A failure of the pink label ECU would keep the fuel pumps from running. Since you are getting fuel to the rail when cranking without jumpering the fuses then I doubt it is your ECU. If you aren't reading any RPM when cranking, then it sounds like an ignition problem - yet that doesn't concur with your earlier statement where you said it fired up when you sprayed fuel into the throttle body. No RPMs means no pulses to the coil as the tachometer signal is taken right from the red/white wire coming off of the coil.

Try this simple test - with the key in the II position, measure the voltage on the small poles of the coil - one of them should be at 12V. If you have 12V, pull the center wire from the coil and hold it close to a ground (keep away from any fuel). Crank the engine to see if you have spark. If you do then you have spark then I doubt it is the crank position sensor.

There is a couple of questions I asked earlier and I don't see any answers:

1) Do you hear the pumps run when you turn the key to the II position. An earlier post of yours says you didn't think so but were going to check. Did you confirm?
2) Does it run if you crank the engine while jumpering the fuses?

 

Florida, Tampa area.

 

I believe I have a yellow 554.

 

Hi Act...yes pumps run whenever it's on Pos II. And when I jumped the fuses, same issue when cranking.

Now that you've mentioned coil..i tested that..and saw it was good 12v voltage and i did saw spark from the coil. So got me to think about the spark plug again.
Took cyclinder out and looked wet. I replaced it with a spare one and tried cranking it again and suddenly it wants to come to life!! It started for a second. Felt very encouraged, I took the other 3 and they were all rubbish, wet and black etc. Replaced them with some spare ones but not meant for this engine and boomz! it started and sounded (to me) really really good. I am over the moon. Actually last night my wife told me it's the plugs and i told her...just stick to cooking woman! She's laughing at me now.

Thanks so much guys...i would have been way lost. I've always played with carbs but never dealt with injectors and sensors...so this is a very good learning experience. will post video of the idling. I still have grey/black smoke out of the exhaust which i think it is running rich. No error code anymore from OBD1 though. So that needs sorting. I'm changing the oil first (it smells of petrol), put new and correct plugs, change air filter, change oil filter and then see how it goes.

thx everyone and if you got any tips on running rich, do send it my way...

 

It's running now...but does it sound good to you?

 

Sounds like it runs normal but with a high idle. Check your throttle position switch (yes, TPS this time ). Make sure it clicks and the throttle plate is closed when the throttle is at idle position.

Run it a few days. I expect that you will have codes thrown. Running rich can be from a bad AMM - when it fails the ECU goes into a limp home mode which is basically using a pre-determined fuel map which is pretty rich. A bad or disconnected oxygen sensor can do the cause the same problem. Both of these problems will throw a code.

Check for any leaks in the black tubing that runs between the AMM and the throttle body - including the idle air controller. Leaks there can lead to poor idling and surging at idle. Any exhaust leaks anywhere between the head and the oxygen sensor can also cause rich-running conditions. You can check for these type of leaks using a piece of hose as a stethoscope. Just put one end in your ear and move the other end around any joints where exhaust can leak out. It is pretty obvious when you come across a leak.

 

with all accessories off, engine warmed up, and idle air controller (IAC) discconnected, it should idle on the slow side, like 500 RPM. the IAC should boost this up to about 700. without the IAC, it likely will stumble and stall when things like AC kick on, with it, it compensates.

 

Hello guys...sorry been away over the weekends. Been driving the 240...loving it...engine to me runs well after it had new oil and filter. starts and cold idle pretty well too. I can't say if it's rich or not after I've removed O2 sensor and had that cleaned. The only error code left is 212 which is 02 sensor missing, I did forget to reconnect the o2 wires which is why I guess the 212 came up. I fixed that and drove it again but still had 212. Maybe I need to disconnect the battery and reset everything and try again - haven't done that yet. Once I've cleared O2 sensor code, I will then move to the TPS/IAC. So far no leaks that I can hear and I don't have running rich code anymore or any other codes for that matter, just 212.

One way or another I will get to the point where there are no codes anymore. For now, it'll start serving its new life as my daily driver.

I've also ordered new ball joint as it squeaks very badly every time you get in and out of the car and even during steering and small humps. Next is the driveshaft centre bearing, it moves a lot when. Perhaps because the springs/shocks are so soft and it rides like a boat, the shakes are negated somehow. So that's something I need to look at soon. Next project is coils and shocks and bushings.

Finally it's summer here in NZ and I may need to look into the A/C at some point.

Will update again on the running rich issue once I get to clear/reset the code, go for a drive and see what happens. There's less black smoke and less petrol smell coming into the car. So there's hope.


have a great week.

Anyway...

 

the O2 sensor is a consumable item, that needs replacing about every 60-80K miles. if its shot, cleaning it isn't likely going to help.

 

Hi Pierce, how's it going? You know what what you said about o2 sensor being a consumable saved me another heartache. So aside from replacing plugs and servicing injectors, the brick ran very well. Drove it to work and it was smooth.

And after while it started to develop idle issue and stalled. It still had this unburnt fuel smell too. So I took the plunge and got me a new O2 sensor and boom - it now purrs like contented kitten.

Even after I cleaned the o2 sensor thoroughly, there was no way of salvaging it which is why when you said it's consumable I figured really needs replacing. So thanks for that and true enough the high F/C and bad idling and wet plugs were all due to O2 sensor.

I know understand the IAC much better, so thanks for that too, that saved me time for googling what it does.

I might take it for a drive and see what else needs doing. After replacing O2 and reseting the ECU, it shows me 1-1-1 after about 5km of driving. I assume everything is in order - I hope. Hoping to also improve my FC too.

Next big job is the overhaul of all bushes underneath the car and replace shocks and ball joint. The shocks at the rear are terrible, floats like a boat. And the balljoint creaks like hungry rat. Now that the engine is running well and I can say I roughly understand how injected engine works, I can take the plunge and go further and fix her.

So thanks very much for everyone's help so far. Great way to learn.

 

Glad to hear you got it all sorted. It's a nice feeling when you see the 1-1-1 codes come up.