saw fuel coming out of it so we know it's not the pump nor the relay. Used the OBD1 test No.3 on the injectors and felt 3 of the injectors are not vibrating. Just 1 injector has vibration. Took the fuel rail and injectors out and sent it to a specialist to test and refurbish and hope it can be salvaged/repaired. Waiting for them to let me know. Hopefully that's the only issue.

Will update.

 

With your advice...I managed to narrow it down to injectors. 3 of them were not firing and have removed them and sent it for testing and repair. Hoping to put them back in tomorrow. Will update. Really appreciate your help thus far.

By the way...I managed to do compression test however the engine was cold..so unsure if these readings are usable:





175


190


169


160





I'm hoping that I got a pretty healthy b230f with a long life ahead?

 

Got the injectors back today, put them back on and tested and i can see fuel being sprayed. I can see spark but car still won't start! I tested for compression before and they are good. So I have air, spark, fuel, compression and moved the dizzie around but it doesn't do much when you crank it and won't start. Hate to meddle with the ECU. Overall it's been a difficult journey.

 

When you tested the injectors, were you cranking the engine or were you jumpering the fuses to get the fuel pumps to run? Since it runs when you sprayed fuel directly into the intake then most likely it is a fuel delivery issue. Have you tried starting the engine with the fuses jumpered?

Also, like I said in an earlier post, moving the distributor does nothing to change timing. The timing is controlled by the computer.

 

Hi Act, thank goodness you are checking on my progress.

Once I got the injectors back from the specialists who has tested it and said it is working fine I plugged everything back but I did not insert the 4 injectors into the manifold. I earthed it and then crank the engine. I saw the fuel being sprayed on all 4 injectors every time I crank it. I did this at least 2-3 times. I also looked at the TPS as you have pointed out. It looked pretty new to me as if someone has already replaced it. It doesn't look like a 30year TPS. Isulation for the wires look good too. However when I crank the car, I can't see my RPM moving to 200rpm. Could this indicate a bad TPS?

Should I still jump the fuel pump fuse? What else can I check? Should I test the TPS in a another way?

 

While the below video isn't the clearest, it does show a good way to test the TPS.


200 RPMs on start is fine. If you have the gear reduction starter, 200 RPMs is about where the engine would be spinning to start the car. Also do not keep cranking the starter without letting it rest, as it will over heat the starter and then you will need a new starter

 

Thanks mate, I will give this a try as well. Act said something about the crankshaft sensor could also fail. I did try to look at the RPM needle which didn't really move when i crank it...it sort of move a little but it was more due to the vibration of the car/engine rather than the needle moving to 200rpm when it is being cranked. It was no where near 200 mark.

So checked the crank sensor cable and it looks quite new - looks like someone before me has it replaced. Wire insulation is still good. Am I right to suspect it's the crank sensor?

thanks as ever.

 

Sure. If the signal is incorrect, it might not fire off the injectors correctly. I might have an ECU that might work if you think it will help.

 

I have been out of town, so I read all above to catch up.
Two questions.
1. How did the TPS get involved? Maybe I missed someone's post, but the only sensor that I know mentioned was the crankshaft sensor and I don't see where you checked it yet.
2. Did you check the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail? I know your injector spray test should mean the pressure is correct, but one time my Volvo would not run because of this $20 item.

 

Welcome back! Good to have more help here.

Sorry I didn't mean to say TPS, i was actually saying CSS or crankshaft sensor. I did checked the CSS yesterday. The RPM didn't move when I crank the engine. This particular sensor looks quite new, seems someone else replaced it before. However I can see spark and fuel being sprayed out of the refurbished injectors when I tested the car last night here in NZ. Is it worth replacing the CSS? Or should I look at other issues? ECU was mentioned by Act before and mine has pink label.

I didn't or haven't tested the TPS in anyway. Should I do that?

Fuel regulator, I'll find a new part and try to replace it if it's that cheap/inexpensive. I'll try to get a starting fluid today and test it again when I get home to see if it will start. So this way we can eliminate it to be fuel related.

 

Actually I am looking at ECU to replace the pink label one that is in the car as that was one of the item that was highlighted by Act in this thread. Whereabouts are you?

 

in Volvo land, its the crank position sensor, or CPS, used on 1989+ LH 2.4 systems (1990+ turbos).