1982 244 stall in right turns going faster than 20 mph. we have replaced most of the fuel system from in-tank pump to the filter in the engine compartment. have also replaced the coil. Not sure what to do next. Any ideas or suggestions would be great. Thanks in advance!

 

Well that's a weird problem... Is this a real recent thing, or something that comes about in cold weather? I think that this car is older than the years with decomposable wire harness stuff. When it stalls is there anything else you can tell us about that? Does it sputter and die? Does it sound like it quit firing? Do the warning lights all come on? Anything else you can include may help. Does the car have any other troubles? Maybe it's the fuel pump relay and it can't hold on around corners (I don't think so). How long have you had the car and what's the mileage? Is the 20mph limit it or is it how hard you are cornering? Just some things to help us get more of an idea. As far as this being a common problem, I don't thing it is.

 

I was going to say don't turn right. Select a different route.

Have you check the power steering pump? With the car sitting at idle turn the wheel right until it stalls. Watch the engine as you are doing this. Is there any resistance in the steering? Also check the wiring that runs in or near the steering column.

 

Thanks for your interest. It is my son's car. The problem has been around quite a while. He has had the car about 8 months. Having a full tank seems to reduce the frequency. It has about 200k. the weather does not seem to affect it. It just cuts out, all the dash lights come on. sometimes it cut out for a few seconds, other times it dies completely and takes several minutes to start. We did replace the fuel pump relay also. It seems to be have more to do with the hard cornering, the harder the great stall effect. I really appreciate your input, thanks. Oh we are in the SF bay area, so it is not an extreme weather thing. Thanks again

 

Thanks. I did try running a high idle in the driveway and turning the wheel a few times. It did not stall or seem to have any effect. I will take another look. So far your first idea is the only thing that works.

 

I know it sounds weird, but after driving for 20 minutes or so, stop and check the transmission fluid, see how dark it is and how much there is of it.

 

Well it does sound weird, but I am willing to check it out. I will get back to you with what I find. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

I could have explained myself, but I was about to fall asleep! My thought is that since it happens while driving at that particular speed, maybe a gear isn't engaging properly and causing it to stall out. It couldn't hurt to drop the pan and change the fluid, who knows when it was last done.

Jeff

 

We checked the transmission fluid tonight. The level is just about where it should be. The fluid condition seems to be good. It was dark and we used a flashlight, it was pretty clear with a red tint. We will check again in daylight.
Also My original explanation was not very good.(in hurry). Basically if the speed is about 20mph or greater in a right turn, it starts the stalling. I think the centrifugal (i had to look up how to spell this) is pushing something where the motor/electrical is not happy. If you think of anything at all please let me know. I think persistence is the strong part of my limited mechanical skill.
Thanks!

 

By stalling are you saying the motor does not respond when you step on the gas or does it shut off completely (all dash lights come on) or does the car die completely. Does it restart by itself while you are driving. Nothing centrifugal happens here. You seem to be having an electrical problem which shorts out the ignition system . The right turn cause may be associated with the wiring in the steering column. When it stalls can you check voltage at the coil .

 

Two widely different things...1. The intank fuel pump has a rubber hose at the top that can disintegrate and suck air. The test is to keep the tank full (at least 3/4) and see if the symptoms go away. Also, early 240's had batteries that had the positive cable outboard and the negative inboard. If the battery is not secured, it can slide and ground the positive cable causing a bit of grief. Just a couple of things that come to mind. Later 240's reversed the battery configuration but honestly, if the battery is secured there is no issue.

 

It will sometimes stall completely and othertimes not respond and restart. It is an automatic, just in case that makes a difference. It only happens while the car is moving, so I am not quite sure how to check the coil voltage. I can try looking over the wiring in the steering column area. Hopefully that will turn something up. I will reply after we look and thanks for the input.

 

You may be on to something here, since it reduces the frequency of stalls when the tank is full. I will try pulling the intank pump again and looking at the hose. We will also double check the battery. I will post what we find. Thanks for your help.

 

Let's take it one at a time. You are driving down the road and the motor shuts off. Instrument lights are all on and you coast the car off the road where the engine is dead. True or false.

 

During idle in the driveway turn the the wheel full lock left and right several times, does it stall?

 

If you make a hard right turn this is true. If you turn right more slowly or not so hard it will stall and as you come out of the turn the engine will restart on it's own. Not exactly a black/white response sorry. Please stay with it. Thanks.

 

Same thing happened in our '88 244 (also during right turns). Ended up being a wiring harness issue. Break in a wire + centrifugal force = stalling at times.

Best regards,

Chris

 

So it shuts off and restarts without you touching the key. Tach goes to 0 and all lights come on.

 

We've been through 9 240s over the years, so I'm reacing back about 25 years into my failing memory on this. I can't even remember which Volvo was giving us the problem, but it was similar to this--quit on turns. After a lot of muddling around, I discovered the main connector to the control unit was loose and cut out on turns. I couldn't tighten it for some reason, can't remember why. What I do remember is the solution--I whittled a wedge out of a piece of cottonwood and tapped it in alongside the connector. Solved problem and that wedge was till in place a couple years later, when we sold the car.

 

I own an 86 240 DL wagon with the same problem.....I exit right on this particular freeway off ramp and you can only exit around 20 miles an hour.
EVERY FREAKING TIME (EVERYDAY) FOR 3 MONTHS the engine would completely stall, dash lights came on and engine game me the finger. Once in a magical while the engine would simply turn on again as the wagon straighten itself.....WHAAAT.? I had planed to replace the head gasket and did just that, along with outside fuel pump....problem went away......its been
8 months now.......BUT NOW MY CAR WANTS TO RUN OFF WHILE AT STOPLIGHTS.....RED LIGHT: FOOT ON BRAKE: ENGINE JUST SURGES AND BUCKS AS IF TELLING ME..."HEY,,i AM OLD AND CRUSTED I WILL DIE SOON, SO STEP ON IT YOU IMMIGRANT".....I don't know......