25 amp fuse wiring -83 244
#1
25 amp fuse wiring -83 244
Hi there,
Does anybody have a picture of where the wires going to this fuse are coming and going from?
I have an 83 244 that I bought with no spark or fuel and I've narrowed down at least one of its issue is this fuse. On my car, I have random wires laying over by the fuse holder but nothing is running to it. Furthermore, there is no fuse but a piece of wire jumping the two sides. I planned on getting a waterproof fuse holder but I needed to get an idea of what wires should be running to it.
Thanks
Does anybody have a picture of where the wires going to this fuse are coming and going from?
I have an 83 244 that I bought with no spark or fuel and I've narrowed down at least one of its issue is this fuse. On my car, I have random wires laying over by the fuse holder but nothing is running to it. Furthermore, there is no fuse but a piece of wire jumping the two sides. I planned on getting a waterproof fuse holder but I needed to get an idea of what wires should be running to it.
Thanks
#2
one end goes directly to the battery, the other end goes to the fuel system relay which is below the glovebox and behind the dashboard, pin 30, at least on the later cars. I don't have diagrams for 81-83
ok, in 84 LH used two relays, and it goes to pin 30 on both of them, as well as pin 86 on the 'main' relay. all red wires. these dual relays are also below the glovebox, side by side.
ok, in 84 LH used two relays, and it goes to pin 30 on both of them, as well as pin 86 on the 'main' relay. all red wires. these dual relays are also below the glovebox, side by side.
#3
one end goes directly to the battery, the other end goes to the fuel system relay which is below the glovebox and behind the dashboard, pin 30, at least on the later cars. I don't have diagrams for 81-83
ok, in 84 LH used two relays, and it goes to pin 30 on both of them, as well as pin 86 on the 'main' relay. all red wires. these dual relays are also below the glovebox, side by side.
ok, in 84 LH used two relays, and it goes to pin 30 on both of them, as well as pin 86 on the 'main' relay. all red wires. these dual relays are also below the glovebox, side by side.
#4
Ok a little progress! I got the 25 amp fuse and wired it in to the red power wire for ecu. When I turn the key now, I get a click from the fuel pump relay but when I go to turn it on it still just cranks with no fuel pumps running.
So power is going to the relays now and that is an improvement but no I need to find the next piece in getting spark.
Does anybody know what this larger red wire goes to? It was spliced into a smaller black wire and the under the motor I can see it goes to the larger red wire again.
So power is going to the relays now and that is an improvement but no I need to find the next piece in getting spark.
Does anybody know what this larger red wire goes to? It was spliced into a smaller black wire and the under the motor I can see it goes to the larger red wire again.
#5
the timing comes from a hall sensor in the base of the distributor, that provides a (small) impulse for each half turn of the engine... this goes to the ignition control unit, which amplifies adn cleans up the pulse, and forwards the stronger pulse to the ECU for the fuel injection timing. the ICU also calculates how much to advance or retard and sends an ignition signal to the coil to create spark.
#6
the timing comes from a hall sensor in the base of the distributor, that provides a (small) impulse for each half turn of the engine... this goes to the ignition control unit, which amplifies adn cleans up the pulse, and forwards the stronger pulse to the ECU for the fuel injection timing. the ICU also calculates how much to advance or retard and sends an ignition signal to the coil to create spark.
Thanks for the help
#7
I believe the hall sensor plate itself is a seperate part from the distributor.
I got most of my Volvo parts from https://fcpeuro.com, https://ipdusa.com, and for factory only stuff, https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/volvo
I got most of my Volvo parts from https://fcpeuro.com, https://ipdusa.com, and for factory only stuff, https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/volvo
#9
was ognna look up the PN's but there's a million different distributors listed in VADIS, the old parts catalog software.
does your distributor have a vacuum advance module on the side?
if not, and its volvo distributor 1336737, the sensor is 1346803, and wire housing 1346800. ubt, it might be unobtanium nowdays as a seperate part.
does your distributor have a vacuum advance module on the side?
if not, and its volvo distributor 1336737, the sensor is 1346803, and wire housing 1346800. ubt, it might be unobtanium nowdays as a seperate part.
#10
was ognna look up the PN's but there's a million different distributors listed in VADIS, the old parts catalog software.
does your distributor have a vacuum advance module on the side?
if not, and its volvo distributor 1336737, the sensor is 1346803, and wire housing 1346800. ubt, it might be unobtanium nowdays as a seperate part.
does your distributor have a vacuum advance module on the side?
if not, and its volvo distributor 1336737, the sensor is 1346803, and wire housing 1346800. ubt, it might be unobtanium nowdays as a seperate part.
A little background on the car is that I picked it up last week for $180 bucks and I'm trying to get it going for ice racing. Hopefully this year and not next although this car is living outside and it's getting chilly here fast.
#15
Just to recap, currently when I turn the key I get a click from the fuel pump relay but it doesnt run the pump. In theory, once timing is being sensed from the distributor I should have spark and run the pumps when cranking.
#16
first check the voltages on the outputs of the two relays.
1, the main relay, should come on with the ignition key and stay on.
2, the pump relay, should come on for about 1 second then go off til the car is cranked
each relay, the power input to the relay is pin 30, red wire, this should be always hot... if its not hot, then your 25A fuse isn't wired correctly as it goes directly to these two relays
each relay, the power output is pin 87. the main relay powers the ECU and the MAF, while the pump relay powers the fuel pumps, the IAV, and the injectors.
1, the main relay, should come on with the ignition key and stay on.
2, the pump relay, should come on for about 1 second then go off til the car is cranked
each relay, the power input to the relay is pin 30, red wire, this should be always hot... if its not hot, then your 25A fuse isn't wired correctly as it goes directly to these two relays
each relay, the power output is pin 87. the main relay powers the ECU and the MAF, while the pump relay powers the fuel pumps, the IAV, and the injectors.
#17
I dropped in a replacement remanned distributor today and it's the same symptoms.
Key on, click from the fuel pump relay, then no spark or fuel pumps running when cranking over.
Pierce - I just saw your last post and I need to check those relays closer. On an 83, is the main relay and the fuel pump in the glove box area? I can hear a click now after the 25 amp fuse from the glove box area now but I need to dig around and test those relays. Do my symptoms even sound like they could be relay related?
Thanks
Key on, click from the fuel pump relay, then no spark or fuel pumps running when cranking over.
Pierce - I just saw your last post and I need to check those relays closer. On an 83, is the main relay and the fuel pump in the glove box area? I can hear a click now after the 25 amp fuse from the glove box area now but I need to dig around and test those relays. Do my symptoms even sound like they could be relay related?
Thanks
#19
I pulled the relays and I guess I didn't realize they were both the same. Both are old (old enough to be from West Germany) and didn't have the best connections.
I tested for voltage on the black plug and I was getting 12v for pin 30 and that relay was clicking.
The white plug I tested it for voltage with the key on at pin 30 and it was only showing .35v and the relay wasn't clicking. I'm not quite sure if that's normal or not with just the key in the on position for that white plug.
Regardless, I'll buy new non crusty relays since they are cheap enough and I kind of destroyed one pulling it out anyway.
I tested for voltage on the black plug and I was getting 12v for pin 30 and that relay was clicking.
The white plug I tested it for voltage with the key on at pin 30 and it was only showing .35v and the relay wasn't clicking. I'm not quite sure if that's normal or not with just the key in the on position for that white plug.
Regardless, I'll buy new non crusty relays since they are cheap enough and I kind of destroyed one pulling it out anyway.
Last edited by jayg; 10-11-2018 at 10:30 PM.
#20