I arrive at a stoplight/sign and come to a full stop...the engine revs up and
wants to take off...foot on brake pedal.....as soon as I let go of the brake pedal it bucks off......DO I NEED TO CALL AN EXORCIST?

new fluids done about 8 months ago: trans filter too

now it drives bad: not a smooth drive but a jump in revs every so often as I am driving.

I noticed a clunk coming from the back/truck/axle area as I came to a hault or would shift from park to drive for the past 3 months.....but could drive with no problems.....?

 

I would guess an out of whack throttle position sensor. It should make a click right when the throttle plate is closed. If not, the car will not go into idle mode and the engine will run fast. The clunk is probably due to the engine racing and not going below the stall speed of the torque converter.

 

yes, the tps was from my local junk yard....I have a bag full of them...like candy...really....in my 1.5 years owning this brick I learned that you cant go without having a few extra relays/fuses. I will try another one.....thanks

 

Any time I hear of "clunks" in the rear when putting into gear, I always check my u-joints. Crawl under the car and check them using push/pull method on the drive shaft near each u-joint. Also try rotating it (car in park, parking brake on). There should be no sideways play or rotational play when you do this. If there is, you need to replace the u-joint. There are three of them on your car. Check all three.

 

Don't just try another TPS, make sure that it's adjusted right. If you know what I'm talking about and have already done this, ignore the rest. I just did not see you mention that you adjusted it. The sensor should just click when the throttle is closed. You can unplug it and check the con contacts. The middle pin is a common that goes to ground. The two outer pins are the contacts for either the closed throttle of wide open throttle positions. The closed throttle switch should make a clickly noise. Just make sure that it closes when the throttle plate is closed. If you have a multimeter this will help you test that part instead of just guessing. Good luck!

 

I replaced all my brake pads and the rev ing engine symptom stopped for two weeks...then its back on again......I don't know how to adjust the TPS....while on the freeway the engine miss fires periodically....but I might have multiple illnesses I think.

 

a sticky idle control valve might do this, too. ditto a flakey MAF, or a flakey engine temperature sensor (if the EFI thinks the engine is cold, it will turn on the cold start injector, making the engine run much richer and faster)

 

Next time it does this, put it in neutral, how high does the RPM go? is it steady high RPM, or does it bounce up and down?

 

hello everyone and thank you for responding....I changed the heads from a turbo model...and ever since my spark plugs seem to un screw themselves....bad threads maybe? or too much pressure? any who...I sold my lovely wagon. I got me a 79 242 DL 2 door sedan to work with now...800 bucks in San Diego..with an immense pile of dog hair inside of the car/trunk....there was an ax and red stains..but I didn't ask...no dents and a square inch of rust only...4speed sloth.

 

stripped sparkplug holes can be fixed with helicoils or time-serts. but if they were stripped, the plugs would tend to blow out, not 'come unscrewed', and when you went to put them in, they'd just keep turning.